Problem with that thought is, look how many are having issues with factory, untouched brakes. Putting on new pads or rotors isn't exactly rocket science. You can't put them on backwards.... Everything fits in a certian way only..... There are only 2 caliper bolts to remove. How many new cars have their brakes "seated" properly before the new owner takes it home? None. This has been a complaint towards GM products for decades. Some better, some worse. The HHR seems to fall in the worse catagory. If constantly having to manually adjust your automatic adjusters sounds "normal" to anyone, well, it's not. I just did brakes on my wifes 03 for the first time. About 70K on the odometer. Only had to barely clean up the rotors a bit, and the drums didn't need any adjustment.

But I also still feel the type and area of driving takes a big role here. The HHR does not like heavy braking high traffic areas.

That said, it's an issue I live with. It's cheap to fix.

 

Solman......

You hit a couple of the points that I specifically was referenecing.....tid-bits.

How many KNOW and adjust the rear brakes....like it or not (my dealer does this on every oil change)...shouldn't need to, but does. If you know the adjusters are not working properly, take it to the dealer (especially under warranty). Out of warranty, repair it or manually adjust (I repaired mine...but I do a "touch up" manual adjust)

Also, look at how many are NOT having problems with factory brakes. They vastly out number those that are.....remember, about a half million HHR's have been built.

Seating the brakes is a owner responsibility on a new car. GM, although not in detail, mentions it in the Owners Manual re: break-in. However, few know about it. "hyper" has spent a lot of time with many posts explaining or linking people to a post that applies details.

58 GM vehicles in 28 years. NEVER had a problem with "the warpage" problem. Some were purchased for the express purpose of very high mileage accumulation (80,000/per year). Never put pads (or shoes) on a vehicle prior to about 60,000 miles (one was at 132,000, but that was almost an exclusive highway car...exceot for work). Still goes back to the owner being responsible.

Oh and if you check, you'll find quite a few people who experienced problems with the OEM's, used after market parts and still encountered the same problems after several thousand miles.

And your explanation of pad/rotor installation is poor and part of the problem. Many people think they can do this.....and can, if it is just that simple. But how many really check the rotor or hubs for run-out, for example ....which is part of GM's...SI (admittedly, many tech.'s at a dealership do not do this). Sometimes your lucky, if you don't do it...it works. Sometimes your not...problems. I even "dial" the top and bottom of each pad to assure of even application. If not within .002, I shim....constant even pressure, nothing like it.

How many check to assure the "pistons" move freely, and do the necessary repair if needed. How about if they are even "balanced" in application.

Many people that encounter a "warpage" feel after a serious stop/heavy city traffic, do not even know of simple remedies that can be exercised. Many times these work....many times they don't. But they are probably not employed.

Now mentioning all this, I will admit GM brake components are different and that needs to be realized. But I can list friends and acquaintances who own competitive products and they experienced similar "brake problems" also.

I'm getting ready to install brakes now....have 55,000 on the car and I estimate PROBABLY another 6,000-8,000 on the pads. Haven't decided on OEM or aftermarket.

You gave your opinion....I gave mine.....I'm done.

 

That's true, I only gave a brief discription of brake installation. If your replacing a rotor that is true, you don't need to check it's run out (what I stated), it only goes on one way, or your not going to get the caliper back on. If your replacing pads, well they only go in one way (what I stated). GM has issues, and I'm basing that on the current fleet of 8,100 vehicles I manage. That inludes GM, Ford, Chrysler, Hundia, Honda, & Nissan. Guess on average who had the worse brakes? Hyper and I have discussed this before and have similiar backgrounds, we know where each other stands.

No one know how many are, or are not having issues. But you can easily tell the number of ones that complain. Most just take it to the shop, have it done, and be on their merry way. If all had the problem, well I'm GM would handle this differently, don't you think?

I've owned more than just GM and enjoy GM products. I'll state what I see is good, and I'll admit what's not. When you see the same issues more in one area, it's not good. And it's not always the owners fault.

Again, some things are not rocket science.

 

mine as almost 200,000 miles. i live in the mountains and it is a work vehicle that pulls a trailer lots and is always full of golf grips or tape. not light stuff. Have changed the rotors once and the pads twice. when i keep the rear brakes adjusted i have very little problems.

 

I find brake issues are just very mis understood. Too often the problem is never solved because many people always treat the syptom and not the real issues. This is why many have repeated issues.

Also many people treat the brakes as they were 35 years ago when some small things have changed and effected the life and the durability of the brakes, namely the hub bearings.

The brakes on the HHR are pretty much similar across the GM line and if serviced properly they will not have issues.

I just changed my SS pads and rotors and never had a pulse issue nor wear issues. All my pads worn even and to a similar thickness front and rear. Note I did seat them in when new and it made a difference. Also note I did have a little bit of a pulse at one point after a hard stop but it was just a build up of pad material and it went away after a week.

I am looking forward to my new Red EBC pads for less dust as the factory pads would leave my wheels black in two days.

I am a week in and the break in material is still wearing off the EBC pads. Once it s off we should see a improvment in braking. I have always had good service out of EBC and Hawk pads.

 

All I know is I have had 2 different HHR's a 07 and my current 09 and both warped the front rotors..repeatedly. The Service Manager will only say that he thinks its caused from the hot rotors hitting a puddle of water or something. Who knows. Ive never owned a car that had rotor issues, let alone two.

So I guess I am gonna have to buy aftermarkets..tired of paying to get the OEM's turned.

 

Service writers and many mangers are not always the most techincal savy people.

I would say you may need to check the hub play and make sure it is less than .002. Or also make sure to bed or seat them in once they install new pads.

If all it took to warp a rotor is to put cold water on a hot rotor we all would have this issue every time it rains. Sorry but the guy is full of Sh1t!

You can spend a lot of money for aftermarket rotors but it will not change a thing. We sell nearly all and every trick rotor on the market and the best one you can buy is a solid stock Bendix etc. To be honest the fancy ones are just good for my profit sharing.

Also like Solman has pointed out check your rear brake adjustment. You may be getting the front brakes hot and the material from the pads are sticking to it from the over heating because the rear brakes are not doing their job.

No odds are the dealer did not check them.

 

anybody take notice how its mostly non-SS cars that have this problem? So, with that said, could part of the problem be the LS and LT brakes (rotors) may be just borderline of being too small? As the SS rotors are a tad bigger, this could be enough to diminish the problem....along with non SS rear drum brakes that put a bigger load on the fronts due to adjustment..hmmmm...more so the rears I think..since no 2 cars are alike, that may be why some do and some dont, being borderline.....just a thought

 

I do believe this is a big part of it, along with they type of driving each individual had to deal with (or their driving). One of the reason's I'm trying the SS rotors now. Not going to swap out the rear axle, (although would like to). I'm just keeping a closer eye on the rears now. Once I hit 3 clicks on the hand brake, I'll adjust. When I need rears done, I'm going for a full rebuild with hopes that will make the auto adjusters, automatice.

I've only got a couple hundred miles on the new brakes, so time will tell if my theory is correct or not.

 

I really think it has more to do with the rear drum brakes out of adjustment Vs size as they are not that much different.