.....the "self adjusters" can work and self adjust when backing up and brakeing, but it doesn't or won't work all the time. It's just a good thing to remember to adjust them by hand yourself when you notice your hand brake clicks a few extra notches. I personally couldn't get the rears to adjust themselves to my liking no matter how many times I backed up and tapped/hit/stomped the brakes. The internals are clean and lubed but it just wouldn't adjust "enough" to make a good difference. Still had to do them by hand for the best results.

 

not a myth. Ask any of the metallurgist, he'll tell you that this rapid cooling.
The metal has a granular structure: strong cores + weak periphery. Thus, there are stress - zone within the metal. Process of "Metall strengthening" aimed at the destruction stress - zones. This forging, this hardening. this cryogenic treatment (-300 F).
Manufacturer of brake rotors provides normal (average) operating conditions. You're right, the normal rain did not spoil the rotor. The more snow, it is "warmer" than the rain. But if your wheel will fall into a pool until the hub and will remain there for 1 - 2 seconds, you will get INSTANT cooling of Rotor 500/600 degrees down. If the metal have a stress - zone, they will make themselves known.

 

Get ebc rotors haven't had any
Problems since I changed from the OEM
Ones at 30,000 love them.
No problems last 3 years.

 

The EBC rotors are good but they are also just cometic. trust me on this as the guy that is the head of EBC told me face to face at work. Nice English chap I might add. I he knows more about brakes than most of us will ever know.

Odds are if you used EBC pads with them the break in material is why you have had no issues.

 

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

I should explain further. While yes cast iron can distort to a degree it is not the cause of the pulse or judder many think since they are designed to move and float to take up the differences in surface distortions.

If you think about it the calipers free floating or fixed are designed for equal pressure on both sides of the rotor. If there is a warp or uneven issue with the rotor the caliper either moves or the fluid trasfers to even out the pressures and contact.

It is not much unlike say the brakes on a bycycle as few of them have pure true wheels. The brakes are made to float and apply pressure evenly even on a uneven surface. Auto brakes and cycle brakes have a lot of give to them as seldom are rotor totally true.

Brakes are made to move and absorbe uneven surfaces. Can you imagine how difficult it would be to keep a rotor and brake caliper totally even in pressure and contact if the parts did not have a large degree of adjustment designed in.

Now in the case of RTV the rotor thickness is uneven not a warp and this causes the fluid pressure to increase and decrease with the thickness of the rotor as the brakes are applies and turns. The caliper can not absorbe this kind of movment nor can the brake fluid apply it evenly.

Also too may people underestimate cementite inclusion in the rotor surface. The pad material can embed in anywhere from a few miles to several thousand miles and it can be prevented.

The fact is a rotor can warp to a degree is true. Fact that is causes a pulse is a myth. Generally for it to get that far out you will have cracks. There a limits on how far that cast materials will distort. They are not sheemetal.

So to say no warp in cast materials is not 100% true but the it is accurate to say it is a myth that brakes pulse due to warped rotors.

Note Carol Smith has passed away but his book on road racing car prep is still the bible for racing. The web site I posted is only a small part of what he has on brakes. We all could learn a lot from him vs just our exchanges on the web. Not most Brake MFG's agree with his statments and many even refer back to his like stop tech.

 

