New rotors not rotoring
11-08-2008, 09:08 AM
#51
New Member
Join Date: 04-01-2008
Location: Burton, MI
Posts: 16
My 2007 started shaking at 7K miles. It has 12K on it now and I was just about to jump into a new set of EBC rotors. My wifes 2008 has 12+K miles,,,no brake shake at all. I have a dial indicator and will check the runout on my front hubs and rotors. I will have the rotors turned and install a semi metallic set of pads. I'll keep you posted.
Well, I pulled the wheels off on Tuesday and attempted to set up my dial indicator. Not a lot of places available to mount a magnetic based dial indicator. I was a bit rushed for time so I pulled the rotors and headed to the machine shop. The rotors were mounted in an Ammco Lathe and the operator started the first cut. On the left rotor there were a series of missed spots by the bit on the back side of the rotor and on the front side about half of the rotor contacted the bit. The right rotor was a bit different. Again about half of the front side contacted the bit and the back side was pretty clean. The bit contacted the rotor all the way around. The operator made a second cut to clean up both rotors. Then he took a small orbital sander and put a swirl cut on the surface. I picked up a set of NAPA TruStop semi metallic pads (made in China. had to hold my nose during the purchase.) and put it back together. The brakes are perfect right now. All brake shudder is gone. I got a break on the pads and the total cost of this repair was roughly $46.00. I'll monitor their progress going forward and will be able to post more after the 26th. I'm retiring...
Well, I pulled the wheels off on Tuesday and attempted to set up my dial indicator. Not a lot of places available to mount a magnetic based dial indicator. I was a bit rushed for time so I pulled the rotors and headed to the machine shop. The rotors were mounted in an Ammco Lathe and the operator started the first cut. On the left rotor there were a series of missed spots by the bit on the back side of the rotor and on the front side about half of the rotor contacted the bit. The right rotor was a bit different. Again about half of the front side contacted the bit and the back side was pretty clean. The bit contacted the rotor all the way around. The operator made a second cut to clean up both rotors. Then he took a small orbital sander and put a swirl cut on the surface. I picked up a set of NAPA TruStop semi metallic pads (made in China. had to hold my nose during the purchase.) and put it back together. The brakes are perfect right now. All brake shudder is gone. I got a break on the pads and the total cost of this repair was roughly $46.00. I'll monitor their progress going forward and will be able to post more after the 26th. I'm retiring...
11-08-2008, 12:45 PM
#52
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-24-2006
Location: Bowling Green, OH
Posts: 2,315
I have the green pads with EBC rotors and have problem.
11-23-2008, 12:21 PM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-01-2006
Location: New London, CT USA
Posts: 2,507
Took it to a new garage. The ECB were the problem and had been since they were put on back in late July.
Put new AC Delco rotors and ceramic pads back on and all my shudder went away. Car stops without shudder or increased noise.
Guess I'll be writing to ECB.
The garage said they could spend time diagnosing via looking for runout, resurfacing, etc, or we could shotgun a new set on. I went for the latter since I' was fed up with the whole ordeal.
Now the car is a pleasure to drive except in the real cold since it has body mount noises that show up in the cold.
I guess I never should have wasted my money on the performance brakes, but I got caught up in the hype. They must work for some folks, but the added noise, braking vibrations and the feeling of instability that came from my set makes me not want to go that route again.
Put new AC Delco rotors and ceramic pads back on and all my shudder went away. Car stops without shudder or increased noise.
Guess I'll be writing to ECB.
The garage said they could spend time diagnosing via looking for runout, resurfacing, etc, or we could shotgun a new set on. I went for the latter since I' was fed up with the whole ordeal.
Now the car is a pleasure to drive except in the real cold since it has body mount noises that show up in the cold.
I guess I never should have wasted my money on the performance brakes, but I got caught up in the hype. They must work for some folks, but the added noise, braking vibrations and the feeling of instability that came from my set makes me not want to go that route again.
11-23-2008, 11:54 PM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-10-2007
Location: LBC Ohio
Posts: 2,727
Man im glad i have had zero problems with mine no shudder hardly any noise at all, stops on a dime. i have about 13,000 miles on them now. I couldnt stand the Delco rotors very crappy rotor IMO, just like all of GMs brake designs unless its a higher performance car.
