HHR SS Topics and information on the 2008-2010 Chevy HHR SS Turbocharged models.

Am I crazy? Wheel removal

Old Dec 18, 2010 | 10:48 AM
  #31  
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On aluminum wheels, I put a thin (and i mean THIN) coating of anti-seize lubricant on the mating surfaces of the rim to the rotor/drum. This will never happen again after that.

To get it off, lay a 2x4 tangent across the inner rim and whack it with a rubber mallet or whatever you've got. Spin the whee 180, and repeat. Pops right off
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 12:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by nacademus
On aluminum wheels, I put a thin (and i mean THIN) coating of anti-seize lubricant on the mating surfaces of the rim to the rotor/drum. This will never happen again after that.

To get it off, lay a 2x4 tangent across the inner rim and whack it with a rubber mallet or whatever you've got. Spin the whee 180, and repeat. Pops right off

I guess that was the point of my post regarding the use of the Super Lube grease. Anything that insulates the 2 metals will provide some protection. I believe some aftermarket company also sells VERY THIN plastic "spacers" that provide the protection as well.

The use of a lubricant type grease is a salt water boating trick. Salt water GREATLY increases the corrosion of dissimilar metals and is experienced by "oldies" as well as newbies.
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #33  
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I always just turn my back to the car and give it some swift kicks to the rim.
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #34  
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4 out of 7 of my vehicles have aluminum wheels. One of them is 10 years old and another is 23 years old. As others have suggested, I also use anti-seize religiously on both the hubs and studs. I also use a speck on the 2 vehicles that have metal valve caps. I have never had an issue removing wheels after the first tire rotation (my SS had the same issue at 8k mi at the 1st tire rotation). Personally, I prefer the brush-on type over the tubes or aerosols.

Old Dec 18, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 87silver
4 out of 7 of my vehicles have aluminum wheels. One of them is 10 years old and another is 23 years old. As others have suggested, I also use anti-seize religiously on both the hubs and studs. I also use a speck on the 2 vehicles that have metal valve caps. I have never had an issue removing wheels after the first tire rotation (my SS had the same issue at 8k mi at the 1st tire rotation). Personally, I prefer the brush-on type over the tubes or aerosols.

Amen. Brush on type for sure. Every bolt on the frame of my Duc is Locktite brush-on anti-seize, or Agip Molybdenum Disulphide grease.
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 09:17 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by sleeper
My wifey's Mopar has the alum TPMS stems & I have had 'stainless (o-ringed) valve caps' on it for over 2 yrs now..No problemo

And then again we do not have the type of weather younse do.....
My buddy did the same thing on his mopar. no issues with his. But on a GM, no dice.
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #37  
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Bummer...

Now mine are Brass stems (2008)
Old Dec 20, 2010 | 03:59 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jaxon
I always just turn my back to the car and give it some swift kicks to the rim.
Also known as the good ol' MULE KICK. Works for me too.
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #39  
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Solution

I had this problem tonight. An important point is that any hit from the underside of the vehicle towards the outside is probably 3-5 times more effective than hitting, or kicking it, towards the vehicle. I simply used a light sledge hammer hitting the inside of the rim. No need to be particularly careful, as it's on the inside. Also no need to really hit it hard. Worked for all four!
Old Jan 2, 2011 | 10:24 PM
  #40  
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If you're going to hit the rim with a sledge, (even on the inside) use a piece of wood to protect the rim...... Hope you were doing this on stands. Never get part way under a car while just on the jack.
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