How to replace rotors and pads on 06 HHR
04-26-2014, 02:21 PM
#61
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,691
HEYYY, HELLO, I HAVE AN HHR LT Wagon 4-Door Engine: 2.2L 2189CC 134Cu. In. l4 FLEX DOHC. IT'S REAR BRAKE DRUMS, AND I AM DOING A CONVERSION TO DISC BRAKES. I HAVE ALMOST EVERYTHING, DISC ROTORS, CALIPERS, PADS. I AM LOOKING FOR THE Rear Adaptor Bracket Caliper Mount Backing Plate, BUT I CANNOT FIND IT. I HAVE SEEN THE PICTURE OF IT, BUT I DON'T HAVE THE PART #. CAN SOMEBODY SEND ME A LINK OF WHERE I CAN FIND IT?, OR THE PART #? PLEASE. THANKS AND HAVE A GREAT DAY
You will find that you need a new rear axle beam from a car that came with rear disc.
04-27-2014, 03:19 PM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
I would recommend checking into this.
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/pro-cut-lathe/
It is getting to the point many cars need to have the rotors matched to the hub anymore and the on car lath is the only way to do it. I know most GM dealers are now using these and some MFG like Honda you have to use these as the run out issues have become ever more of an issue.
So many want to blame cheap rotors and warp but run out is the prime cause of most problems today.
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/pro-cut-lathe/
It is getting to the point many cars need to have the rotors matched to the hub anymore and the on car lath is the only way to do it. I know most GM dealers are now using these and some MFG like Honda you have to use these as the run out issues have become ever more of an issue.
So many want to blame cheap rotors and warp but run out is the prime cause of most problems today.
04-28-2014, 05:24 PM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-20-2011
Location: Savanna Illinois
Posts: 737
I've always used a C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Then last summer I bought this awesome kit from Harbor Freight just for this small thing.
It has all manner of different size round bits for the various size calipers you might encounter on different vehicles and two different bolts with special threaded things to go inside the unmovable part of the caliper your supposed to use they are marked L and R.
It is cumbersome to use so I'm back to using the C clamp again.
It was a waste of money.
Usually before I start doing a brake job I take a turkey baser and remove some brake fluid from the reservoir and put it in a clean cup and put it back if I need to when the job is done.
Some folks add brake fluid to their reservoir as the pads wear down so its a good idea to remove some before you start. I also usually put a fairly clean rag under and over top of the reservoir before I start, it helps to keep things from getting messy.
It has all manner of different size round bits for the various size calipers you might encounter on different vehicles and two different bolts with special threaded things to go inside the unmovable part of the caliper your supposed to use they are marked L and R.
It is cumbersome to use so I'm back to using the C clamp again.
It was a waste of money.
Usually before I start doing a brake job I take a turkey baser and remove some brake fluid from the reservoir and put it in a clean cup and put it back if I need to when the job is done.
Some folks add brake fluid to their reservoir as the pads wear down so its a good idea to remove some before you start. I also usually put a fairly clean rag under and over top of the reservoir before I start, it helps to keep things from getting messy.
04-29-2014, 10:07 AM
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-20-2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 133
I've always used a C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Then last summer I bought this awesome kit from Harbor Freight just for this small thing.
It has all manner of different size round bits for the various size calipers you might encounter on different vehicles and two different bolts with special threaded things to go inside the unmovable part of the caliper your supposed to use they are marked L and R.
It is cumbersome to use so I'm back to using the C clamp again.
It was a waste of money.
Usually before I start doing a brake job I take a turkey baser and remove some brake fluid from the reservoir and put it in a clean cup and put it back if I need to when the job is done.
Some folks add brake fluid to their reservoir as the pads wear down so its a good idea to remove some before you start. I also usually put a fairly clean rag under and over top of the reservoir before I start, it helps to keep things from getting messy.
It has all manner of different size round bits for the various size calipers you might encounter on different vehicles and two different bolts with special threaded things to go inside the unmovable part of the caliper your supposed to use they are marked L and R.
It is cumbersome to use so I'm back to using the C clamp again.
It was a waste of money.