11-24-2008, 12:49 AM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-14-2007
Location: Chico Cali
Posts: 907
I'm with you on this one Chad,
I had horrible shudder on they stock rotors ecspecially when driving in the mountains (I drive fast and hard on the twisties) and I got so angry eveytime I had to apply the brakes so I went for the EBC dimpled and slotted with the red stuff (hardest) pads and this thing will do a backwards wheelie when I hit the brakes now. I love em'!
I must have at least 15-20k on these new brakes including a lot of mountain roads with fast slowing and a few thousand miles on highways during my recent road trip and the rest is around town stop and go. I even have a few miles of Bonneville Salt Flatts 
on em.
I could not be happier with my EBCs and will buy from them again.
As for the noise, that is normal for drilled and/or slotted rotors, when they are new and the edges are sharp the wind makes alot of noise when hitting the grooves evenwith your foot off the brake, its a whizzzing sound that deminishes with a thousnad miles or so. I do still hear the sound a bit if I listen for it, but I know its not a bad sound and so does anyone who knows much about performance brakes.
ALSO for the meber that asked about possibly mounting the rotors backwards, EBCs have an R or an L on them and its when sittig in the vehicle. Drivers is left, Pass in right.
I had horrible shudder on they stock rotors ecspecially when driving in the mountains (I drive fast and hard on the twisties) and I got so angry eveytime I had to apply the brakes so I went for the EBC dimpled and slotted with the red stuff (hardest) pads and this thing will do a backwards wheelie when I hit the brakes now. I love em'!
I must have at least 15-20k on these new brakes including a lot of mountain roads with fast slowing and a few thousand miles on highways during my recent road trip and the rest is around town stop and go. I even have a few miles of Bonneville Salt Flatts on em.I could not be happier with my EBCs and will buy from them again.
As for the noise, that is normal for drilled and/or slotted rotors, when they are new and the edges are sharp the wind makes alot of noise when hitting the grooves evenwith your foot off the brake, its a whizzzing sound that deminishes with a thousnad miles or so. I do still hear the sound a bit if I listen for it, but I know its not a bad sound and so does anyone who knows much about performance brakes.
ALSO for the meber that asked about possibly mounting the rotors backwards, EBCs have an R or an L on them and its when sittig in the vehicle. Drivers is left, Pass in right.
11-24-2008, 01:11 AM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-01-2006
Location: New London, CT USA
Posts: 2,507
I'm with you on this one Chad,
I had horrible shudder on they stock rotors ecspecially when driving in the mountains (I drive fast and hard on the twisties) and I got so angry eveytime I had to apply the brakes so I went for the EBC dimpled and slotted with the red stuff (hardest) pads and this thing will do a backwards wheelie when I hit the brakes now. I love em'! I must have at least 15-20k on these new brakes including a lot of mountain roads with fast slowing and a few thousand miles on highways during my recent road trip and the rest is around town stop and go. I even have a few miles of Bonneville Salt Flatts on em.
I could not be happier with my EBCs and will buy from them again.
As for the noise, that is normal for drilled and/or slotted rotors, when they are new and the edges are sharp the wind makes alot of noise when hitting the grooves evenwith your foot off the brake, its a whizzzing sound that deminishes with a thousnad miles or so. I do still hear the sound a bit if I listen for it, but I know its not a bad sound and so does anyone who knows much about performance brakes.
ALSO for the member that asked about possibly mounting the rotors backwards, EBCs have an R or an L on them and its when sittig in the vehicle. Drivers is left, Pass in right.
I had horrible shudder on they stock rotors ecspecially when driving in the mountains (I drive fast and hard on the twisties) and I got so angry eveytime I had to apply the brakes so I went for the EBC dimpled and slotted with the red stuff (hardest) pads and this thing will do a backwards wheelie when I hit the brakes now. I love em'!
I must have at least 15-20k on these new brakes including a lot of mountain roads with fast slowing and a few thousand miles on highways during my recent road trip and the rest is around town stop and go. I even have a few miles of Bonneville Salt Flatts on em.I could not be happier with my EBCs and will buy from them again.
As for the noise, that is normal for drilled and/or slotted rotors, when they are new and the edges are sharp the wind makes alot of noise when hitting the grooves evenwith your foot off the brake, its a whizzzing sound that deminishes with a thousnad miles or so. I do still hear the sound a bit if I listen for it, but I know its not a bad sound and so does anyone who knows much about performance brakes.
