Warped rotors issue - NEED HELP ASAP
Senior Member
Joined: 08-06-2008
Posts: 1,761
From: Grand Haven, MI
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
He may be referring to the times here after a hard stop brake pad material will stick to a rotor surface when it is hot.
What happens is the after a hard stop say off a off ramp or in traffic the rotors can get super hot. What happens then is you sit with your foot on the brake putting the pads on the super heated surface. depending on the pad make up some pads will embed the material or bond to the rotor surface. You may not see it but the material is there.
Then what happens is the material will grab everytime the pads come in contact with it hence the so called warp feel.
Normally using good pads and bedding or seating them in will coat the rotors evenly with pad material and it will prevent this from happening. But even bedded in pads with cheap filler in them can still stick to the rotor.
What I have and I have seen others do is take the vehicle out on a back road and make a series of hard stops similar to bedding or seating them in.
Also I have see people sand or take a abrasice to the rotor surface and clean them.
Racers will take a set of very aggreissive pads and run them a short while to clean rotors up at the track during practice and change back for the race.
All of these can work and they may not depending on the conditions of the rotors and pad or even the quality of the pad.
I have in the past picked up just a small shudder and after a week or two it goes away.
To prevent this I always bed my pads anymore use high quality pads that use no cheap fillers. I also try not to stand on the pedal after a hard stop at a stop sign or light if I can. Just sitting there with the pads on the hot rotors is where most of the damage is done. If I know they are really hot I will pop in to neutral if I can.
Note this is not every last detail or even the only cause for the pulse in a brake. This is just one of the issues after a hard stop that could make this condition happen.
Snoopy can fill in anything I may have missed. I know he has all the details and I just was taking a stab at what I thought he was speaking of.
What happens is the after a hard stop say off a off ramp or in traffic the rotors can get super hot. What happens then is you sit with your foot on the brake putting the pads on the super heated surface. depending on the pad make up some pads will embed the material or bond to the rotor surface. You may not see it but the material is there.
Then what happens is the material will grab everytime the pads come in contact with it hence the so called warp feel.
Normally using good pads and bedding or seating them in will coat the rotors evenly with pad material and it will prevent this from happening. But even bedded in pads with cheap filler in them can still stick to the rotor.
What I have and I have seen others do is take the vehicle out on a back road and make a series of hard stops similar to bedding or seating them in.
Also I have see people sand or take a abrasice to the rotor surface and clean them.
Racers will take a set of very aggreissive pads and run them a short while to clean rotors up at the track during practice and change back for the race.
All of these can work and they may not depending on the conditions of the rotors and pad or even the quality of the pad.
I have in the past picked up just a small shudder and after a week or two it goes away.
To prevent this I always bed my pads anymore use high quality pads that use no cheap fillers. I also try not to stand on the pedal after a hard stop at a stop sign or light if I can. Just sitting there with the pads on the hot rotors is where most of the damage is done. If I know they are really hot I will pop in to neutral if I can.
Note this is not every last detail or even the only cause for the pulse in a brake. This is just one of the issues after a hard stop that could make this condition happen.
Snoopy can fill in anything I may have missed. I know he has all the details and I just was taking a stab at what I thought he was speaking of.
Premium Member
Joined: 10-09-2010
Posts: 14,420
From: Tacoma
Senior Member
Joined: 06-26-2006
Posts: 1,876
From: San Bernardino, California
That's up to you. Personally, I wouldn't pick dimpled, slotted, or drilled rotors, but that's just me and I'm not going to be the one to (once again) open that can of worms.....
Last edited by db/sb; Oct 6, 2012 at 03:55 PM.
Platinum Member
Joined: 05-09-2006
Posts: 6,805
From: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
He may be referring to the times here after a hard stop brake pad material will stick to a rotor surface when it is hot.
What happens is the after a hard stop say off a off ramp or in traffic the rotors can get super hot. What happens then is you sit with your foot on the brake putting the pads on the super heated surface. depending on the pad make up some pads will embed the material or bond to the rotor surface. You may not see it but the material is there.
