Any problems with roof rail removal?
#1
Any problems with roof rail removal?
I'm planning to lose the roof rails this weekend and I've been reading the how to's and other related threads. This one - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/how-remove-roof-rails-15361/ - was especially helpful (thanks, Tony).
Just wanted to ask around to HHRs who have taken their factory-installed side roof rails off ... have any of you guys had leak problems? I don't plan on doing any body work to seal them up, just going to buy some plugs and put some kind of sealant on before I screw them in.
Just wanted to ask around to HHRs who have taken their factory-installed side roof rails off ... have any of you guys had leak problems? I don't plan on doing any body work to seal them up, just going to buy some plugs and put some kind of sealant on before I screw them in.
#3
I removed mine back in April and have no problems with leaking. I used a healthy amount of silcone when plugging the holes...picked up some plastic body plugs from Autozone and it looks much better IMO without them. I've got to find a product to get the residue that's left behind by the endcaps though so if you have any luck there shoot me a PM. I've tried goo gone and wax...tried polishing compound too but that was too abrasive.
#5
Chef - for me, plastic plugs were crap. They didn't fit into the holes correctly, and I wasn't going to force them only to end up with leaking in the future.
Luckily, my neighbor is a race car builder (he races a '58 Devin Echidna with a Vette 427 under the hood) and he had the machinery for me to borrow, so I used his 1930's metalworking lathe to machine down the tops of the stock bolts (the ones that held the roof rails in place) so they would fit inside of the wide opening of the hole. I used a bunch of clear silicone, and now they sit in there flush with the openings on the roof. Looks real nice! (I have no pics yet, unfortunately).
I still have to paint the openings so they blend into the roof even more. Bought some OEM paint touch-up from a local Chev dealership (cost an arm and a leg, damn criminals) so I will post some pics whenever I get around to painting them.
Thanks again for your help!
Luckily, my neighbor is a race car builder (he races a '58 Devin Echidna with a Vette 427 under the hood) and he had the machinery for me to borrow, so I used his 1930's metalworking lathe to machine down the tops of the stock bolts (the ones that held the roof rails in place) so they would fit inside of the wide opening of the hole. I used a bunch of clear silicone, and now they sit in there flush with the openings on the roof. Looks real nice! (I have no pics yet, unfortunately).
I still have to paint the openings so they blend into the roof even more. Bought some OEM paint touch-up from a local Chev dealership (cost an arm and a leg, damn criminals) so I will post some pics whenever I get around to painting them.
Thanks again for your help!
#6
I do Marine applications all the time and this is the way to remove it.
Go to Costco or the grocery store and get some Bounty white paper towels.
I have used these for years and they are the best and not abrasive.
When you apply the silicone to what ever .. don't spare the material too much so that you seal completely what it is your sealing.
Install and tighten down or fasten securely to where you squeeze out all the excess onto the painted top surface of the HHR.
Have extra sheets of towels ready to use.
Find an appropriate tool ie. a small thin putty knife or a small flat/slotted screw driver that does not have sharp corners or edges. Your need a tool that will not damage the painted surface to remove the excess silicone.
Don't dilly dally around once you have sqweezed out the sealant.
Use your tool immediatly and gently remove all the material you can by cleaning it up manually. Wipe as clean as you can with the tool. Go right up tight to all the edges.
Next use the paper towels to wipe the remaining material off right up to the edges of the fasteners/plugs or what ever.
Don't try to use one paper towel sheet with used material on it too long as you will accidently re-deposit material.
Because you are working on a polyurethane clear coat paint you can finish up with a clean rag or paper towel with or without a little acetone if needed.
Just don't wet the towel too much so that you saturate the edge of what you are cleaning.
Use your Eye to determine the quality of your effort. Do any additional clean up at that time because if you leave any missed or botched spots you will then have a problem finishing the job.
I would use Clear Silicone and a Marine Grade would be preferred.
Good Luck.
SF
Last edited by Silverfox; 11-29-2012 at 11:58 AM.
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