It takes X amount of energy to start the vehicle. Right after startup, the alternator should be pushing around 14.5 volts. It takes X amount of time to generate that energy. Having a physically larger battery doesn't change how long it should take to charge.

You have a problem with the charging system, or maybe a parasitic drain, or perhaps you only drive a few miles per day..

 

So all SS should be going up to 14-15v? And not just 13.4v?

 

Yes.
And learn about 12 volt charging systems. Voltage is just part of the equation. Amperage is the other.

 

Why do you think 1150CCA is better than 750CCA? Does the car have a 400 HP diesel engine? If you need that much you better be beefing the wires up to about 1/0 AWG.
The starter draws the amps it needs, the fuse is 30 amps, my guess is the starter draws about 22A when the engine is below freezing.

 

Got the 1150cca for $120. Each car has one. Couldn't pass it up. I already cleaned the alternator to starter connections both sides when I took it out to swap the oil pressure sensor. So the problem may be somewhere else

 

There is one other point of concern. I went with the group 47 battery because I could still use both hold down clamps. I mentioned this in a thread years ago, some folks were going with a group 48, which is longer, like yours, and you can't use the clamp on the end.

My concern isn't really about losing the use of the clamp, but it's the raised section of sheet metal that helped retain the clamp. The battery is sitting on top of this bump, point loading, which theoretically, from vibrations, could wear a hole in the bottom of the battery.

I suppose one could hammer down that bump, or put something under the battery to shim it up. Your battery is already so tall, how does the spare tire cover fit over it?

 

I'm pretty sure my alternator went bad because of the coolant spilling on it every time I burped the cooling system or otherwise added coolant. I'm much more careful now.

The chain auto parts stores will test your charging system for free.

 

I had to take out the rear lower plastic piece. The one that goes around the middle metal latch for the trunk/hatch. It clears everything else. Not a real necessary item IMO.

I've dripped some coolant on the alternator. It is half water so it can't be good but the alt in my 2010 LT has 225k and still pumping out 15v lol

 

The regulator controls how much voltage is produced. A computer controlled regulator can vary the voltage based on demand, A dumb regulator just puts out what it is set to. Nominal battery voltage is 12.7 volts so why put out more?
The alternator only charges the battery if the battery goes below some preset threshold, otherwise it is supplying the power to run the cars electronics.
Your battery is probably demanding more amps than the alternator can supply. The important bit of data is the Amp Hours of the battery then you can calculate the amps needed to charge it and the amp that are too much.
For instance: you can't charge a LI-ion battery with a charger design to charge a Ni-Cad battery, the amp rates are different.