Am I crazy? Wheel removal
On aluminum wheels, I put a thin (and i mean THIN) coating of anti-seize lubricant on the mating surfaces of the rim to the rotor/drum. This will never happen again after that.
To get it off, lay a 2x4 tangent across the inner rim and whack it with a rubber mallet or whatever you've got. Spin the whee 180, and repeat. Pops right off
To get it off, lay a 2x4 tangent across the inner rim and whack it with a rubber mallet or whatever you've got. Spin the whee 180, and repeat. Pops right off
On aluminum wheels, I put a thin (and i mean THIN) coating of anti-seize lubricant on the mating surfaces of the rim to the rotor/drum. This will never happen again after that.
To get it off, lay a 2x4 tangent across the inner rim and whack it with a rubber mallet or whatever you've got. Spin the whee 180, and repeat. Pops right off
To get it off, lay a 2x4 tangent across the inner rim and whack it with a rubber mallet or whatever you've got. Spin the whee 180, and repeat. Pops right off
I guess that was the point of my post regarding the use of the Super Lube grease. Anything that insulates the 2 metals will provide some protection. I believe some aftermarket company also sells VERY THIN plastic "spacers" that provide the protection as well.
The use of a lubricant type grease is a salt water boating trick. Salt water GREATLY increases the corrosion of dissimilar metals and is experienced by "oldies" as well as newbies.
4 out of 7 of my vehicles have aluminum wheels. One of them is 10 years old and another is 23 years old. As others have suggested, I also use anti-seize religiously on both the hubs and studs. I also use a speck on the 2 vehicles that have metal valve caps. I have never had an issue removing wheels after the first tire rotation (my SS had the same issue at 8k mi at the 1st tire rotation). Personally, I prefer the brush-on type over the tubes or aerosols.
4 out of 7 of my vehicles have aluminum wheels. One of them is 10 years old and another is 23 years old. As others have suggested, I also use anti-seize religiously on both the hubs and studs. I also use a speck on the 2 vehicles that have metal valve caps. I have never had an issue removing wheels after the first tire rotation (my SS had the same issue at 8k mi at the 1st tire rotation). Personally, I prefer the brush-on type over the tubes or aerosols.

My buddy did the same thing on his mopar. no issues with his. But on a GM, no dice.
Solution
I had this problem tonight. An important point is that any hit from the underside of the vehicle towards the outside is probably 3-5 times more effective than hitting, or kicking it, towards the vehicle. I simply used a light sledge hammer hitting the inside of the rim. No need to be particularly careful, as it's on the inside. Also no need to really hit it hard. Worked for all four!
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Silverfox
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Jun 1, 2011 09:37 PM



