Update- Walmart replaced the battery no questions asked. I've had it in 3 days now and have checked voltage first thing in morning and it's been 12.7 volts

Bad news is the car still has the voltage drop. I'm thinking about finding a low mileage hhr on ebay and grabbing the alternator just to try. Is there a voltage regulator in my alternator that can be checked somehow with my meter? I've tested the diode and it's good and it show charging good on my battery tester.

Something else I wanted to mention. I checked resistance from the negative post on battery to the spot where the negative cable anchors and get a reading of 5.0 ohms. I've sanded and cleaned the where it connects to the chasis but still reading 5.0 ohms. Also checked the ground under the hood at rad support and inner fender drivers side and those read the same resistance at 5.0 ohms.

I understand the resistance reading should be close to or at zero. It appears that factory battery ground location is not a great one. How do I get a better ground? Move the ground? where's the best spot?

Would it be worth spending the money to buy new OEM ground cables for the front and back?

FYI- fuel pressure regulator in this NEW fuel pump I put in I believe is shot! Can't hold fuel pressure when car is off. It drops off fast like in a matter of 20-30 seconds from 62 down to about 10psi. Not a drop of fuel or leak anywhere. I don't even smell gas. Pulled fuel rail and checked injectors and absolutely fine. Can maintain 60-62psi when running it's just if car sits gotta let the pump do the entire prime. You can hear no fuel in line then it primes and starts fine.

I am so ticked off right now. RA gave me another under warranty last time and now no more options on their website to do it again. I've done fuel pumps in all my history of cars. It's not rocket science. I think parts are more and more crap now even the good brand names.

 

No voltage regulator, the computer does that.
Are the battery terminals tight? They are easy to break and not notice.
Not the the fuel pressure regulator there is a check valve to hold pressure in the pump. Supposed to not decrease greater than 5 psi in 1 minute after key off.

 

yes, terminals tight, grounds tight. I even replaced the current sensor.

5 psi in a minute? Heck, mine drops 5 psi in about 3 seconds. I put pressure gauge directly on the 3 foot piece of line coming from fuel pump/tank to bypass all the line up to the engine. I still have the drop. I also tested just that piece of line off the pump with a mighty vac and no leaks. Surely, if it was the line anywhere leaking under pressure I'm convinced you would smell gas and or see a leak. I'm certain the check valve in the fuel pump isn't working. It was fine for days and then this past weekend not fine.

Anyways, it looks like you can only make one warranty return with RA. No options anywhere to get a replacement on an already replaced pump. Any way I can replace the check valve in the assembly?

 

Probably not.
re: the resistance reading. Unclear what you are testing. If you disconnect the negative cable and put one lead on ground point and one on the free end of the cable you are measuring the resistance of the cable, that should be 0. Resistance from any negative point on a module to ground should be 0. If you don't disconnect the negative post you are reading totally meaningless info.

 

I want to measure the resistance of the factory grounding point to the negative post on battery. I was putting black lead on negative post and the other lead to the grounding point but did not disconnect the negative cable.

 

meaningless data

 

so I'm disconnecting negative cable from battery and putting a lead to the clamp and then another lead to the factory ground point? This will measure resistance of the cable?

All I'm trying to do is make sure the factory ground from the battery to the grounding point is good. Whichever way is the best way to determine that, I'm all ears.

Would voltage check work better? Red lead on positive battery post, black lead on grounding point? Should get same voltage reading as the battery. I can check the front grounding points the same way by running a long wire back to battery positive and putting meter on the same way.

 

fuel pump update- RA will not send me another fuel pump. They will however issue me a full refund if I send the pump back. Delphi was their top of the line pump so there are no other options for pumps with them. So that means I have to buy a pump somewhere else at a reasonable price which eliminates any chain store unless you want to buy junk! Then I'll have to send the delphi back to RA.

Summit Racing has quality pumps with decent prices. Ac delco, Carter, Delphi. Which of these pumps is the better of the three? All priced at about or near the same price as the Delphi through RA.

 

AC Delco is a good choice.

 

Thanks Oldblue! I have to ask and should have asked earlier. Is the fuel tank vent line completely independent from the pressure line? What I mean is, if there were a leak in the vent line it would not cause pressure loss in the pressure line correct? Also, a leak in the vent line would more than likely cause an EVAP code beings it wouldn't be able to seal on a vac test, correct? I"ve done a purge solenoid test with the vent valve closed and and the vacuum readings and pressure sensor readings all function properly and it hold vac.

Rockauto and Summit both want to argue with me saying that it's something in my car and not the pump. Neither of them will support the idea that there's an issue with the Delphi pumps. I replaced all the lines with the nylon kit last year. Besides, if there were a leak in the pressure line enough to lose the pressure like i'm losing it there would be fuel leaking somewhere. And a leak in the vent line would throw a evap code. And injectors the car would have running issues and I pulled fuel rail and watched for 30 mins while I kept pressurizing and they didn't leak.

Am I correct with my reasoning?