Good to know DBeluscak! Dash lights all went out except check engine light after the car started up - so I think we're on the right path.

My MAF is still in the cold air intake tube , so I think that's "draw through" . I don't want to move the MAF to the lower charge pipe until I get the 3 bar sensors/harnesses from crate engine depot, a forge atmospheric Divertor valve, and can tune the car for all that.

Unless I can do that with the tech 2 - then I can start making those modifications now. Id rather wait and save the money to do all that with HP Tuners though...

 

Hmmm, I wonder how a new reluctor ring and sensor managed to be calibrated in the ECU. Not saying it couldn't happen, just wondering.

Everything "the book" says about it indicates anytime you touch any of the 3 components you gotta do it. My only direct experience is when I installed a preprogrammed ECU.

I just checked AllData. Evidently the SS is completely different. 2010 2.2L has a procedure for learning. SS says take it out and replace it, no learning. I guess I won't have anything to PM you about.

And the code would be P0315 not P0334.

This is what it says for 2010 2.2L, but NOT 2.0L.

 

Good to know. Next time we work on it I'll scan and find out what's causing the check engine light.

 

Yes, you'll need HPT to address tuning. Wish I had a tech 2! However, I'm going to assume that your MAF will still need calibrated. Any change in the intake tubing almost always requires a tune. The one exception may be the K&N tube which uses the stock air box. You're a little different now, is the inside diameter the same as stock? That might help, keep an eye on your STFT. If it's out more than -1/+1 you'll need to recalibrate. Like I said, mine came with the tune and fluctuates -8/+13, which may be the cause of my lean condition.

 

The tech 2 does help tremendously - ah the advantage of working in an old GM dealership!

I'm sure I'm going to have to tune anyway with the ZZP CAI. The tube is larger diameter than the stock air box tube, and reading up on forms people say it causes codes. When I ordered it I called ZZP to confirm if a tune is required, and they said it wasn't, and I would probably get a code from the TTR manifold before I got one from the CAI. Either way I want to get the car tuned, I just want to do it when I get the 3 bar sensors and the atmospheric valve so it's done in one shot. I was just hoping to save up money for that first.

We will see - I'm still hoping the light was from us having the rail line disconnected for the first startup.

 

As Dan suggested, if the MAF is located in your new CAI and it is larger or smaller than stock then your trims and fueling in general are going to be off, how far off will depend on the difference in sizes.

Another important thing to consider that most people don't realize is location of the MAF in the new CAI, if its not in a location that is straight before and after it you will have turbulence and your trims will be jumping all over the place and you won't understand why, ask me how I know.... It's very important that the air entering the MAF be linear and straight or you will have a number of different issues, none of them good.

If that is this case you need to add a air straightener ahead of the MAF Honeycomb for MAF

Be careful during your break in phase. You are lucky in that our operating system can and will correct to fueling based on the WB signal even at wide open. How far it can adjust from set point I believe is limited.

 

Remember the MAF is flow directional also, they don't like being in backwards!

 

Good point Doc! I think I might try adding a honeycomb, it certainly wouldn't hurt. As far as the injectors go, ZZP claims no tune is "needed" for the opel injectors. They "should" perform as stock until tuned to do otherwise.

 

Good to know Doc! The pipe the MAF is located in for the CAI has it in the straight potion of the pipe. Lined up against the valve cover the straight potion starts right on the outside screws for the valve cover, and the end lines up with the turbo output for the upper charge pipe. MAF sits in line with the coil packs - so there's definitely some straight both before and after the MAF. Biggest problem will be that the pipe is larger than stock, so that might freak the MAF out.

Opel injectors are suppose to be like stock - slightly larger, and would allow me to run e85. I was told it's just plug and play.

Today after work were gonna do the break in procedure on ZZPs site (in gear and rev up to 4500, 5000, 5500, etc and let it coast close to idle). Tomorrow we will drain the oil and refill with more comp cams break in oil, replace the filter, then be ready to road test for 500 miles. ZZP recommends no wide open throttle, so I'll drive it normally with no WOT pulls during the 500 miles.

After that, I would assume I should be able to drain and replace with synthetic.

 

Please check to ensure your MAF sensor is place in the correct correlation to its flow port!!
If it's backwards you will have issue so!