Seems as the only alignment stuff you need to touch is with the outer tie rod jam nut and outer tie rod, which can basically be done with 3-4 tools?

I'm sure this isn't something easy but hear me out...what if you just placed something on the front lug nut, got both in the same spot, and put some sort of guide/rod/etc on them so they hit the same spot on both sides equally?

Or is there more to an alignment?

 

Theoretically this would work as there is no adjustment for castor or camber. Driving my HHR for about 3,000 miles and wore out a set of new tires, I had the alignment done once I fixed the problem. I had to prove that the alignment was correct when they put the new tires on. I had to pay for both sets and they have been fine ever since.

 

Only alignment adjustments are the toe at the outer tie rod ends

 

You should be able to do it yersef with just the tie rod ends. Do not attempt to fool with the steering wheel. Get it straight with... the tie rod ends.

There are various approaches to improvising - sticks, strings. Extra hands needed.

You want just a bit of toe-in. Look up the spec if you must. I think I once calculated that at spec, the difference between the front and back of the tire is about 1/32". Maybe it was 1/32-1/16". Tell me the angle and I'll do the trig for you.

 

However, Camber can get whacked out from incorrectly made LCAs and should be checked, it is possible to adjust with a "camber kit" a couple of offset bolts

 

Actually the fwd cars are best at zero toe or just a little bit of toe out. I measured from tread centre to tread centre, the confirmed the measurement was equal from LCA rear bolt to centre tread was equal. I used a 21 mm socket and a measuring tape. Mine was 40 cm or 15 3/4 inches and across the is 59 3/4” . This will be different from car to car as wheel offset and such will be different.

 

To end debate:

 

Thank you, Donbrew +0.20 degrees positive toe total .

 

I had a pair of bad LCA's and that is what destroyed my brand new tires. I replaced the LCA's and had alignment checked and adjusted and replaced the tires. Had to prove alignment was fixed so I could get the warranty on the new tires. it wasn't cheap even when I did the LCA replacement labor. I have 2 sets of the 'camber adjustment bolts' in case I needed them. They are sitting on a shelf unused.

 

+.20 degrees total toe works out to about .09" less between the centers of the front of the two tires than the back. I would like to be on the low side without getting too close to zero.

Don't trust the tire treads to be perfect; do a bunch of averaging. It's easier to be precise by measuring at the inside of the rim edges. There, the difference for 17" rims is about .062 or 1/16". And you need to fudge these numbers a bit of course because you may not quite be able to get to the horizontal centerline, i.e., the most forward and rearward points on the wheel. (Text in italics edited for clarity.)