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The 2 wires (I also have 1 red, 1 black)on the fuse block stud, 1(red) goes to battery positive post, the other(black) goes to the large stud on the starter. On that same large stud is a wire to the alternator (this is the wire that has what appears to be a fusible link, not on any wiring diagram). Both of these should be red(although the diagram shows both wires red on the fuse block stud also, incorrectly)
The small stud on the starter should be a purple wire.
Quick update, we checked the voltage for the wires to the starter. I can't remember the numbers but they all have what seemed to be good readings, except ONE wire. The plug wire that plugs into the starter, barely has any power. Probably not enough to engage the starter. Jumping the starter made it spin, but not spring out and engage the flywheel
The 2 wires (I also have 1 red, 1 black)on the fuse block stud, 1(red) goes to battery positive post, the other(black) goes to the large stud on the starter. On that same large stud is a wire to the alternator (this is the wire that has what appears to be a fusible link, not on any wiring diagram). Both of these should be red(although the diagram shows both wires red on the fuse block stud also, incorrectly)
The small stud on the starter should be a purple wire.
I'm the third owner I have no idea whats been done. It's an 08 and just getting shifter cables took 5 months of fighting with GM. We just came in from checking the wires, I've even compared them to my LT and Malibu, and the only wire without enough voltage is the plug wire which I believe is part of the ignition? < Not sure
Another thought, is the clutch pedal in the fully released (up) position? Has it ever stuck fully or partially down?
Yes actually when the shifter cable broke the clutch line from the master cylinder down to the transmission (was a ***** to describe to parts people) popped off of the master cylinder shaft. Excuse my terminology as I know nothing....I had to jerry rig a clip out of high grade wire to keep the cable on the cylinder shaft, and bled the lines and such accordingly. The pedal now is no longer stuck to the floor as it was when the line was disconnected, and since bleeding the clutch. The car did stall upon 2nd start up, user error, and hasn't started since
The 2 wires (I also have 1 red, 1 black)on the fuse block stud, 1(red) goes to battery positive post, the other(black) goes to the large stud on the starter. On that same large stud is a wire to the alternator (this is the wire that has what appears to be a fusible link, not on any wiring diagram). Both of these should be red(although the diagram shows both wires red on the fuse block stud also, incorrectly)
The small stud on the starter should be a purple wire.
the top post for the starter for me has a big black wire and a small red, its hard to tell if my LT is the same. Bottom post is the negative that the starter just comes with, and I think your purple wire is brown for me and is a plug. Idk man my brain is as fried as the wiring
The small wire is for the solenoid, it only has power when the key is in "start".
Here is a different diagram:?
I'm sorry I failed electricity in school and don't follow diagrams well but I'm trying. But when you say no power unless in start, does that mean it should read 0? Is that small wire the plug in? Because I'm getting some power even before the key is actively turned to start. In ON theres little voltage, and on Start theres just a tad bit more; but if it's supposed to be 0 could that be the problem? The reading in accessory was 0.22V and when START 0.26V, jumping between both. This is that purple wire plug you're talking about, it's just brown on my car. But that wire has those readings