Harpozep

Sorry we are in the same predicament Lee.We both thought performance brakes would be the answer. I know we've both had them on other cars we've owned, So this whole ECB thing seemed like, well, just the right thing that we always do when it comes time to change our brakes.

Yeah, we likely have the same noises. They go away after a few minutes driving, but are quite loud and intrusive. The noises really appear on very cold days. I just got a TSB from Chevy from a forum member here on some of the noises. Some may be what is at the root , but I'm not sure. Would you like the TSB? I can email it to you .

k5hart

Well, I'm going to chime in just to add my car to the list. My EBC rotors started shaking as soon as I put them on. Not as bad as the stock ones but very noticable. No, I didn't check the runout when I put them on because I didn't have the indicator handy. I did torque the wheels with a torque wrench to factory specs, blah, blah. In short I did everything correctly other than check runout, break in and driving habits included. I just never said anything because I didn't feel like getting told it's the way I drive as I have before on here with the stock rotor problems. I didn't make a claim because i didn't check the runout and honestly I'm just sick of fighting with everyone. Seems like the consumer beware in everything I buy these days. Even beyond cars. I'm over this car at this point. It's just become a mode of transportation. Between the brakes, rattling headliner and dash, and the MANY problems with the dealers I can't wait to get rid of it. No more new GMs for me, and this is from a GM fan.

Harpozep

I hear ya. I'm not quite there yet, but may go back to Buick if it lives. My dad's the Chevy guy. He has had great luck with his Impalas, Monte Carlos, and one Barretta. I'm the Corvair guy, you know, the Car that GM orphaned.

The HHR has been a mixed bag. So much to like, but the horrible noises I'm likely to have to pay a ton to get fixed ( Unless it they are somehow in the TSB s ) ( Or if they can even be diagnosed ) are turning me way off to this hip ride.

It's a clunk mobile now, and it makes me sad. I no longer treat it special, just getting the clips to keep the drivers door threshold in place has become a chore. Yes, the thing comes off all the time. We need to cement it down I guess.

Makes me ponder ever getting the SS now, and there is a nice one at the dealer right now too.............
I guess they are having brake problems upon startup. Same thing different car, eh?

I want a cool looking car that runs dependably and does not make me cringe from undiagnosable noises.

Weird that many of our HHRs have rejected the ECB brakes, but I guess for general driving, they are not the answer. I've put performance brakes on many cars and never had this much aggravation with them out of the gate.

Yeah, it a good time for all to complain about something you really do have an understanding of and get repeatedly bashed for coming out against. I see it all the time in forums. Not that anyone has bashed me over this, but the general tone in complaint threads seems go that way.

On the other hand, complaint threads are good because they allow us to gather and exchange intel. we would never know of the braking problems on the SS if it were not for some of these threads. It's not like GM is actively telling new buyers of these potential maladies.

HHR Nole

I put on my set of EBC's with green pads back last May before a trip to the mountains. I made sure that the hubs were clean before I installed them and checked runout.Did the proper break in before the trip. I also towed a small trailer on the trip and car was loaded down.Brakes stopped fine,no shudder like my stock rotors. I now have around 15,000 on them and they still work good,no problems.

Lee3333

I have been stalling on this brake thing. From what EBC says, we have to check the runout on the hub before installing their rotors. I dont have the caliper for that. Why such measures needed? Do I have to bring it to a shop for a simple rotor/brake job and pay all that labor? And what of my almost new rotors and pads? Are they a total loss?

Next Friday marks 3 years, so I have to get it in to the dealer for a few problems-drivers door no longer stays open, rain is leaking in to the rear shoulder harness belts, and that horrible scrapeing sound from the back when it is cold. Also, the passanger front door sill keeps popping off. And an occassional front end clunk when I hit a bump. And the T/C code problem. And the brakes.

k5hart

You know I've been thinking about this since the post got started and I've noticed that around town, with light braking the shaking isn't there. If I get on the interstate or have some harder (not panic!) braking or just longer driving, it shows up. Funny thing is that when it's shaking if I brake a little harder it smooths out again. I don't understand it.

Lee3333

That is common. When you step harder on the pedal, the pulsating is reduced. You can try just applying the back brakes to isolate the problem. Just make sure that you hold the button down as you pull up the handbrake. Also make sure there are no cars behind you, since your brake lights will not go on to alert other drivers you are slowing down.

BDUB

Ok, I'm back. In post #51 I told a story of having the stock rotors turned and installing new semi metallic pads. My car had approximately 13,000 miles. The shake started at 7,000 miles. After my repair, I had no brake pulsation at all.
On January 12 I drove from Michigan to Ocala, FL. I thought I felt the shake starting to come back. After I returned home the brake pulsation is now back. Now, this is all I-75 driving. No sudden stops or riding the brakes. Quite frankly, I don't know which way to go. My wifes HHR has no brake pulsation at all.

IgottaWoody

You have bad metallurgy,,that is the metal used for your rotors have not been processed correctly and the heat is causing them to warp.It happens..seems like there may have been a bad batch,,or maybe a new supplier that didn't meet standards.China rotors were known for this...some of the HHR'S have this problem and the rest don't. So..at this point..throw away the bad rotors and get some known good ones..from what Ive been reading most dealers will replace them if the turning doesn;t fix the warp....a bad rotor doesn't need a lot of heat to warp, especially if it wasn't manufactured correctly.

BDUB

Thanks IGOTAWOODY. The next step is finding some good rotors. I'll keep you posted.