Ensure the sway bar end link nuts are tight, some times the installer hits them with an impact gun but don't torque them correctly. I think it's the Pedders springs coil binding.

 

In the picture below, if you see any rub marks like that, then you've got coil binding. Those are rear Pedders pictured, but the same principle would apply to the fronts.

 

That's what I thought too, but I did t have this problem before I put them on.
Myself and a friend I stalled them ourselves utilizing the NEX auto hobby shop. Lift and tools for $6 an hour. I looked into every bolt that is down there, on the off chance I didn't get a good torque on something. Everything is torqued down properly and nothing jiggles.

I'll look at the springs tomorrow to see if I have coil binding. I bought them used from a local friend with a SS and he says he did t have any problems. They were a bit rough, surface rust and the coating was mostly gone. I wire wheeled them and coated them with plastidip. I used that because its a somewhat duae and flexible material. They did however show signs of "coil binding", as shown in fireman's picture. If this is the problem, what is the solution? And will it hurt anything if I continue to use the springs.

 

I feel I should also say that it feels fine driving. There does not appear to be any adverse handling characteristics.

 

So, I got up under it today. There was no indication of the coil rubbing on itself. I looked at where the Sway bar and A arm would meet if they were to hit, and found this.

 

I take it that's the original swaybar and not the SS smaller diameter one ?
Now that you're lowered maybe that fatter stock bar is not going to clear the lowered stance of the A-arm.

To be blunt. Sometimes when you mix up a variety of suspension parts, well, you can find that stuff doesn't always work.

 

Check the LCA rear bushing , you might be able to shim the sway bar bushing bracket an 1/8 to 3/16 ths with washers or front end shims

 

That geometry is hard to visualize. All the lowering happens above the sway bar link, it's the body that is lower not the suspension. IDK, maybe the FE5 strut has a different dimension knuckle to link mount.

 

Well, drove it to work today. Still no effect on the handling. I'm wondering if the sway bar is moving side to side. I think tonight I'll get under it and see if I have the same wear mark on the driver's side of the sway bar.

 

Supposed to move side to side some, but there are stops.