Decent replacement turbo setup?
03-30-2023, 09:39 AM
#11
Before you attempt anything, read this thread:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-...rebuild-61246/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-...rebuild-61246/
03-30-2023, 11:03 AM
#12
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It would be a good idea to read his threads, find out what symptoms he was chasing. Ask him, if necessary, if doing this turbo rebuild fixed the problem.
Unless there was a prolonged oil starvation, I'm inclined to agree with the worn rings theory. I don't remember if you performed a wet compression test or a leak down test.
Unless there was a prolonged oil starvation, I'm inclined to agree with the worn rings theory. I don't remember if you performed a wet compression test or a leak down test.
03-30-2023, 11:57 AM
#13
It would be a good idea to read his threads, find out what symptoms he was chasing. Ask him, if necessary, if doing this turbo rebuild fixed the problem.
Unless there was a prolonged oil starvation, I'm inclined to agree with the worn rings theory. I don't remember if you performed a wet compression test or a leak down test.
Unless there was a prolonged oil starvation, I'm inclined to agree with the worn rings theory. I don't remember if you performed a wet compression test or a leak down test.
I didn't do a wet ring compression test, just dry.
03-30-2023, 01:04 PM
#14
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What happens when you have worn rings; compression leaks past the rings, into the crankcase. This excess pressure in the crankcase forces oil vapor out of the crankcase.
Under vacuum, it goes through the PCV valve, through the intake manifold and is burned in the combustion chamber and then out the exhaust. It's not a lot of pressure, so it's not a lot of vapor.
Under boost, the intake manifold is no longer under vacuum (negative pressure), it is pressurized, and the PCV valve closes. The crankcase pressure is higher; but can't be sucked out by vacuum. So it goes out through the braided stainless hose that goes to the turbo. Then through the intake manifold, etc. Higher crankcase pressure, more oil vapor is burned out the exhaust.
So before you dig into the turbo, you really should do that wet test.
Under vacuum, it goes through the PCV valve, through the intake manifold and is burned in the combustion chamber and then out the exhaust. It's not a lot of pressure, so it's not a lot of vapor.
Under boost, the intake manifold is no longer under vacuum (negative pressure), it is pressurized, and the PCV valve closes. The crankcase pressure is higher; but can't be sucked out by vacuum. So it goes out through the braided stainless hose that goes to the turbo. Then through the intake manifold, etc. Higher crankcase pressure, more oil vapor is burned out the exhaust.
So before you dig into the turbo, you really should do that wet test.
03-30-2023, 01:25 PM
#15
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Join Date: 12-05-2014
Location: Northern Ohio
Posts: 2,375
What happens when you have worn rings; compression leaks past the rings, into the crankcase. This excess pressure in the crankcase forces oil vapor out of the crankcase.
Under vacuum, it goes through the PCV valve, through the intake manifold and is burned in the combustion chamber and then out the exhaust. It's not a lot of pressure, so it's not a lot of vapor.
Under boost, the intake manifold is no longer under vacuum (negative pressure), it is pressurized, and the PCV valve closes. The crankcase pressure is higher; but can't be sucked out by vacuum. So it goes out through the braided stainless hose that goes to the turbo. Then through the intake manifold, etc. Higher crankcase pressure, more oil vapor is burned out the exhaust.
So before you dig into the turbo, you really should do that wet test.
Under vacuum, it goes through the PCV valve, through the intake manifold and is burned in the combustion chamber and then out the exhaust. It's not a lot of pressure, so it's not a lot of vapor.
Under boost, the intake manifold is no longer under vacuum (negative pressure), it is pressurized, and the PCV valve closes. The crankcase pressure is higher; but can't be sucked out by vacuum. So it goes out through the braided stainless hose that goes to the turbo. Then through the intake manifold, etc. Higher crankcase pressure, more oil vapor is burned out the exhaust.
So before you dig into the turbo, you really should do that wet test.
With enough boost, who cares about worn rings, right? Well, with direct injection, you care because of all the oil mist.
Member m_ridzon wrote a bit about catch cans, too.
03-30-2023, 02:37 PM
#17
How much oil do I pour into each splug hole for a wet test?
can i just replace all the rings and the problem will be solved or it will at least eliminate the possibility and be one step in the right direction?
And is it easy to do yourself?
can i just replace all the rings and the problem will be solved or it will at least eliminate the possibility and be one step in the right direction?
And is it easy to do yourself?
03-30-2023, 04:13 PM
#18
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03-30-2023, 07:35 PM
#19
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Yeah replacing the rings is pretty involved. Remove the head, Remove the oil pan, take the pistons out. Lot more to it than that. Your dry compression results showed even wear across all cylinders. You may just want to install catch cans and run it like that. But let's see what the wet test shows.
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03-30-2023, 08:45 PM
#20
Would really like to make the car reliable. I love the color...the remote start...the turbo. Even in limp mode now its wayyyyy faster than my LT and thats even if I only rev to 2.5 or 3k rpm.
how much oil do I put into each cylinder for the wet test?
how much oil do I put into each cylinder for the wet test?