Turning them isnt so easy. Although the web site says any good machine can do it, mechanics I spoke to were all hesitant about them, since they are slotted and dimpled. They are afraid the blade that cuts them will get damaged, and I guess they are expensive. Besides, mine are also out of round (yours may be too) and that would require machine work. You shouldnt have to do that to new rotors, should you? Arent they supposed to just work properly right out of the box? Since so many people here have used the EBC with no problems, my only suspicion is that some are not made properly to begin with. And it disturbs me how their web site predicts that some people will have this problem at about 2000 miles and they blame it on something in the car causing disc thickness variation. It appears that they are expecting some of their customers to have problems with their product and making excuses.

Glad to hear that my old wheels are doing good.

 

 

Just an update-I had a set of Concept R1 slotted rotors that worked great for a few thousand miles then began the dreaded vibrations again. I took them to a shop that cut them as I watched. Although they appeared to do everything right, and the rotors looked fine, when we reinstalled them the vibration was actually MUCH worse than before, occurring even at low speeds. We replaced the rotors with a set of plain, old Centrix rotors and so far, nearly 3 thousand miles later, no vibrations.

 

Lee-

What pads did ya use with the centric plain rotors ?

 

Yep, got nothing to do with your rotors....all about pad compound and how you use the brakes. Nothing more.

 

They were the ones I bought from R1 Concept. Don't remember the brand, though I will look to see if I still have the box in the garage. The reason I did not want to change both the pads and rotor at the same time was because in trouble shooting you can only change one variable at a time. Now I know for sure that it was the rotors. If I had changed both the rotor and the pads together, I would not have known which one solved the problem.

The real mystery, though, is why is a stock cheap rotor lasting longer than the expensive slotted, dimpled ones??? Still driving the same way, on the same roads, etc.

 

Cause the oem rotors are made outta better iron.