LDK build
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Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,512
From: California
On the LNF there is no mess pulling the oil filter. Is the LDK different?
Senior Member
Joined: 05-29-2015
Posts: 542
From: Cleveland, OH
How'd ya like those clamps! The upper charge tube was impossible to do without a GIANT set of pliers. I can see yours is similar to mine, nothing to mount to. What I did; used the fuel pump cover bracket. There is a small raised section that lines up directly under the zzp mounting tab. Get yourself a m6 tap and drill set. Then make a spot to mount the charge pipe.
I am curious though...Your cold air actually looks like it gets cold air. My cold air pipe ends with my filter on the valve cover(which is, to say the least, unintelligent). Their reasoning seemed simple enough, "you have a larger intercooler so there's no need for cold air supply" Seems a bit counterintuitive to me... I am currently working on a true cold air setup, but I didn't realize ZZP had that. I'm going to have to call my buddies over there and see what the deal is.
Anyways, great progress there bud! Looks good. IMHO (not that it matters) I would've gone to the firewall, just so your hoses weren't a half mile long. The LDK crowd does have an extra option though. The 2013 buick regal came with a vacuum pump driven by the exhaust cam. Which is why you have a block off plate there. Just a thought...
I am curious though...Your cold air actually looks like it gets cold air. My cold air pipe ends with my filter on the valve cover(which is, to say the least, unintelligent). Their reasoning seemed simple enough, "you have a larger intercooler so there's no need for cold air supply" Seems a bit counterintuitive to me... I am currently working on a true cold air setup, but I didn't realize ZZP had that. I'm going to have to call my buddies over there and see what the deal is.
Anyways, great progress there bud! Looks good. IMHO (not that it matters) I would've gone to the firewall, just so your hoses weren't a half mile long. The LDK crowd does have an extra option though. The 2013 buick regal came with a vacuum pump driven by the exhaust cam. Which is why you have a block off plate there. Just a thought...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 09-02-2010
Posts: 383
From: Philadelphia, PA
The oil filter is the same setup, I just remember when I changed the filter on my LNF some oil would leak out. Come to think of it, I think it was because the filter was saturated in it and because of gravity, it drips off when you're removing it.
The charge pipe wasn't that bad Dbeluscak. The instructions from ZZP said to cut the rubber ends off the old pipe and apply to the charge pipe. Luckily they supplied new silicone couplers and v band clamps since I ordered the entire LNF intercooler package. Attached the silicone couplers to the intercooler and turbo, then put an extremely light amount of white grease on the ends of the charge pipe, and they slipped right in. Always remember, never go in dry!
Great tip on the mounting tab. With the way it's setup, it feels like it's not going to move anywhere and is pretty sturdy, but a little extra security mounting it like you said shouldn't hurt.
That Cold Air Intake was a PITA just because of the space. Since it came in a few sections from ZZP, we connected the silicone coupler to the turbo, then the aluminum tube to the coupler. We could then adjust how much of the aluminum tube went into the couple to make sure the filter was as close to the engine bay opening for the stock air box.
Hoses for the can are a little long, but not as bad as one thinks. Since we're running though the port for the stock air box, it really isn't that much extra. For the Turbo, definitely further, but for the manifold it might be the same length if not closer than if the can was mounted to the firewall. As long as we have proper vacuum, then we will replace everything with braided lines and AN fittings.
Thanks for the kind words! The car is going into a local car show June 4th along with my late uncle's 39 Chevy Coupe. My brother said I owe him a hoagie (or sub for those not from the Philly, South Jersey area) and a Big Gulp for all this work. It's the cheapest bill for labor that I've ever received!
The charge pipe wasn't that bad Dbeluscak. The instructions from ZZP said to cut the rubber ends off the old pipe and apply to the charge pipe. Luckily they supplied new silicone couplers and v band clamps since I ordered the entire LNF intercooler package. Attached the silicone couplers to the intercooler and turbo, then put an extremely light amount of white grease on the ends of the charge pipe, and they slipped right in. Always remember, never go in dry!
Great tip on the mounting tab. With the way it's setup, it feels like it's not going to move anywhere and is pretty sturdy, but a little extra security mounting it like you said shouldn't hurt.
That Cold Air Intake was a PITA just because of the space. Since it came in a few sections from ZZP, we connected the silicone coupler to the turbo, then the aluminum tube to the coupler. We could then adjust how much of the aluminum tube went into the couple to make sure the filter was as close to the engine bay opening for the stock air box.
Hoses for the can are a little long, but not as bad as one thinks. Since we're running though the port for the stock air box, it really isn't that much extra. For the Turbo, definitely further, but for the manifold it might be the same length if not closer than if the can was mounted to the firewall. As long as we have proper vacuum, then we will replace everything with braided lines and AN fittings.
Thanks for the kind words! The car is going into a local car show June 4th along with my late uncle's 39 Chevy Coupe. My brother said I owe him a hoagie (or sub for those not from the Philly, South Jersey area) and a Big Gulp for all this work. It's the cheapest bill for labor that I've ever received!
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Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,512
From: California
Looks great, you guys have made real progress. It's gonna be awesome to get back on the road! Don't forget the break-in procedure, though!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 09-02-2010
Posts: 383
From: Philadelphia, PA
Well then, the filter should be dry now, right? You certainly don't want to run it without a filter, so you gotta look regardless. Or is it irregardless? lol
Looks great, you guys have made real progress. It's gonna be awesome to get back on the road! Don't forget the break-in procedure, though!
Looks great, you guys have made real progress. It's gonna be awesome to get back on the road! Don't forget the break-in procedure, though!
Break-in procedure, You mean fire it up for the first time and floor the gas pedal to make it hot enough to seat everything?
I'm going to follow ZZPs procedure - the comp cams break in oil is in, and the injector harness is unplugged. Gonna turn over until the oil pressure light goes out, then run the car in gear up to 4500 rpm and let it coast, then to 5000, 5500, 6000, etc to make sure they seat the rings.
Then drive the car with break in oil for 500 miles, drain and change with full synthetic and new oil filter