ALSO for the member that asked about possibly mounting the rotors backwards, EBCs have an R or an L on them and its when sittig in the vehicle. Drivers is left, Pass in right.
11-24-2008, 07:59 AM
#57
Former Sponsor
Join Date: 10-03-2007
Location: tempe, az
Posts: 45
I'll contribute some in hopes of clearing up some issues and preventing further problems for others.
1. Fitting an aftermarket rotor (of the same size) will in no way 'increase brake power' or such. The math of the torque equation remains the same; a 12" rotor for example does the same work regardless of brand.
2. Surface treatments such as slots and holes and whatever...can enhance pad performance a bit by reducing boundary lay build up under the pad but as a whole won't make magic of the brakes.
3. Choosing the proper pad for your intended use will go a log way to keeping your brakes working well. Metallic pads will generally stop better but have more noise and dust, ceramic pads less stopping power and may overheat quicker. Organic pads (few) don't do well today against the others. And YES pads do produce more brake torque based upon their Cf which (like sand paper) the more abrasive the more stop is generated.
4. No aftermarket stock replacement rotor is directional. They may come with stickers and such saying of which way they'd like you to run them but all are uni-directional. Directional rotors are directional based on their castings alone, not their surface treatments. Vanes are those webs between the rotor walls (not the slots) and can be cast to flow more air one way or the other on real directional parts. Running even those in the opposite direction (as oem Corvettes did for some time) produce no negative effects either. The DV casting is really not much value unless the car sees sustained triple digit speeds with high air flow.
5. The root cause of probably 95% of the vibration on brakes today is user habit and improper cooling. When a car brakes the heat generated is absorbed by the rotor. The pads heat up and the rotor draws this heat out to dissipate it. However driving habits today create real stresses on this by way of automatic transmissions and stop/go traffic. As the car produces this heat rapidly when slowing from 65 to 0 on a freeway exit ramp the pads remain held tightly to the very hot rotor. In time the pads (depending upon compound) will break down and adhere to that rotor in what are called 'hot spotting'. This minute high spot then continues to build up over time (or in some cases comes and goes with some pads) and creates the high spot and pulsation commonly referred to as "warped rotors". In technical terms: DTV or disc thickness variation.
Larger brakes are not totally immune to this either. Yes even 13" rotors which have a greater heat soak capacity and mild performance pads can see this as many users tend to push the BBK harder than the stock brakes. While they do respond to this very well by increasing brake performance they can still see the same root problems if driving habits are not adjusted.
What can you do? For one thing don't park a car with excessively hot brakes. You know who you are...so please don't ask for a definition of how hot is too hot. Just use some common sense. Also when you come to a hard stop learn to either creep your car at the light or put the car in N to remove the clamping from the pads to the rotor. Lastly, if you are a harder more spirited driver pick a metallic pad (oh but I hate dust and the NOISE...well get over it, you won't find a quiet performance pad) to use that is more stable at high temps so that during the braking event the pad is not on the verge of over heating.
As the owner of a Titan truck I read over and over the problems above from other owners. Yet as the owner of a brake business I know the root of the problem and have nearly 70k on my truck and only one set of replacement rotors and pads- the service recall (bad pad materials) early on. Yet others are on their third or fourth or Brand X parts with the same problems over and over....Is it right to have to endure such things and drive as we do? Perhaps not but the parts are the parts and you learn to work with them.
1. Fitting an aftermarket rotor (of the same size) will in no way 'increase brake power' or such. The math of the torque equation remains the same; a 12" rotor for example does the same work regardless of brand.
2. Surface treatments such as slots and holes and whatever...can enhance pad performance a bit by reducing boundary lay build up under the pad but as a whole won't make magic of the brakes.
3. Choosing the proper pad for your intended use will go a log way to keeping your brakes working well. Metallic pads will generally stop better but have more noise and dust, ceramic pads less stopping power and may overheat quicker. Organic pads (few) don't do well today against the others. And YES pads do produce more brake torque based upon their Cf which (like sand paper) the more abrasive the more stop is generated.
