When I first bought my 2008 in 2017 whenever I would slow down at a light or stop sign, the engine would die. I was told to add fuel injector cleaner to every other gas tank. After that, (btw the car has over 250,000 miles now) the check engine light comes on and stays on. Had the defect codes cleared several times they always say those are old codes. At city speeds the idle is rough and loud, had the sensors changed and does not fix the issue. I have had the spark plugs changed and had the fuel injectors checked and cleaned. I have no problems at highway speeds. Any ideas? I have to pay somebody to do all this for me as a disabled vet I cannot do these things for myself anymore.

 

What codes? ALWAYS write them down.
What sensors were changed?
You won't get much help here without that info.
There's really no point in clearing the codes until the problem is fixed or at least you know what the problem is and that you won't harm the motor by continuing to drive.
DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR until a competent mechanic has assured you won't harm the motor by doing so.
You might get more help here if you were to use you phone to make a short video clip of the idling engine (with sound, hood up.)

 

The very first thing to do is make sure the MAF is plugged in. That is the electrical connection on the air cleaner horn.
Check the exhaust flex pipe between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe, it probably has a crack in it.

Clearing codes without noting them is "not smart". They are called Diagnostic Trouble Codes for a reason.

Has the ignition recall been done? https://my.chevrolet.com/recalls

 

If you're looking for help and /or answers, then as stated you need to post the trouble codes. Code numbers only (ex: P0001, P0002). No descriptions of the codes because they can vary from scanner to scanner. Sometimes descriptions are misleading or even wrong.
And as Donbrew said, check the MAF plug and the exhaust flex pipe.

 

All the above are valid questions and suggestions but in your current health status you really are going to have to find a good, competent and fair independent mechanic (not a dealership) to help you through this and other problems that may come down the road. Checking to see if the MAF sensor is plugged in and tight is easy, within reach from the front of the car... Flex pipe on the other hand involves getting under the car which may not be something you can do anymore.

Changing the sensors because they are telling you there is a problem is generally not the way things are done... They are usually reporting a problem, which means they are doing their job. Whoever did that for you would not meet the "good, competent and fair" description above.


Get the codes read, write down the code numbers and we will try to steer you in the right direction, but if you are no longer able to do the work yourself a good shop is going to be vital. Local autoparts should read the codes for free.

 

The cause of the loud and rough idle was exhaust leak. replaced the whole exhaust pipe line and is nice and quiet now. I have not had a chance to check the codes yet. That will be next. Thank you guys for all the information. There are currently no recalls for my car.