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I found the sheet Cloyes sent with the kit last year. The upper half of it explains chain markings.
My memory was accurate but I probably misread the sheet back when. I was seeing two tensioners with humps. Now I can’t tell if the second one has it. I’m thinking probably not.
The notes on the photo are theirs, not mine. No part numbers, obviously.
" the third supersedes ALL previous tensioners" Look closely 2 of them have a tiny hole, 1 needs an O-ring, the third has a groove in the threads. The first 2 have a large piston the third a smaller one.
To answer the OP "Tensioner is deactivated when the tensioner piston moves freely".
I like the hump. You can identify it by feel and confirm a car has the latest version. Until the next version. Then what, two humps? We’ll need to call it the camel.
If purchased from a dealer would it be prudent to ask for the tensioner to be replaced?
I looked in my 2008 manual and the chain / guides / are not a scheduled maintenance item until?
Too much noise or a code set indicating necessary repairs?
That makes sense to me when I surmise that the older one was not up to the demands of VVT, and then they realized the new one was better even in non-VVT motors.
My 2008 2.4 had the hump on the tensioner and I was confused because it was well rusted and I was pretty sure at 80K the chains had never been done. This clears it up.
QUOTE=WoodysMobile;919910]If purchased from a dealer would it be prudent to ask for the tensioner to be replaced?
I looked in my 2008 manual and the chain / guides / are not a scheduled maintenance item until?
Too much noise or a code set indicating necessary repairs?[/QUOTE]
According to Donbrew’s comment above, if it’s a 2.4 it already has the newest tensioner. At 114K definitely not too early to assess whether the whole chain job should be done. It’s a risk/benefit decision that depends on what the car is worth, how long you expect to own it, what repairs you can afford, and what losses you can afford. If it has a great oil change history, been driven with a light foot, and is exhibiting no symptoms, leaving it alone for awhile is pretty low risk.
I replaced just the timing tensioner on a 2008 2.2 awhile back. The chain job would have set me back about $900, was having trouble finding someone to do it, and the car wouldn’t have brought me $2500 at the time, even though it was running great and had been well-oiled and gently driven. The $30 tensioner fixed it, pretty sure it has a good shot at going another 100K, and if it doesn’t, it will probably issue a warning. $900 would have been pricy insurance.