4. No aftermarket stock replacement rotor is directional. They may come with stickers and such saying of which way they'd like you to run them but all are uni-directional. Directional rotors are directional based on their castings alone, not their surface treatments. Vanes are those webs between the rotor walls (not the slots) and can be cast to flow more air one way or the other on real directional parts. Running even those in the opposite direction (as oem Corvettes did for some time) produce no negative effects either. The DV casting is really not much value unless the car sees sustained triple digit speeds with high air flow.
5. The root cause of probably 95% of the vibration on brakes today is user habit and improper cooling. When a car brakes the heat generated is absorbed by the rotor. The pads heat up and the rotor draws this heat out to dissipate it. However driving habits today create real stresses on this by way of automatic transmissions and stop/go traffic. As the car produces this heat rapidly when slowing from 65 to 0 on a freeway exit ramp the pads remain held tightly to the very hot rotor. In time the pads (depending upon compound) will break down and adhere to that rotor in what are called 'hot spotting'. This minute high spot then continues to build up over time (or in some cases comes and goes with some pads) and creates the high spot and pulsation commonly referred to as "warped rotors". In technical terms: DTV or disc thickness variation.
Larger brakes are not totally immune to this either. Yes even 13" rotors which have a greater heat soak capacity and mild performance pads can see this as many users tend to push the BBK harder than the stock brakes. While they do respond to this very well by increasing brake performance they can still see the same root problems if driving habits are not adjusted.
What can you do? For one thing don't park a car with excessively hot brakes. You know who you are...so please don't ask for a definition of how hot is too hot. Just use some common sense. Also when you come to a hard stop learn to either creep your car at the light or put the car in N to remove the clamping from the pads to the rotor. Lastly, if you are a harder more spirited driver pick a metallic pad (oh but I hate dust and the NOISE...well get over it, you won't find a quiet performance pad) to use that is more stable at high temps so that during the braking event the pad is not on the verge of over heating.
As the owner of a Titan truck I read over and over the problems above from other owners. Yet as the owner of a brake business I know the root of the problem and have nearly 70k on my truck and only one set of replacement rotors and pads- the service recall (bad pad materials) early on. Yet others are on their third or fourth or Brand X parts with the same problems over and over....Is it right to have to endure such things and drive as we do? Perhaps not but the parts are the parts and you learn to work with them.
11-24-2008, 08:58 AM
#58
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,791
Took it to a new garage. The ECB were the problem and had been since they were put on back in late July.
Put new AC Delco rotors and ceramic pads back on and all my shudder went away. Car stops without shudder or increased noise.
Guess I'll be writing to ECB.
The garage said they could spend time diagnosing via looking for runout, resurfacing, etc, or we could shotgun a new set on. I went for the latter since I' was fed up with the whole ordeal.
Now the car is a pleasure to drive except in the real cold since it has body mount noises that show up in the cold.
I guess I never should have wasted my money on the performance brakes, but I got caught up in the hype. They must work for some folks, but the added noise, braking vibrations and the feeling of instability that came from my set makes me not want to go that route again.
Put new AC Delco rotors and ceramic pads back on and all my shudder went away. Car stops without shudder or increased noise.
Guess I'll be writing to ECB.
The garage said they could spend time diagnosing via looking for runout, resurfacing, etc, or we could shotgun a new set on. I went for the latter since I' was fed up with the whole ordeal.
Now the car is a pleasure to drive except in the real cold since it has body mount noises that show up in the cold.
I guess I never should have wasted my money on the performance brakes, but I got caught up in the hype. They must work for some folks, but the added noise, braking vibrations and the feeling of instability that came from my set makes me not want to go that route again.
11-24-2008, 09:18 AM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-06-2008
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 1,761
I'll contribute some in hopes of clearing up some issues and preventing further problems for others.
1. Fitting an aftermarket rotor (of the same size) will in no way 'increase brake power' or such. The math of the torque equation remains the same; a 12" rotor for example does the same work regardless of brand.
2. Surface treatments such as slots and holes and whatever...can enhance pad performance a bit by reducing boundary lay build up under the pad but as a whole won't make magic of the brakes.
3. Choosing the proper pad for your intended use will go a log way to keeping your brakes working well. Metallic pads will generally stop better but have more noise and dust, ceramic pads less stopping power and may overheat quicker. Organic pads (few) don't do well today against the others. And YES pads do produce more brake torque based upon their Cf which (like sand paper) the more abrasive the more stop is generated.