I have been buying new Chevys, and dealing with GM dealerships for the past 20 years. Here is what I found. Any GM dealership can do warranty work on your car, or even recall work. My wife and I have both brought non Chevy vehicles into a Chevy dealership to get recalls done. (One Pontiac, one Buick.) Her Saab was the only thing they would not do warranty work on. I was down south with my then somewhat new 94 Impala SS. The rear end was howling. I dropped it off at a Buick Pontiac, GMC dealership, and it was reaplaced under warranty. Some things I had to call the manufacturer to get permission, but the Service manager called for me, and the work got done. With all that said. 3/36 bumper to bumper means just that. There is not much other than air filter, wipers, or even tires that should fail below that thresh hold. So brakes are covered against defects. Hell even alignments are covered if the tires are wearing unevenly. I know, it is one of the things I brought my car in for. I would do one or two things with this service manager who thinks brake rotors are 2/24. Either show me proof, or I call GM, and have them tell you it is 3/36. If it is discovered that the rotors failed, then even though pads are not covered, they should be replaced at no cost to you if damage to them is a direct result of failed rotors. But either way, the real reason for my post, is that if you are feeling like you are getting a runaround from the service manager, then find another dealership. If there is no other Chevrolet Dealerships, then call Chevrolet warranty and ask to take it to another non GM dealership until you get the correct results. I look at it this way. GM states they will give you a warm and fuzzy feeling by giving you a warranty, and that can and does sway many to buy GM.(I buy them because they are cool). So if they offer a warranty, and I have to make a payment to and go into dept to buy their product, then they are going to honor that warranty. If something is not covered, that is one thing. But if it is, and it fails, GM is fixing it. Period.
Remember. If you are told something that does not seem correct, ask to see it in writing. A service writer or manager should not be pulling stuff out of the air. If they tell you something is not covered, that info is in the building,or how would they know. Tell them you want to see. Brake linings, shoes or pads, are not rotors. I have had rotors replaced under warranty, and the pads were replaced as a direct failure of the covered part which was the rotor.

 

Many times a good dealer will do more or even fudge things to help a customer. My fathers Oldmobile [make your own joke] had his computer ecu go out after the 50,000 mile warranty. the dealer fudged his miles and went ahead and took care of it.

Often many other items are taken care of due to related parts and sometimes they are not as it is up to the dealer. Many items on the engine can be replaced under the Emissions warranty and many people think they are just being nice.

The bottom line is how good is the dealer you are working with.

Key note is many service writers and service managers anymore have never turned a wrench in their life. It is difficult to get qualified peope for service departments due to the lack of trained mechanics. Seems too many people don't want to get dirty anymore.

 

Was just planning on switching my SS front brakes onto my panel, but a quick measurement say's it already has the same size rotors, Did they upgrade the brakes on the 2LT already with the sport suspension package ?

 

IMPALADAKID two things.

First; Paragraphs, just saying.

Second; almost everything you state is true, except the alignments. Your manual tells you they are only covered to 7500 miles.


To all:

This is from Technical Service Bulletin #00-05-22-002M. The area in red is the important part. This bulletin is like 8 pages long. I am only putting the warranty information in this post.

BRAKE WARRANTY

Brake Rotors:

• Brake rotor warranty is covered under the terms of the GM New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Reference the vehicle's warranty guide for verification.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced during normal/routine pad replacement.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced and is ineffective in correcting brake squeal type noises and/or premature lining wear out.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced for cosmetic corrosion. Clean up of braking surfaces can be accomplished by 10–15 moderate stops from 56-64 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between stops.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced for rotor discoloration/hard spots.

• Rotors should be refinished NOT replaced for Customer Pulsation concerns. This condition is a result of rotor thickness variation, usually caused by LRO (wear induced over time and miles) or corrosion (Lot Rot).

• When rotor refinishing, only remove the necessary amount of material from each side of the rotor and note that equal amounts of material do not have to be removed from both sides on any brake system using a floating caliper.

• Rotors should be refinished for severe scoring — depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in).

Important: If the scoring depth is more than 1.5 mm (0.060 in) after the rotor is refinished, it should be replaced.

• It is not necessary to replace rotors in pairs. Rotors may be replaced individually. However, caution should be exercised, as a variance in surface finish may cause a brake pull condition.

• New rotors should not be refinished before installation. Original equipment rotor surfaces are ground to ensure smooth finish and parallelism between mounting and friction surfaces. If a new rotor has more than 0.050 mm (0.002 in) Lateral Run Out (LRO) when properly mounted on the hub, correct it using one of the following methods:

5.1 For hubless rotor designs, use the correction plate procedure found in the “GM Brake Service Procedure for Hubless Rotors” outlined in this bulletin.

5.2 For hubbed/trapped/captured rotor designs, refinish the rotor using an On-Car lathe and the procedure outlined in this bulletin.

• Never reuse rotors that measure under the Minimum Thickness specification. In this instance, the rotor should be replaced.

Important: If the Minimum Thickness specification is not visible on the rotor, reference Service Information (SI) for the specific vehicle application. DO NOT use any other manufacturers rotor specifications.

 

I was kinda bouncing around a bit, and forego the paragraphs.

I think my warranty covered alignment did come around 1500 miles.