LDK build
Pulled it straight out the stock pipe and right into the ZZP, just to make sure I didn't do that.
I know on the GM performance intake on my LT, it wouldn't go it backwards. When it was in the right way it slid in no problem.
I'm hoping that was the same situation between stock and ZZP for the SS
I know on the GM performance intake on my LT, it wouldn't go it backwards. When it was in the right way it slid in no problem.
I'm hoping that was the same situation between stock and ZZP for the SS
Break in procedure recommended by ZZP is done!
Charged the battery, car turned over no problem. No engine light, no codes!
Let it run for 20 minutes, highest coolant temp got to was 196.
Going to start finishing up putting her back together, make some final adjustments. Tomorrow we drain the oil, replace with new break in oil, and drive her for 500 miles.
Looks like this was a success!
Charged the battery, car turned over no problem. No engine light, no codes!
Let it run for 20 minutes, highest coolant temp got to was 196.
Going to start finishing up putting her back together, make some final adjustments. Tomorrow we drain the oil, replace with new break in oil, and drive her for 500 miles.
Looks like this was a success!
So another quick update.
Looks like we need to reduce the catch can hose sizes. My brother noticed the lines going into the can were all kinked, so he unkinked them by sliding the can down a hare. As soon as he did that, we got this loud whine noise. Brother removed the oil cap, and the nose was gone.
Our theory is when the hoses were kinked, there was no noise - no check engine light, no codes, etc. If we get a whine when the hoses are unkinked, then the hoses attaching to the can are too big, and there's a vacuum issue.
The RX can uses 90 degree 1/2" hose fittings for the can. We're going to make these 45 degree 3/8" instead, that way the T for the manifold and valve cover will run 3/8" hose to the can instead of 1/2". We will then run 3/8" hose up to the turbo inlet and not have to go from 1/2" to 3/8", then 3/8" to 1/4" for the intake manifold instead of 1/2" to 1/4". This should help the problem and we will be good to go!
Oh, and here's what the engine bay looks like for now...don't worry, that valve cover will be black someday.
Looks like we need to reduce the catch can hose sizes. My brother noticed the lines going into the can were all kinked, so he unkinked them by sliding the can down a hare. As soon as he did that, we got this loud whine noise. Brother removed the oil cap, and the nose was gone.
Our theory is when the hoses were kinked, there was no noise - no check engine light, no codes, etc. If we get a whine when the hoses are unkinked, then the hoses attaching to the can are too big, and there's a vacuum issue.
The RX can uses 90 degree 1/2" hose fittings for the can. We're going to make these 45 degree 3/8" instead, that way the T for the manifold and valve cover will run 3/8" hose to the can instead of 1/2". We will then run 3/8" hose up to the turbo inlet and not have to go from 1/2" to 3/8", then 3/8" to 1/4" for the intake manifold instead of 1/2" to 1/4". This should help the problem and we will be good to go!
Oh, and here's what the engine bay looks like for now...don't worry, that valve cover will be black someday.
Last edited by drummerboy0088; May 23, 2016 at 09:41 PM.
Looks good drummerboy(what's your name, sorry?) I've got a similar lexan cover for my wife's engine. Harley Quinn themed of course. We're making some real progress on it. If I get a chance I'll update the Project overboard thread.
So - Currently talking to Tom at RX to figure out this whine noise.
He is saying the wine is probably due to not replacing the oil cap with the clean side separator that came with my can setup (at least that's what I got out of the convo). I believe what he recommend I do is have the line that goes from CAI and connect it to the clean side separator (which screws in place of the oil cap) and cap the port in the back.
Here's some wonderful sketches. Top one shows original setup from GM, middle is current setup, bottom is what I believe is his recommendation. I don't know how I feel about blocking that back valve.

I tired rotating the photo, but image editor is not cooperating.
I feel this would be more of the setup instead, if I had to include the clean side separator.

This could all also be pointless, and simply reducing the 1/2" hose with 3/8" could solve the problem. Looks like I need to find my lab coat....
He is saying the wine is probably due to not replacing the oil cap with the clean side separator that came with my can setup (at least that's what I got out of the convo). I believe what he recommend I do is have the line that goes from CAI and connect it to the clean side separator (which screws in place of the oil cap) and cap the port in the back.
Here's some wonderful sketches. Top one shows original setup from GM, middle is current setup, bottom is what I believe is his recommendation. I don't know how I feel about blocking that back valve.

I tired rotating the photo, but image editor is not cooperating.
I feel this would be more of the setup instead, if I had to include the clean side separator.

This could all also be pointless, and simply reducing the 1/2" hose with 3/8" could solve the problem. Looks like I need to find my lab coat....
So - Currently talking to Tom at RX to figure out this whine noise.
He is saying the wine is probably due to not replacing the oil cap with the clean side separator that came with my can setup (at least that's what I got out of the convo). I believe what he recommend I do is have the line that goes from CAI and connect it to the clean side separator (which screws in place of the oil cap) and cap the port in the back.
Here's some wonderful sketches. Top one shows original setup from GM, middle is current setup, bottom is what I believe is his recommendation. I don't know how I feel about blocking that back valve.
He is saying the wine is probably due to not replacing the oil cap with the clean side separator that came with my can setup (at least that's what I got out of the convo). I believe what he recommend I do is have the line that goes from CAI and connect it to the clean side separator (which screws in place of the oil cap) and cap the port in the back.
Here's some wonderful sketches. Top one shows original setup from GM, middle is current setup, bottom is what I believe is his recommendation. I don't know how I feel about blocking that back valve.
Why does the larger line cause a whine? I vaguely remember reading something on another forum where there was a whine. I'll go look for it.