4. No aftermarket stock replacement rotor is directional. They may come with stickers and such saying of which way they'd like you to run them but all are uni-directional. Directional rotors are directional based on their castings alone, not their surface treatments. Vanes are those webs between the rotor walls (not the slots) and can be cast to flow more air one way or the other on real directional parts. Running even those in the opposite direction (as oem Corvettes did for some time) produce no negative effects either. The DV casting is really not much value unless the car sees sustained triple digit speeds with high air flow.
5. The root cause of probably 95% of the vibration on brakes today is user habit and improper cooling. When a car brakes the heat generated is absorbed by the rotor. The pads heat up and the rotor draws this heat out to dissipate it. However driving habits today create real stresses on this by way of automatic transmissions and stop/go traffic. As the car produces this heat rapidly when slowing from 65 to 0 on a freeway exit ramp the pads remain held tightly to the very hot rotor. In time the pads (depending upon compound) will break down and adhere to that rotor in what are called 'hot spotting'. This minute high spot then continues to build up over time (or in some cases comes and goes with some pads) and creates the high spot and pulsation commonly referred to as "warped rotors". In technical terms: DTV or disc thickness variation.
Larger brakes are not totally immune to this either. Yes even 13" rotors which have a greater heat soak capacity and mild performance pads can see this as many users tend to push the BBK harder than the stock brakes. While they do respond to this very well by increasing brake performance they can still see the same root problems if driving habits are not adjusted.
What can you do? For one thing don't park a car with excessively hot brakes. You know who you are...so please don't ask for a definition of how hot is too hot. Just use some common sense. Also when you come to a hard stop learn to either creep your car at the light or put the car in N to remove the clamping from the pads to the rotor. Lastly, if you are a harder more spirited driver pick a metallic pad (oh but I hate dust and the NOISE...well get over it, you won't find a quiet performance pad) to use that is more stable at high temps so that during the braking event the pad is not on the verge of over heating.
As the owner of a Titan truck I read over and over the problems above from other owners. Yet as the owner of a brake business I know the root of the problem and have nearly 70k on my truck and only one set of replacement rotors and pads- the service recall (bad pad materials) early on. Yet others are on their third or fourth or Brand X parts with the same problems over and over....Is it right to have to endure such things and drive as we do? Perhaps not but the parts are the parts and you learn to work with them.
1. Fitting an aftermarket rotor (of the same size) will in no way 'increase brake power' or such. The math of the torque equation remains the same; a 12" rotor for example does the same work regardless of brand.
2. Surface treatments such as slots and holes and whatever...can enhance pad performance a bit by reducing boundary lay build up under the pad but as a whole won't make magic of the brakes.
3. Choosing the proper pad for your intended use will go a log way to keeping your brakes working well. Metallic pads will generally stop better but have more noise and dust, ceramic pads less stopping power and may overheat quicker. Organic pads (few) don't do well today against the others. And YES pads do produce more brake torque based upon their Cf which (like sand paper) the more abrasive the more stop is generated.
4. No aftermarket stock replacement rotor is directional. They may come with stickers and such saying of which way they'd like you to run them but all are uni-directional. Directional rotors are directional based on their castings alone, not their surface treatments. Vanes are those webs between the rotor walls (not the slots) and can be cast to flow more air one way or the other on real directional parts. Running even those in the opposite direction (as oem Corvettes did for some time) produce no negative effects either. The DV casting is really not much value unless the car sees sustained triple digit speeds with high air flow.
5. The root cause of probably 95% of the vibration on brakes today is user habit and improper cooling. When a car brakes the heat generated is absorbed by the rotor. The pads heat up and the rotor draws this heat out to dissipate it. However driving habits today create real stresses on this by way of automatic transmissions and stop/go traffic. As the car produces this heat rapidly when slowing from 65 to 0 on a freeway exit ramp the pads remain held tightly to the very hot rotor. In time the pads (depending upon compound) will break down and adhere to that rotor in what are called 'hot spotting'. This minute high spot then continues to build up over time (or in some cases comes and goes with some pads) and creates the high spot and pulsation commonly referred to as "warped rotors". In technical terms: DTV or disc thickness variation.
Larger brakes are not totally immune to this either. Yes even 13" rotors which have a greater heat soak capacity and mild performance pads can see this as many users tend to push the BBK harder than the stock brakes. While they do respond to this very well by increasing brake performance they can still see the same root problems if driving habits are not adjusted.
