I get 4.75% in my checking account as long as i have at least 1 direct deposit and use my debit card 10 or more times in a month. $347 is not a lot at all for financing $25,000. Try paying 5% interest on $25,000, your payments would be $403 and you would pay over $4,000 in interest over the life of the loan. $389 is awfully low on a mortgage. A typical mortgage for the average middle class american is around $1200 per month including insurances and esgrow.

 

The money I have saved is in an ING account, which was earning over 5% a year ago. Now it's down to about 3% - hardly worth it.

And I have to pay tax on the interest.

 

Indiana. Yes, we put a lot down, about 120K. I habitually have bad luck in the stock market so I preferred to put a big chunk of the equity money from sale of our former house, which was paid off, down on the note for the new one. Really kind of an idiot for moving out of a paid off pad, but we got the itch for something different. We didn't escrow taxes and insurance-- pay those outright when they're due. Housing here is much lower cost than many other areas of the country.

Anyhow, back on topic... If the 0% lasts awhile I could see myself financing the difference between trade value on my 1LT and negotiated deal on a base no-options SS, as long as they don't try to rob me too mercilessly on trade value.

 

That's typically the way I would do a deal. But this time I am giving my Grand Prix to my daughter, so I won't be trading in a car this time. I figure it is cheaper to give her my car than to trade it in and buy her a new or used car.

 

You do raise a valid point that I had overlooked. However, I did NOT mention paying cash for the entire vehicle. My reference was for those people that finance the entire vehicle OR with a VERY MINIMUM DOWN, brag about their low payment, drive it off the lot and the value of the vehicle is less than what they owe on it (as described previously). THEN in 3 or 4 years they rap the negative into the next loan, effectively increasing the cost of that car...possibly above the MSRP. That is a cycle that is very difficult to vacate.

I don't think this forum contains many people that CAN/WILL purchase a new car for cash. But, there are some....

 

This is the latest from Chevy site. So I take it that you can get $2,250 off of the HHR SS? Yet the Cobalt lists the SS model as excluded. Very strange. Am I interpreting this correctly? It seems to be more confusing than it needs to be.

Or take advantage right now of our Chevy Customer Cash offers on select 2008 models:

$2,000 on TrailBlazer, Tahoe (excludes Hybrid), Suburban, Avalanche and Silverado Half-
Ton (Ext. and Crew Cabs) and Express 2500 Cargo.
$1,500 on HHR, Equinox, Colorado (Ext. and Crew Cabs) and Silverado (1500 Reg. Cab
and 2500/3500)
$1,000 on Cobalt and Impala
$500 on Aveo

Plus, you can combine Chevy Customer Cash with Purchase Bonus Cashon select 2008 models. Trade up to one of these:

$6,000 Total Purchase Cash on Suburban and Tahoe (excludes Hybrid)
$5,000 Total Purchase Cash on Avalanche and Silverado Half-Ton (Ext. and Crew Cabs)
$4,000 Total Purchase Cash on Tahoe Hybrid
$3,250 Total Purchase Cash on Silverado (2500/3500 Diesel)
$3,000 Total Purchase Cash on TrailBlazer and Silverado (Half Ton Reg. Cab)
$2,500 Total Purchase Cash on Equinox and Colorado (Ext./Crew Cabs)
$2,250 Total Purchase Cash on HHR
$1,750 Total Purchase Cash on Impala
$1,500 Total Purchase Cash on Cobalt (excludes SS Turbo) and C4500
$1,000 Total Purchase Cash on Colorado (Reg. Cab)

 

We got the GMS 2,000 dollar discount and are locked in with 0% for 72 on our 2008. No problems what so ever.