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All symptoms you state indicate a bad fuel pump assembly.
the vapour line is separate from the pressure line.
any fuel leak would produce fumes and starting issues.
replace the fuel pump and if possible return the Delphi to RA
Waiting for my new fuel pump. Been driving the car with the defective one in it since it only seemed to be a pressure issue on start up. Did manage to eliminate the voltage drop when applying brakes. I removed the alternator and cleaned where it mounts to engine. Lights no longer dim when applying brakes anymore and the fuel pump does not slow down anymore when applying brakes either. I also put new ground cables on from engine to rad support and from battery post to main ground point.
While car was idling in driveway I could hear the fuel pump start slowing down just sitting in the driveway and I just figured its part of whatever is wrong with the pump. I've checked alternator voltage at the very beginning of this journey and voltage was 14.2 and it stuck there. I checked it again tonight and it was at 12.9v with car running and no accessories on. Will this car have different alternator voltages at any given time? This seems way too low to me. Stood there and watched it with the meter on it and eventually it climbed slowly back to about 14.19. Then out of nowhere slowly dropped back to 12.5. After about 3-4 mins it raised back to 13.2
I know the computer is constantly adjusting this voltage to better maintain the battery but is this behavior normal? Doesn't seem right.
Ok got it. So, when I was checking the voltage I disconnected that current sensor just to see if there was any kind of fluctuation and there was none. Is that normal?
Yes Donbrew, this car has me super paranoid and I do tend to agonize because I'm tire of changing these darn fuel pumps. Well, as much as I don't want to post this, i'm going to anyways. I've fixed 75% of the problems throughout the years with the help of this site.,
Got in car today to go to work and noticed a very hot plastic smell. This immediately sent me into a frenzy. First reaction was to disconnect the battery before I saw flames. As I walked to back of car I noticed the 3rd brake light was illuminated. It must have been on all night because the glass on back window was so hot you could barely touch it. The plastic around the light was hot and soft and making the smell.
Other brake lights were not illuminated and come on as they should when you step on brake so I don't think it's the switch. The stop lamp fuse in BCM was blown and I replaced it and it did not blow. I then pulled every single fuse and relay one at a time to get that 3rd brake light to turn off and it stayed lit. Out of frustration and being late for work now, I just disconnected the wire harness and went to work.
Found some older posts on here talking about cruise control and where the relay is hidden. Went to lunch and tried the cruise control and it does not work. Haven't had the chance to get another relay yet. If that relay is bad would that make the 3rd brake light come on? I didn't do anything to the car except check that alternator voltage last night and it was dark. I know that 3rd brake light was not on when I walked away.
I encourage you to download the shop manual from my sig at charm.li. There are wiring diagrams in it. You will find that the third light is on a different circuit from the mains.
The relay is in that box on the driver side strut tower, the fuse is #9 on the BCM.
The cruise control checks the resistance of the third brake light.
Donbrew, that is a great resource. Much thanks for providing that for everyone! The 3rd brake light is out now. I did take the bulbs out and reinstalled and that seems to have solve the problem so maybe one of the bulbs shorting out??? Probably just get all new ones and put them in. For now, it's not an issue and will worry about it if it happens again.
Was late for work today again. Fuel pump would not come on when i turned key. It's been doing it more and more. The new pump also came today but I won't have time to get it in till the weekend most likely. Something I hadn't done yet which was check the voltage at the pump relay in the fuse box. With key on I'm only getting 10.7 volts testing the two pins you would use to jumper the pump I think 85 & 87. Shouldn't this be 12 volts? Is that defective pump causing that voltage drop?
86 should be 12+ volts. 85 should go to ground. Check the voltage on 86 and ground to body. Check the battery voltage at the front lug of the fuse box.
87 goes to the pump, 30 should be 12+ volts.
The lt green wire is the trigger from the computer