What can you do? For one thing don't park a car with excessively hot brakes. You know who you are...so please don't ask for a definition of how hot is too hot. Just use some common sense. Also when you come to a hard stop learn to either creep your car at the light or put the car in N to remove the clamping from the pads to the rotor. Lastly, if you are a harder more spirited driver pick a metallic pad (oh but I hate dust and the NOISE...well get over it, you won't find a quiet performance pad) to use that is more stable at high temps so that during the braking event the pad is not on the verge of over heating.
As the owner of a Titan truck I read over and over the problems above from other owners. Yet as the owner of a brake business I know the root of the problem and have nearly 70k on my truck and only one set of replacement rotors and pads- the service recall (bad pad materials) early on. Yet others are on their third or fourth or Brand X parts with the same problems over and over....Is it right to have to endure such things and drive as we do? Perhaps not but the parts are the parts and you learn to work with them.
I have an 02 F250 diesel that I pull about 13K# with and have 78K mile on the original brakes! I have always creeped or put in N with my foot off the brake after any hard stops and have never had any issues with vibrations... I was never sure I was doing the right thing, just felt it was the right thing to do. Now I know it is.....
11-24-2008, 10:12 PM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-10-2007
Location: LBC Ohio
Posts: 2,727
I'll contribute some in hopes of clearing up some issues and preventing further problems for others.
1. Fitting an aftermarket rotor (of the same size) will in no way 'increase brake power' or such. The math of the torque equation remains the same; a 12" rotor for example does the same work regardless of brand.
2. Surface treatments such as slots and holes and whatever...can enhance pad performance a bit by reducing boundary lay build up under the pad but as a whole won't make magic of the brakes.
3. Choosing the proper pad for your intended use will go a log way to keeping your brakes working well. Metallic pads will generally stop better but have more noise and dust, ceramic pads less stopping power and may overheat quicker. Organic pads (few) don't do well today against the others. And YES pads do produce more brake torque based upon their Cf which (like sand paper) the more abrasive the more stop is generated.
4. No aftermarket stock replacement rotor is directional. They may come with stickers and such saying of which way they'd like you to run them but all are uni-directional. Directional rotors are directional based on their castings alone, not their surface treatments. Vanes are those webs between the rotor walls (not the slots) and can be cast to flow more air one way or the other on real directional parts. Running even those in the opposite direction (as oem Corvettes did for some time) produce no negative effects either. The DV casting is really not much value unless the car sees sustained triple digit speeds with high air flow.
5. The root cause of probably 95% of the vibration on brakes today is user habit and improper cooling. When a car brakes the heat generated is absorbed by the rotor. The pads heat up and the rotor draws this heat out to dissipate it. However driving habits today create real stresses on this by way of automatic transmissions and stop/go traffic. As the car produces this heat rapidly when slowing from 65 to 0 on a freeway exit ramp the pads remain held tightly to the very hot rotor. In time the pads (depending upon compound) will break down and adhere to that rotor in what are called 'hot spotting'. This minute high spot then continues to build up over time (or in some cases comes and goes with some pads) and creates the high spot and pulsation commonly referred to as "warped rotors". In technical terms: DTV or disc thickness variation.
Larger brakes are not totally immune to this either. Yes even 13" rotors which have a greater heat soak capacity and mild performance pads can see this as many users tend to push the BBK harder than the stock brakes. While they do respond to this very well by increasing brake performance they can still see the same root problems if driving habits are not adjusted.
What can you do? For one thing don't park a car with excessively hot brakes. You know who you are...so please don't ask for a definition of how hot is too hot. Just use some common sense. Also when you come to a hard stop learn to either creep your car at the light or put the car in N to remove the clamping from the pads to the rotor. Lastly, if you are a harder more spirited driver pick a metallic pad (oh but I hate dust and the NOISE...well get over it, you won't find a quiet performance pad) to use that is more stable at high temps so that during the braking event the pad is not on the verge of over heating.
As the owner of a Titan truck I read over and over the problems above from other owners. Yet as the owner of a brake business I know the root of the problem and have nearly 70k on my truck and only one set of replacement rotors and pads- the service recall (bad pad materials) early on. Yet others are on their third or fourth or Brand X parts with the same problems over and over....Is it right to have to endure such things and drive as we do? Perhaps not but the parts are the parts and you learn to work with them.
