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What Did You Do To Your HHR Today?

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Old 05-06-2020, 09:05 PM
  #17971  
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Sleeper, I bought our Toro Timecutter zero-turn mower last year.

I bought an upgraded model so I could get the two items that most of the zero turn Toro owners said to get: the fabricated deck (instead of stamped) and the Kawasaki engine. Everyone said the best engine in the Toro zero turn mowers was the Kawasaki. Lower models have a Toro-built engine.

Steve
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Old 05-06-2020, 09:57 PM
  #17972  
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Originally Posted by fastsuv
Sleeper, I bought our Toro Timecutter zero-turn mower last year. Small world, Very Cool Steve, mine is a Timecutter MX as well. Almost 6 yrs old, & I only have 128.1 hours on it. Not an issue at all.
Toro is only brand that has different speed select ranges by shifter..


I bought an upgraded model (same here) so I could get the two items that most of the zero turn Toro owners said to get: the fabricated deck (yep) (instead of stamped) and the Kawasaki engine. Oh Yes !!! Everyone said the best engine in the Toro zero turn mowers was the Kawasaki. I agree, I have the Kawasaki as well. That engine is a Torque Monster. I see them on Scags & other really expensive brand Z's. That is the engine. Lower models have a Toro-built engine. Yep, those are made in china. Lonchin ? or somewhere like that.

Around here they no longer offer the Kawasaki on Timecutters. They are pushing the Toro branded chinese engines, or Kohlers. Now on the Timecutter "Myride", yes they do offer the Kaw.

Steve
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Old 05-07-2020, 06:44 AM
  #17973  
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Forgot to tell you of the other upgrade on my Atlas.
It has wheels where the skid plates are.
I use it on concrete and asphalt.
If it was used on gravel I would have used wider wheels on it.
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Old 05-07-2020, 06:51 AM
  #17974  
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Originally Posted by fastsuv
That looks like the Briggs engine I had back in the early 70s on a homemade go-kart I made.

To start my engine, you placed the pull start rope knot in the slot, wrapped the rope around the hub, and pulled. No self-recoiling rope.

Steve
Yeah the 3 and 5 hp Briggs were the go to engines back then.
I had one that used the rope too. Engine was on a 20" bicycle using V belt drive.
How many times after you pulled thru to start the engine you would whip yourself with that rope.
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Old 05-07-2020, 07:40 AM
  #17975  
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Today a drive to Home Depot, to pick up deck fasteners and the tool to set them , I ordered the Camo tool, never even seen one yet, the videos looked interesting, and no surface screws so less chance of water damage.
We’ll see how that works out.
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Old 05-07-2020, 08:51 AM
  #17976  
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I would use composite boards if you are replacing the originals.
Also for those who want to know the tool Blue is going to use here it is.

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Old 05-07-2020, 11:01 AM
  #17977  
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The boards are $16.00 each 5/4 x 16 ft , the composite boards are $4.00 per linear foot. A lot more money.
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Old 05-07-2020, 11:26 AM
  #17978  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
The boards are $16.00 each 5/4 x 16 ft , the composite boards are $4.00 per linear foot. A lot more money.
Please explain 5/4 x 16 ft ?
Is that metric units ?
Are they pressure treated ?
If you go the other route you won't have to replace boards if they lift or restain/retreat when the time comes.
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Old 05-07-2020, 11:27 AM
  #17979  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Today a drive to Home Depot, to pick up deck fasteners and the tool to set them , I ordered the Camo tool, never even seen one yet, the videos looked interesting, and no surface screws so less chance of water damage.
We’ll see how that works out.

I built a 10 x 14 deck on the front of our house a couple of years ago with the Camo system.

It works great! No screw holes on top to trap water and look bad.

I also used PT boards, because this deck isn't used a real lot, and the same thing as you said PT is a lot cheaper. Of course I strained it after the boards dried for a half year.

On my pool deck, I used the composite boards. No splinters for the kids.

Steve
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Old 05-07-2020, 11:34 AM
  #17980  
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Originally Posted by Cat Man HHR
Please explain 5/4 x 16 ft ?
Is that metric units ?
Are they pressure treated ?
If you go the other route you won't have to replace boards if they lift or restain/retreat when the time comes.
5/4 is actually standard lumberyard terminology for the board thickness. That means that its 5 units of 1/4" thick for a total of 1 1/4"). You wouldn't say a 1" thick board, you would say 4/4, as in "four quarters". A 2" thick board would be 8/4 (eight quarters).

Deck boards are usually 5/4, which implies 1 1/4" thick, but they are around 1 1/8" thick actually (just like a 2x4 is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2).

Steve
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