Welcome to the site, TX.ZR2. I am planning on putting the SS brakes on the LT. I'll let you know, but others have done it without problems.

 

So I see.. thanks

 

Welcome!

The SS upgrade was just done by Solman here and it is a cheap upgrade for a slightly larger rotor. It is similar to the upgrade GM offered for the W Body cars as the GTP Comp G and Police package in 04 has a larger rotor on the front.

Note the Shimmy can still happen with the upgrade too. The keys are to use a good pad, Seat the pads in and make sure the rear drums are adjusted up.

With the higher miles you also want to check up play it should be .002 or less. If not you can create Rotor Thickness Variation where the rotors will wobble and wear uneven. This is often confused for warp.

Using the Dimples and sloted rotors are fine if you want the show them throught the wheels. But the best rotor you can uses is the solid rolor. Other than the slots there is no performance gain at all. They also cost you more money.

I work in the performancer aftermarket and we make a lot of money off of people thinking they are better. I sat at the table with the man that heads EBC brakes and he said they sell them only because they make money and the solids are as good as you can use.

The real key is seating and bedding the brakes as the factory does not do it nor do many mechanics anymore and with the changes from organic pads it has created a lot of issues with most model vehicles today.

 

Hey Snoopy and Hyperv6, I wanted to thank you both for the explanation(s).

I think I get the point! brEAK brAKE in, and try no to keep my foot hard on the brakes after a hard stop or heavy breaking. Not a problem with my manual as I tend to let off the brakes after stopping anyway, unless on a hill. I know, if I get rear ended I will roll out into traffic...
I have always done this, even on autos (N), and rarely had problems. I have noticed an occasional vibration on most of my vehicles, but over time they do seem to go away.... I probably get this because of using the cheapest pads I can buy :o)

 

No problem.

Cheap pads changing pad materials of today etc all contribute to the issues we see.

Too many people underestimate the issues involved Brakes are more than just replacing pads.

Also the warp theory thing is so out of hand it is no wonder many never solve their issues.

The key to effective car repair today is being informed. Things we did 20 years ago no longer apply anylonger. It is never ending. I know many a good mechanic that is behind and it in time catches up to them.

With my job I have to keep up as much as I can as we deal with so many cars and one mistake on a part can trash an engine.

 

My brakes shimmied badly when I first got my used HHR. The first things I did was replace bad hub bearings, which were under warranty (right year, not yet expired). One was found by Firestone, and then the bad local dealer warranty replaced....a different one which was also bad. The better local dealer then warranty replaced the first one Firestone had found. Shimmy improved but didn't totally go away. Then Firestone replaced front pads, turned rotors, and adjusted the rear brakes. All problems went away and have stayed away for about 40,000 miles. The moral of the story:
1. First check the hub bearings.
2. The rear brake self-adjustment is a misnomer, occasionally adjust manually or have a professional do it.
3. Rotors may not warp by themselves, but can be damaged by ruined hub bearings and require turning or replacement to work correctly after the bearings are replaced. Going back to the top of the thread, this is rotor thickness variation, usually caused by LRO (wear induced over time and miles), 0.002 run out on the hub is what causes LRO.

Doctuh/Harlan

 

The key to the rear adjusters are two fold. One you need to back up and hit the brake for them to adjust. If you never or seldom back up they will never adjust the drums up. Disc you need to use your E brake while holding your foot down on the brake pedal.

Second adjusters like to freeze up on some vehicles. Rust dirt and other things can make the adjuster freeze up. When replacing rear brakes always clean and lube them with high temp brake lube before reinstalling.

 

There is another reason for the distortion of rotors - rapid cooling. On bad Russian roads is a daily occurrence.
The car is moving normally "acceleration - deceleration - acceleration." At some point a puddle on the road, a car drives into a puddle and the water cools a rotors. If the Rotors manufacturer has not exclude this opportunity specifically, the rotors can get distortion.
I think for the HHR is a common problem. When my Hippo came to me, his rotors were similar to "8". I sharpened them, and for a while all was well, but now I have this problem again. I ordered new rotors and protection for them (steel plate). I will make replacement after I get this iron in the mail.

 

Cold water on a hot rotor is a myth. If that were true it would happen to all of us every time it rained.

I also have hit the wheels with the hose washing when the brakes are hot many times and never have the issue.

Water hits the rotors all the time why you drive in any kind of weather. In the summer rain in the winter snow and slush.

Odds are the bad roads do more damage to the hub bearing and causes the RTV than anything.

The only think that keep rotors dry when in the rain is the heat from them as they dry fast when the water hits them.

 

hyperv6 there you go again, teaching me something I did not know!
I never knew that you had to/could adjust rear disks??
I have NEVER done this on cars with 4 wheel disk brakes