Any time a tire is remounted it must be rebalanced. The pressure printed on the tire is plainly labelled "Maximum Pressure" not "operating pressure". It is the maximum pressure before it becomes dangerous.

The pressure that the manufacturer recommends for your safety is printed on the placard on your driver door sill and in your Owner Manual. You really should read the Owner Manual, if you don't have on follow the link in my sig for a free digital copy.

 

Most folks go by what is on the door label.
However, I like it a little softer so I tend to take a pound or two off. Specifically on the Mustang.
This has a downside, in that it wears the tires more and lowers the fuel efficiency a hair, but you get slightly better traction with reduced pressure too.
Also, I am NOT concerned about efficiency in THAT car!

Tire guys have their own ideas and some are pretty good.
For example, the HHR says 30 PSI, but my guys set mine to 32, due to the tires' specs.
It made the ride a little stiffer, but improved MPG by a mile or two.

 

But then, we have the famous case of the Corvair. At the recommended pressure the rear wheels tended to cant in curves and over steer horribly (due to the cost cutting elimination of sway bars), so Chevy told dealers to disregard the recommendation and lower the front pressure. Making the pressure 15psi front, 26psi rear, when cold; 18 psi and 30psi hot. Too many people heeded the placard and crashed, then more people crashed when they upgraded to radial tires and the tire guy put 32 PSI all around. That is the shortened explanation that Ralph Nader missed.

 

Not to get too off topic to help the OP, how are pressure recommendations from the manufacturer made?

 

Science.

 

no balance..??......sure sounds like the "issue" to me.....that TPMS sensor, alone, has some heft to it........can't believe that the "tire guy" didn't rebalance it..