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Remote Start Fails After 10 Seconds

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Old May 8, 2025 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
firemangeorge's Avatar
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So the answer to my question is NO. You have not checked the actual oil pressure. Low oil pressure after startup is one of the few faults that shut down the engine after remote starting.
Most of the other faults like a powertrain CEL or hood ajar will not allow the remote start to engage at all.
Not sure what checking compression has to do with anything remote start related (unless you had a P0300 code for misfire. That may shutdown remote start. Not 100% sure on that)
Old May 8, 2025 | 10:22 AM
  #22  
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Hi, you are correct, I haven't checked the oil pressure, I don't have a scan tool tablet to do that, I do have a code scanner don't think it has this feature but will look when I get home. Also I did a compression test just to get a general health of the engine, again I have no CEL codes on and no history of any CEL codes. I would think if I did have a low oil pressure problem the remote start would not work at all, this is not the case after replacing the fuse and relay the remote start works better and even before I replaced the fuse and relay the remote start would work sometimes and continue to run. Now with the replacement of the fuse and relay the remote start works 3 times out of 5 tries even when the engine is stone cold. Again guys, thanks for your help here and I will try any of your suggestions to get this resolved, Mark
Old May 8, 2025 | 11:55 AM
  #23  
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Resetting the security consists of starting the engine with the key. It is turned on by locking the doors with the fob, you can tell it is armed by the flashing red security light on the dash. The remote start won't work if it is not armed.
The 2010 needs a special tool (EL50448) to reset the TPMS positions, the releasing air thing doesn't work.
So, this has been going on since you got the car, it never worked correctly since you got it?
Was the engine or transmission replaced?
Old May 8, 2025 | 12:03 PM
  #24  
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Hi donbrew, my 2010 works fine and yes I can reset the TPMS removing air from each tire as the signal lights indicate. The issue with remote start is ONLY with my 2007 HHR LT 2.4. All original from engine to transmission and 108K miles. I did find another OEM FOB I had from a 2008 HHR LT 2.4, can I reprogram this for my 2007?
Old May 8, 2025 | 06:29 PM
  #25  
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You can but why? The problem is not with starting.
I would loosen the 4 bolts in the fuse box then KingKong tighten them back. The point is to get all of the pins seated in their respective slots, there are like 100-200 of them.
Old May 8, 2025 | 11:24 PM
  #26  
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Ok, I'll give a try tomorrow, first I'm going to disconnect the negative battery side just to be safe...
Old May 9, 2025 | 11:35 AM
  #27  
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That’s a good idea, avoid a short.
Old May 9, 2025 | 01:22 PM
  #28  
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ok, here are the results, first the car starts fine with the key and runs great, no misfires, no erratic idle, nothing, no CEL light and/or stored. I disconnected the negative battery lead and then proceeded to loosen all 7mm engine fuse box bolts, then using a 3/8 ratchet tighten down all the bolts starting from the center and working my way around. There is no question now that these bolts are tight, I went around them 4 times and believe me these are tight. So I started the car with the key, let it run a minute, shut it off opened the drivers door, then closed it locked all doors with the FOB, the yellow lock comes on the left side of the instrument cluster, I'm sitting in the car and initiate remote start, the car starts and shuts off after about 10 seconds. I tried this several times with the same result. I got my other FOB just in case, and tried all this again with the same results, now I don't even get the remote start to stay on 3 out of 5 times like it did yesterday, it just starts and shuts off. I did find a NEW behavior, if I'm sitting in the car and hold the gas pedal to the floor and initiate remote start the engine cranks few times and then starts and continues to run without shutting down, I tried this procedure 5 times and each time it worked and continues to run. So what could this point to? bad and/or clogged injectors, bad and or faulty fuel pump? Should I start with the fuses and/or relays that pertain to the fuel injectors and/or fuel pump? if you can please direct me to what fuses and/or relays to check here I would appreciate it, also any ideas you guys can think of here I will gladly try, thanks again Mark
Old May 9, 2025 | 01:29 PM
  #29  
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Just in case its asked, I do have a new die hard battery just 2 weeks ago and had the alternator checked at AZ with their machine.
Old May 9, 2025 | 01:42 PM
  #30  
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Fuse box and panel diagrams

https://fuse-box.info/chevrolet/chev...uses-and-relay



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