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Maybe, if you made a coherent statement we could help.
4K in parts sound like a lot more than replacing a shift solenoid.
My wild guess based on no real information is that some wires got mixed up or the oil feed tube is cracked
Maybe, if you made a coherent statement we could help.
4K in parts sound like a lot more than replacing a shift solenoid.
My wild guess based on no real information is that some wires got mixed up or the oil feed tube is cracked
checked the oil feed tube's, no damage...
top shift solenoid was burnt, converter solenoid wasn't correctly in place, sorted all that out, think the issue is that the car thinks it's in neutral which will allow it to still start, but when u go to shift gears it's not correct, have new park neutral switch coming today, replaced every sensor i can get to, ecm the tcm calipers, everyone said it would be easy, just time consuming, its been a nightmare, at my last straw, for such a simple car its a major pain in the a$$
If that link isn’t positioned correctly, you aren’t going anywhere!
oh yes went thru that the first go around, have dropped the sub frame n done this so many times it only takes bout 4hrs total now, almost to Nascar pit crew level, wondering if the tourqe converter might be shot, or whole trans shot, 320k miles on her... have rebuilt the whole front suspension, all the motor trans mounts, every sensor, and still no go..
What I haven't tried tho, is resetting the steering position sensor, clear codes, or replace shifter assembly/cable...
Now I unbolted the remaining transmission mount. I reached up from the wheel well and removed the bolts, which are mounted from above. It was easy to do by feel. I then lowered the transmission until it looked like the cover would clear the wheel well opening. I turned the adjustment on the tall jack stands and it lowered the transmission. Watch carefully for any interference from hoses or wires (I didn't have any). The exhaust flex joint didn't really bend, the whole front part of the exhaust system dropped with the engine. I also had to drop the subframe another inch or two because the lower transmission cover bolts were now starting to go behind the subframe again as the trans is dropped.Here is a picture with the transmission dropped:
I made a homemade catch pan by hanging a bin box that I had under the transmission cover so it would catch the fluid as it came out:
I am doing this same job except on my car I have a base plate for a tow bar and it sticks thru the front facia. Only about 1/2” clearance and the base plate mounting bars are under the front sub frame bolts. So it looks to me like I am going to have to remove the tow bar and the front facia of the car. I did all that when I put it on but I can remember what all is involved. Is there a post or link where someone shows doing this?
Looks like the shift solenoid (2-3) has failed on one of my HHRs.
There should be 19-31 ohms resistance between the +12V line and the control line to the solenoid, but there is only about 3 ohms (which is probably the wiring resistance in the harness). This was checked at the connector to the TCM.
When I disconnect the harness at the transmission, the resistance at the TCM connector jumps to infinity. Which indicates that there is no short in the harness, the problem is inside the tranny.
The part is cheap ($20) but requires a lot of labor (around 7 hours) because the side cover won't come off without dropping the cradle and tranny. I am going to do it myself because it would cost too much to have it done and its not difficult, just time-consuming.
There is actually a video on youtube where a guy doesn't drop the cradle, but just pulls the cover off the trans enough to get at the solenoid. Don't know if I want to try this first.
My question is: Should I replace the 1-2 shift solenoid and the TCC solenoid while it is apart? anything else I should replace?
Thanks
Steve
I know this is an old thread but I have a few questions. First, were you able to change all the shift solenoids with just dropping the pan and getting the side panel off just enough to change them or did you have to take cradle off? Second, is the shift solenoids going out a common problem with HHR’s? I ask because mines only got 140k miles on it and I’ve not seen this issue with any of my other cars that have way more miles on them. I’ve got code p0700 for the TCM (which I had about 2 years ago and was able to correct with just a fuse) and the p0977 2-3 shift solenoid high.
… is the shift solenoids going out a common problem with HHR’s?
No more so that the countless other GM cars that use this type of transmission control, or any other transmission that uses solenoids, for that matter. I’ll go out a limb here and say that the most common failure point on a solenoid is the coil. Life has a lot to do with the initial quality.
Sadly, many many transmissions are replaced or rebuilt when the only problem is a failed solenoid. This is particularly true with 2.2 and 2.4 L (non-turbo) Ecotecs because the transmissions are overkill for most of those applications and typically out last the rest of the car.
A appropriately spec’ed solenoid coil made of high-quality wire with consistent insulation and diameter. properly wound and embedded in resin, should last indefinitely unless it’s subjected to transients from a defective electrical system. A coil with low Ohms has developed a short. That can happen if insulation and/or resin melts, or is burned away by internal arcing, which can be cause by a quality problem or transients due to a defective electrical system.
Solenoid coils rarely have a predictable life. The only thing you can really say is that low quality ones will fail sooner and more randomly than good ones. Therefor, if I replaced a good OEM solenoid, I would make sure it was with the very best quality available.
I’ve been a GM guy for most of my longish life and I have never had a GM transmission fail in any way.
Last edited by PulpFriction; Feb 10, 2025 at 06:06 PM.
