i just did my wifes brakes on her 06 with 103,000! the original pads had metal "clips" that are the length and width of the pads on the back of the pads, do i need to put them back on the new pads?? i did put back on the "squeal" clip on the inside passenger pad!!

 

Iwonder what a dealer would charge for pads and rotors, and would they do all the steps everyone suggested? I always found all American brand cars had very similar front brake systems that really havn't changed much over time.

 

Just depends on the dealer and tech. Mechanics are like DR. Some are good some are not.

Most American brakes are similar. But you do have to watch as some have been evolving over the last 10 years.

 

I've run the EBC rotors and pads on several of my vehicles. My 04 Avalanche liked them(EBC slotted and drilled rotors & yellowstuff pads), my wifes POS '99 Lexus likes them ( EBC slotted & drilled rotors and yellowstuff pads) but my 08 2lt HHR is very finicky. It didn't like the same EBC rotors OR pads, (will sell a set of brand new in 'da box Redstuff pads for $50!). It does however like the stock rotors and Bendix CT ceramic pads WITH anti -squeal lube applied on the back. It seams as though the EBC pads kept leaving a residue build up on the rotors. I got tired of cleaning them off. BTW ,about the "BAD" brake fluid mentioned earlier, It doesn't go bad from stuff in the caliper, it is a chemical reaction that takes place in the system, meaning you should test it with a kit at regular intervals. The kit uses paper strips that you "dip" into the master cylinder. The resulting color change tells you when the fluid is "bad".

 

I just put new pads on the front end. It's my first brake job, I am not sure if I am doing it right. After I put everything back on, I took a look at the pads. The pads seem in contact with the rotor, I can't see space between them, but there is no drag when driving. Are the pads supposed to be so close to the rotor?

Thanks.

 

Yes edb, the pads are always in light contact with the rotors, its a design element of disc brakes. Having the pads running lightly on the rotors at all times means they don't have to take up "slack" when you apply the brakes. Also they keep the rotors clean and dry them off when running in wet weather. Just make sure to avoid any very hard stops for the first 50 miles or so to avoid glazing the pads over which will decrease their performance and might cause squealing.

 

"My goal for this year is to go to the bathroom outside my pants. " LMAO - sorry it's off-topic, but I just gotta ask....................... how's the goal thing going?

 

So far so good whopper, but I'll be sure to post if I have a relapse.

 

While the pads look close or just are touching they to pull up as not to create much drag as they go down the road. In the old days they did ride right on the rotors and you had to leave play in the bearing to kick them off. Today the calipers pull back just a fraction so while they just be at the surface the will not be putting pressure on the rotor. You should be ok.

Not the key to proper brake life is to seat them in. This is where you will make a series of stops to coat the rotors witht he new brake material. THis even coating will help prevent the brake pulse so many think is a warped rotor. It also keeps the pads from glazing.

Read the recomendations under Brake Burnishing Procedures.

http://www.bendixbrakes.com/techCorner/faq.php

This is a good general explanation of how to do this. This procedure will vary a little from company to company but it all does the same job.

Might read the other info here as it explains many misunderstood things about brakes to so many think is gospel.

Note once you do this the pads will smell a little hot but it will not hurt a thing. Just follow the recomendation and it will pay off 10,000, 20,000 and 30,000 miles later.

 

Thanks, 843de and hyperv6. I can have a good sleep tonight.