Not 120. 100 lbs ft.

Good you found it before it skipped any more and bent the valves.

 

Regardless of which wheel you turned, there is still slack in the chain.

 

ANY slack between the sprockets is bad.
Don't remove the tensioner, you will not get it back in right unless you get a new one. You might be able to re set it, it is not a simple spring.

 

Seeing as you aren’t sure how old the chain is, replace it! The kit I posted does include a new tensioner.

 

Agreed, if it skipped even just 1 link, te tensioner has no more travel left, AND the chain is stretched. Get yourself a new timing set, do not drive the car, do not even crank the engine anymore.

 

Got all my replacement parts yesterday and still have most codes coming back having to do with emissions, cooling fan, map(cleaned sensors with spray). Got rid of the P0017 with the timing chain job but now have a P0014. I have powerworks brand vvt solenoids so ordered a AC Delco exhaust to replace. I guess I’m going to have to start going with the multimeter.

I also swapped out a boost solenoid on the intake manifold. The turbo flutters now but still have wastegate solenoid code so think I need to change the one by the turbo.

thanks for help so far.

 

Pulled the cover off again and timing was still good and replaced with a new tensioner from GM. The one they sent me last week was already activated.

Also started going through wiring to find shoddy crimp jobs. Will have to go through more but the wastegate solenoid went away after soldering.

Reset codes via Bluetooth and my phone. Didn’t have time to check with my autel but instead of the P0014 I have the P0017 again apparently. Maybe camshaft position sensor? I did swap out the powerworks exhaust solenoid with an AC delco and no changes.

i do have 15lbs of boost now and the car has really woken up.

Guides and chain look new (previous owner said timing chain and water pump were new)but may end up just swapping them out with kits mentioned.

O2 sensor wiring is probably torn up too. Looking like the exhaust was removed and they did not twist then O2 counter clockwise before tightening it back in. I always give them a few twirls so they aren’t twisted when tightened.




Btw oil filter on Mobil 1 website is incorrect so just a heads up.

Once I get the CEL off I’m going to start fixing the suspension clunking (think it’s the strut mounts) but a lot of the bushing have cranks and was to replace everything including the struts. After reading about autocross/track attempts I’ve decided to keep stock JE5? suspension and not pursue any upgrades to track vehicle.

Also want to get a new shift boot and shifter.

 

You replaced the camshaft timing tensioner, and now you have a P0017 code? Sounds like the timing slipped. The tensioner needs a tap after installation.

 

Went from P0017 to P0014 and now back to P0017.

I’ll check it again but gave the guide a love tap with a towel/tape wrapped long screw driver to set the tension. Chain was tight after and chains were still on the marks. Chain was still on the right timing marks and at TDC before I swapped the tensioner.

Might put the old Solenoid in back in to check as well.

 

Symptoms Symptoms of a P0017 will or may include:

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination
The engine may run but with reduced performance
The engine may crank but not start
The engine may exhibit a rattle near the harmonic balancer indicating the tone ring is damaged The engine may start and run, but poorly

Causes may include:
Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
Misalignment of timing chain Tone ring on crankshaft
slipped/broken Tone ring on camshaft
slipped/broken Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timing chain tensioner damaged
An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer
A mis-built or mis-timed engine
A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt
The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open
The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees

Note the first possible cause, timing chain . Change it! You might think you’re saving time or money, but price out a new LNF long block.

Very rarely do the timing marks all line up after the engine has been running, they are just used to align the crankshaft and camshafts during assembly.