Then what happens is the material will grab everytime the pads come in contact with it hence the so called warp feel.
Normally using good pads and bedding or seating them in will coat the rotors evenly with pad material and it will prevent this from happening. But even bedded in pads with cheap filler in them can still stick to the rotor.
What I have and I have seen others do is take the vehicle out on a back road and make a series of hard stops similar to bedding or seating them in.
Also I have see people sand or take a abrasice to the rotor surface and clean them.
Racers will take a set of very aggreissive pads and run them a short while to clean rotors up at the track during practice and change back for the race.
All of these can work and they may not depending on the conditions of the rotors and pad or even the quality of the pad.
I have in the past picked up just a small shudder and after a week or two it goes away.
To prevent this I always bed my pads anymore use high quality pads that use no cheap fillers. I also try not to stand on the pedal after a hard stop at a stop sign or light if I can. Just sitting there with the pads on the hot rotors is where most of the damage is done. If I know they are really hot I will pop in to neutral if I can.
Note this is not every last detail or even the only cause for the pulse in a brake. This is just one of the issues after a hard stop that could make this condition happen.
Snoopy can fill in anything I may have missed. I know he has all the details and I just was taking a stab at what I thought he was speaking of.
What happens is the after a hard stop say off a off ramp or in traffic the rotors can get super hot. What happens then is you sit with your foot on the brake putting the pads on the super heated surface. depending on the pad make up some pads will embed the material or bond to the rotor surface. You may not see it but the material is there.
Then what happens is the material will grab everytime the pads come in contact with it hence the so called warp feel.
Normally using good pads and bedding or seating them in will coat the rotors evenly with pad material and it will prevent this from happening. But even bedded in pads with cheap filler in them can still stick to the rotor.
What I have and I have seen others do is take the vehicle out on a back road and make a series of hard stops similar to bedding or seating them in.
Also I have see people sand or take a abrasice to the rotor surface and clean them.
Racers will take a set of very aggreissive pads and run them a short while to clean rotors up at the track during practice and change back for the race.
All of these can work and they may not depending on the conditions of the rotors and pad or even the quality of the pad.
I have in the past picked up just a small shudder and after a week or two it goes away.
To prevent this I always bed my pads anymore use high quality pads that use no cheap fillers. I also try not to stand on the pedal after a hard stop at a stop sign or light if I can. Just sitting there with the pads on the hot rotors is where most of the damage is done. If I know they are really hot I will pop in to neutral if I can.
Note this is not every last detail or even the only cause for the pulse in a brake. This is just one of the issues after a hard stop that could make this condition happen.
Snoopy can fill in anything I may have missed. I know he has all the details and I just was taking a stab at what I thought he was speaking of.
In fact, in another thread you were specific about the application of brake burnish.
I will add one thing re: brAKE brEAK in.
I was talking with one of the durability engineers about the criticisms. He only had 2 comments. .....other than mentioning, "hey it can happen".
(1)It is strange that GM hardly ever encounters brake "warp" on any of the test or durability vehicles. (2) Maybe the brakes are not "conditioned" appropriately on the vehicles/parts when new (all test and durability vehicles experience a prescribed and regulated brake protocol before they begin testing for other evaluations. Following this protocol is probably how I negated having any brake problems for about 30 years.)
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
The reason GM never see any warp issues may be because the rotors really are not warped.
It is possible warp cast iron a a little but not much as it will crack. Generally it is due to poor torque of the lugs or even the head bolts on a engine.
Generally heat is not the cause as I have seen rotors get glowing red hot on many a car and they are not warped.
Carol Smith and many others in racing claim rotors will not warp and Carol in his artical calls it a myth. He was one of the prime movers of the Ford GT 40 program. I have also head this from most brake MFG's too.
Even if a rotor does warp the floating caliper will follow it once the pads are set.
Anyways I too started to seat or brunish the pads in on all my cars when new and when I replace the pads and I have eliminated any issue since.
