Some of those cheap code readers are not configured to work with anything.

 

The one I have now, doesn’t read ABS codes

 

Well, I guess a really old stock reader would not be CAN capable. The ones that pretend to need "manufacturer specific updates" are BS. The tests are standard, the definitions may vary, but I would not believe the hand held device for that, anyway.

A GoOgle search shows no difference for 2004 Ram, just fuse and connection problems.

 

Ok, took the HHR to Oreillys to use the reader, showing Right front wheel speed sensor is bad.. So, I guess it needs replaced?

Put a can of seafoam in the crankcase as well as in the fuel tank to clean it up before the next oil change and swapping out the VVT valves as I don't want to clog the new ones with debris that gets washed out.
Just contacted my son in law on price to get the hub replaced and do that tie rod while they are in there.

Hopefully this will fix everything that's been popping up on the dash recently.

 

Code readers don't tell which parts are bad. They just tell you where the bad reading is coming from.
Could it be the hub ? Yes.
It could also be a wiring or plug connector issue at that hub.

 

I checked the connectors and wiring, all looked good, no corrosion or breaks/cuts …. looking into checking the readings with an ohm meter to see what the hub says but cant find anything on it yet.

 

Question on testing the hub ( speed sensor ) I watched a video where they used millivolts on a digital meter, connected to the hub and spun it ( should get a reading of about 350mv ) well on the fwd how can I spin it to test it without removing it or is that the only way?

Today, the service text is on as usual with the ABS and Traction lights as I left the house this morning, went to the city to my buddys house to use the table saw ( which the lights all went off on the way down and were still off on the way back...as it sits now they were off. So not sure if the hub is erratic or if it could be in the wiring as Im not sure how to check the wiring yet but have heard that sometimes the connector to the ABS distribution block can get corroded ( where is this connection and how do I check it ? ) and I plan to dive into it early tomorrow to get it checked out the best I can. Im planning to install new brake pads as well as I think these are getting low from the looks of it.... might adjust the rear as well. Any advice, input.... Thanks.

 

Check the sensor for continuity.. It produces an AC signal the frequency is the signal.

The complete code might be useful including the hex suffix.

 

?
not sure...

 

If your car is automatic you can remove one wheel,support the lower arm, and leave the other tire on the ground.
Hook up your meter to the disconnected ABS that's in question, start and put in drive with the parking brake on.
You won't go nowhere, it's not a posi.
Spinning the wheel will now give you a value.
When done, apply foot brake, put in park and shut off engine.