Usually before I start doing a brake job I take a turkey baser and remove some brake fluid from the reservoir and put it in a clean cup and put it back if I need to when the job is done.
Some folks add brake fluid to their reservoir as the pads wear down so its a good idea to remove some before you start. I also usually put a fairly clean rag under and over top of the reservoir before I start, it helps to keep things from getting messy.
04-29-2014, 01:37 PM
#65
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-20-2011
Location: Savanna Illinois
Posts: 737
I did do all 4 disk brakes on an 2012 Audi last summer and did use the kit but did not notice the pistons turning when I pushed them back into the caliper.
I suppose they might have and I just didn't notice. The job went well and I got paid, saved the kids well over twice what the dealer quoted them to get just the front ones done.
When my daughter brought them by for me to look at the car I thought it was awful new to be needing brakes yet but they were making noise on the front ones and were worn down to the bottom of the groove in the back outer pads as well.
I didn't think the car had all that many miles on it {something like 45,000} but they do live at the top of hospital hill here in town so I suppose they ride the brakes all the way down.
I suppose they might have and I just didn't notice. The job went well and I got paid, saved the kids well over twice what the dealer quoted them to get just the front ones done.
When my daughter brought them by for me to look at the car I thought it was awful new to be needing brakes yet but they were making noise on the front ones and were worn down to the bottom of the groove in the back outer pads as well.
I didn't think the car had all that many miles on it {something like 45,000} but they do live at the top of hospital hill here in town so I suppose they ride the brakes all the way down.
05-09-2014, 12:09 PM
#66
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-16-2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 124
The rotors used in the how to have a protective coating on them. EBC (and other rotor and brake howtos) states this coating must be cleaned off prior fitting. Am I missing something here? I've had EBC rotors and pads exclusively on all my vehicles and everytime I've cleaned that black coating off.
05-10-2014, 09:18 AM
#67
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
Again with ABS you should not use a c clamp or compressor. This can push fluid with dirt or rust into the ABS unit and mess it up. Always open the bleeder when compressing.
As for the other parts you do need the tools in some cases to turn the parking brake adjustment back in on rear disc brakes.
As for the coating I am not understanding what you are stating.
Most rotors have a anti rust coating on them if they are bare and brake cleaner will remove it. As for the other anodized coatings they come off on the rotors surface after a few stops.
If one would read through here there as so many different issues and problems with brakes. It also points out there is a lot more to brakes than just changing pads anymore. If done correctly there are many things you should to in a brake job few do let alone know about.
Brakes may look much like they did years ago but there have been a lot of changes. Issues like the so called brake warp and other poor wear issues are often attributed to the lack of knowledge of the installer to the new small changes that the new systems have. Brakes in the last 30 years are not the same in make up or materials and all have different needs vs. what we used to have.
The best thing to do is brush up on the new systems and the needs before you even pick up a wrench. It matter little how good your car runs if you can get it to stop.
What some people think and do scare me on the road. I will never forget the guy who came in to change tires and his drum was worn away accept for the flange between the wheel and axle. I showed him and his only response was oh that is why it does not stop good.
As for the other parts you do need the tools in some cases to turn the parking brake adjustment back in on rear disc brakes.
As for the coating I am not understanding what you are stating.
Most rotors have a anti rust coating on them if they are bare and brake cleaner will remove it. As for the other anodized coatings they come off on the rotors surface after a few stops.
If one would read through here there as so many different issues and problems with brakes. It also points out there is a lot more to brakes than just changing pads anymore. If done correctly there are many things you should to in a brake job few do let alone know about.
Brakes may look much like they did years ago but there have been a lot of changes. Issues like the so called brake warp and other poor wear issues are often attributed to the lack of knowledge of the installer to the new small changes that the new systems have. Brakes in the last 30 years are not the same in make up or materials and all have different needs vs. what we used to have.
The best thing to do is brush up on the new systems and the needs before you even pick up a wrench. It matter little how good your car runs if you can get it to stop.
What some people think and do scare me on the road. I will never forget the guy who came in to change tires and his drum was worn away accept for the flange between the wheel and axle. I showed him and his only response was oh that is why it does not stop good.
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