I try to pass along the word on what solves it and some people understand and eliminate it while others spend a lot of money on fancy rotors and repair only to have it return.
The key is to address the problem not the symptom.
It is possible warp cast iron a a little but not much as it will crack. Generally it is due to poor torque of the lugs or even the head bolts on a engine.
Generally heat is not the cause as I have seen rotors get glowing red hot on many a car and they are not warped.
Carol Smith and many others in racing claim rotors will not warp and Carol in his artical calls it a myth. He was one of the prime movers of the Ford GT 40 program. I have also head this from most brake MFG's too.
Even if a rotor does warp the floating caliper will follow it once the pads are set.
Anyways I too started to seat or brunish the pads in on all my cars when new and when I replace the pads and I have eliminated any issue since.
I try to pass along the word on what solves it and some people understand and eliminate it while others spend a lot of money on fancy rotors and repair only to have it return.
The key is to address the problem not the symptom.
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
If you want the best performing get the plain. If you want the best looking get what ever dimples or slotted you like.
Avoid the drilled as they can lead to issues if driven hard. Most are not recomended for any kind of track use even the Brembo.
My SS is not a show car and a daily driver. I get discounts through work to the point I could buy the best sloted and Dimples rotors for prices most would kill for. My choice is the solids.
It is just a matter of what you want.
Premium Member
Joined: 10-09-2010
Posts: 14,420
From: Tacoma
I like these but John say's the caliper needs modification. And I dont think I'll be going 180 on the straights
I might get to a couple shows next year, but I would rather stop good than look cool. I will get the premium solid ones, 
thanks for the advice.
I might get to a couple shows next year, but I would rather stop good than look cool. I will get the premium solid ones, thanks for the advice.
Platinum Member
Joined: 05-09-2006
Posts: 6,805
From: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
The reason GM never see any warp issues may be because the rotors really are not warped.
It is possible warp cast iron a a little but not much as it will crack. Generally it is due to poor torque of the lugs or even the head bolts on a engine.
Generally heat is not the cause as I have seen rotors get glowing red hot on many a car and they are not warped.
Carol Smith and many others in racing claim rotors will not warp and Carol in his artical calls it a myth. He was one of the prime movers of the Ford GT 40 program. I have also head this from most brake MFG's too.
Even if a rotor does warp the floating caliper will follow it once the pads are set.
Anyways I too started to seat or brunish the pads in on all my cars when new and when I replace the pads and I have eliminated any issue since.
I try to pass along the word on what solves it and some people understand and eliminate it while others spend a lot of money on fancy rotors and repair only to have it return.
The key is to address the problem not the symptom.
It is possible warp cast iron a a little but not much as it will crack. Generally it is due to poor torque of the lugs or even the head bolts on a engine.
Generally heat is not the cause as I have seen rotors get glowing red hot on many a car and they are not warped.
Carol Smith and many others in racing claim rotors will not warp and Carol in his artical calls it a myth. He was one of the prime movers of the Ford GT 40 program. I have also head this from most brake MFG's too.
Even if a rotor does warp the floating caliper will follow it once the pads are set.
Anyways I too started to seat or brunish the pads in on all my cars when new and when I replace the pads and I have eliminated any issue since.
I try to pass along the word on what solves it and some people understand and eliminate it while others spend a lot of money on fancy rotors and repair only to have it return.
The key is to address the problem not the symptom.
The real point to his comments and my post is many people just do not start the life of their new vehicle, or new brake job, correctly. You have mentioned it many times in previous posts in similar threads. But being the stubborn gender that we are, most men THINK they know how to break in a vehicle. It's kind of like, most men think they are the greatest drivers. When in reality they are average or slightly above.
Joined: 10-05-2012
Posts: 3
From: League City
New guy.. actually searched this board out because of this topic. Have a 2009 HHR LS 5spd with 92K miles on it, and yeah original brake pads and rotors. Rotors are giving a bit of a shimie so figured I would check and see what others are doing about it. I like the option about upgrading to the SS rotors. Interesting to read about the issues. :)
- DB
- DB