"How To" Tutorial Library Write tips and instructions on how to install parts or fix problems. This is for detailed "How To's" only, not a forum to ask how to do something. Please post those questions in appropriate forums.

Timing chain tensioner replacement - fix engine rattle

Old Aug 5, 2013 | 08:29 PM
  #41  
alexrckid's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 09-19-2011
Posts: 333
From: myrtle beach, sc
Originally Posted by Oldblue
another job well done!! alexckid
thanks......really like workin on the HHR
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 03:10 PM
  #42  
hurst2001's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 09-03-2006
Posts: 498
From: chicago
I would like to know if all years have the spring loaded tensioners the old type? Did gm ever use the new version in any hhr vehicle? I just got the new one today part# 12608580 and i am scared to death to put it in because of the old type with the tip flying off and going into the oil pan or timing cover .. My hhr has about 165.000 and its a 2007 ls just wondering about if gm ever having put in the new style from factory. I do have the rattle at start up for about two seconds and goes away...
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 08:38 PM
  #43  
alexrckid's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 09-19-2011
Posts: 333
From: myrtle beach, sc
well...was rather worried about the same deal with parts falling into the engine on my 2006. when I bought the "new" oil pressure driven one from my local chevy dealer, I asked one of the service techs, who has done more than this part replacement, if he has ever seen any problems with the spring loaded one upon removal...ne said no. so...went ahead and did the swap...nothing fell into the engine and the entire old spring loaded upon one came out in it's entirety....put some anti-seize on the threads of the new one and cranked it down to 55 ft/lbs..........started it up...chain slap gone...lost a few drops of oil when the old one was pulled.....did the job a few weeks back and has all's good since..............hardest part of the job was getting the old part loose..........
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #44  
alexrckid's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 09-19-2011
Posts: 333
From: myrtle beach, sc
Originally Posted by alexrckid
thanks......really like workin on the HHR
lots easier working on the HHR than my wife's 2005 ford focus....that things a nightmare
Old Aug 19, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #45  
hurst2001's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 09-03-2006
Posts: 498
From: chicago
What i gather is you need a 32 mm thin wall socket put a breaker bar and turn to the drivers side and ease it out , tried with a thicker 32 mm but the head bolt is kind of recess in the block...
Old Aug 21, 2013 | 07:38 PM
  #46  
alexrckid's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 09-19-2011
Posts: 333
From: myrtle beach, sc
Originally Posted by hurst2001
What i gather is you need a 32 mm thin wall socket put a breaker bar and turn to the drivers side and ease it out , tried with a thicker 32 mm but the head bolt is kind of recess in the block...
i used a lisle 32mm(p/n 14700) oil filter socket that i picked up at advance auto. doesnt look like a thin wall socket but worked fine for me on my 2006 hhr. did have to use a swivel head breaker bar to loosten it(along with a short section of pipe over the wrench to give me more torque)....
Old Aug 22, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #47  
Oldblue's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,068
From: Welland,Ont Canada
I have changed the tensioner in both my 2007 HHR 2.2 and my wife's 2003 Sunfire GT 2.2, very east job I used regular 32 MM Craftsman socket and 24 inch Johnson bar to loosen and torque wrench to tighten to specified 55 ft/lbs, a paper towel under the location caught all the oil , maybe 3 drops, on my HHR the tensioner did come apart but a pen magnet retrieved the piece that did not want to leave home in the engine, easy job and no more noise on start up, 220,000 klms for the HR and 306,000 klms for the GT
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 08:57 PM
  #48  
donbrew's Avatar
Moderator
 
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,522
From: Fredericksburg,VA
I was just cruising Amazon and Ebay for pricing the part. I find it amusing that if you call it a Chevrolet part it goes for $30-50, but if you call it a Saab part it's $92-$190. Same part number.

For those that don't get it, Saab was bought by GM for the purpose of gutting the company and acquiring the Ecotec engine and the small car platforms.
Old Oct 9, 2013 | 04:07 PM
  #49  
hhrCC's Avatar
New Member
 
Joined: 08-30-2013
Posts: 7
From: Ptown
did this today.

my 2.2 threw an engine light during test run.

it sounding throaty and drives doggie.

ant help?

2010 LT 2.2L 55K

bolt on the old tension er was rusty.
Old Oct 9, 2013 | 04:11 PM
  #50  
donbrew's Avatar
Moderator
 
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,522
From: Fredericksburg,VA
Originally Posted by hhrCC
did this today.

my 2.2 threw an engine light during test run.

it sounding throaty and drives doggie.

ant help?

2010 LT 2.2L 55K

bolt on the old tension er was rusty.
What's the code? I am guessing it's your flex pipe. Could be you got the "old" style tensioner, which needs additional steps.
Just thought of something else: forgot to hook the MAF sensor back up?

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:29 AM.