donbrew

Now that I know I should use seal protectors, I got the new axles today. But, wait the axles I got have FEMALE splines on the inner end. All I have to go by is the 2006 service manual that shows MALE splines on both ends.

This is a 2008 HHR LT automatic, has any body done axles to be sure I got the right parts? Or does anybody have the service manual for 2008?

And, if I have the right parts, does this mean I don't need a slide hammer to remove the axles, or seal protectors?

843de

Everything I can find including a couple of photos on Google seems to indicate that the tripod/inner CV joints have internal splines, you can double check your parts numbers with the site I've linked below...just do a "Keyword" search.

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/productSe...ukey_make=1024

Since the tripod joints are held together by the rubber boot you need to pull on the joint itself or carefully pry against the differential case to get them to pop out. It shouldn't take too much force to get them to come out for you.

donbrew

I have "complete" axles includes "tripot". By inner end I mean the part that goes into the transmission. That was my first check. New shafts without the tripot are only about $45 each, but I figured my time must be worth something?

Nalley parts diagram shows both male and female ends.

donbrew

How can I narrow down the right part! The GM service manual shows both. The GM parts catalog seems to show both.

843de

I believe the diagrams are inaccurate as they sometimes are, this might be something keyed to the VIN of the vehicle, I'd call the dealer on Monday to double check.

donbrew

Turns out that the right side axle has a "stub" that attaches to the end, making it male. The left side just stays female. No slide hammer needed. No seal protectors needed.

843de

I'd been wondering about the status of this project, thanks for the update, and the info tidbit to file away for future reference.

donbrew

I should add that you need a "special" tool to get the stub off, I think that a 1.25" muffler clamp would work, but a "bearing splitter" is the correct tool. This is only for AT, because manuals have different length axles L/R, I assUme no stub is needed.