1. Fitting an aftermarket rotor (of the same size) will in no way 'increase brake power' or such. The math of the torque equation remains the same; a 12" rotor for example does the same work regardless of brand.
2. Surface treatments such as slots and holes and whatever...can enhance pad performance a bit by reducing boundary lay build up under the pad but as a whole won't make magic of the brakes.
3. Choosing the proper pad for your intended use will go a log way to keeping your brakes working well. Metallic pads will generally stop better but have more noise and dust, ceramic pads less stopping power and may overheat quicker. Organic pads (few) don't do well today against the others. And YES pads do produce more brake torque based upon their Cf which (like sand paper) the more abrasive the more stop is generated.
4. No aftermarket stock replacement rotor is directional. They may come with stickers and such saying of which way they'd like you to run them but all are uni-directional. Directional rotors are directional based on their castings alone, not their surface treatments. Vanes are those webs between the rotor walls (not the slots) and can be cast to flow more air one way or the other on real directional parts. Running even those in the opposite direction (as oem Corvettes did for some time) produce no negative effects either. The DV casting is really not much value unless the car sees sustained triple digit speeds with high air flow.
5. The root cause of probably 95% of the vibration on brakes today is user habit and improper cooling. When a car brakes the heat generated is absorbed by the rotor. The pads heat up and the rotor draws this heat out to dissipate it. However driving habits today create real stresses on this by way of automatic transmissions and stop/go traffic. As the car produces this heat rapidly when slowing from 65 to 0 on a freeway exit ramp the pads remain held tightly to the very hot rotor. In time the pads (depending upon compound) will break down and adhere to that rotor in what are called 'hot spotting'. This minute high spot then continues to build up over time (or in some cases comes and goes with some pads) and creates the high spot and pulsation commonly referred to as "warped rotors". In technical terms: DTV or disc thickness variation.
Larger brakes are not totally immune to this either. Yes even 13" rotors which have a greater heat soak capacity and mild performance pads can see this as many users tend to push the BBK harder than the stock brakes. While they do respond to this very well by increasing brake performance they can still see the same root problems if driving habits are not adjusted.
What can you do? For one thing don't park a car with excessively hot brakes. You know who you are...so please don't ask for a definition of how hot is too hot. Just use some common sense. Also when you come to a hard stop learn to either creep your car at the light or put the car in N to remove the clamping from the pads to the rotor. Lastly, if you are a harder more spirited driver pick a metallic pad (oh but I hate dust and the NOISE...well get over it, you won't find a quiet performance pad) to use that is more stable at high temps so that during the braking event the pad is not on the verge of over heating.
As the owner of a Titan truck I read over and over the problems above from other owners. Yet as the owner of a brake business I know the root of the problem and have nearly 70k on my truck and only one set of replacement rotors and pads- the service recall (bad pad materials) early on. Yet others are on their third or fourth or Brand X parts with the same problems over and over....Is it right to have to endure such things and drive as we do? Perhaps not but the parts are the parts and you learn to work with them.
With the EBS rotors I don't see them being unidirectional because of how the slots are, they are like fins you want them to be going away from the pads when they make contact no towards them.
Now about the pads I also bought the Ceramic kevlar Red Stuff pads and I honestly Don't see how these have less stopping power than the crappy metallic's, when i compare them its night and day difference, especially with brake fade, the hotter the metallic's got, the worst fade there was. With the EBCs there is very little brake fade even when extremely hot, i mean there is brake fade but compared to the stockers it very minimal.
Lastly, brake dust does suck very bad that is one of the worst things about metallic's. If you like to keep a clean car clean and rims looking nice metallic pads will not help you. They let off so much abrasive dust its ridiculous, it ruins wheels especially when it come flying off the pad very hot like freaking molten steel, it beds itself into either your wheels or your paint. I know Ceramics let off hot dust also but i have always noticed more tiny scratches in my wheels when i had metallic pads from wiping them off, with my new wheels i put them on when i did the brakes and have had Zero scratches on them.
Please note that I am in no way questioning your profession I know this is you business but I'm just going by what i have experienced with using a mixture of performance and metallic pads, and performance rotors. I have been using different rotors and such on all my cars for the past 9 years and i will always go with non metallic pads, hands down a lot better than metallics. I have never had problems with the performance stuff either.