bad03xtreme

I have a PC too and I love PoorBoys SSR series for removing swirls.

urbexHHR

I just noticed some scratch marks on the rear door where it flares out. I laughed, because I remember doing it a little over a year ago. Don't use napkins to remove tar. In Alabama I ran through some road tar and when we stopped for lunch at McDonald's I used a napkin to wipe some off...until I noticed it scratched. So now I have some little marks to forever remind me.

IndianaJ.J.

Hi Scott, I have some buffer trail marks in my hood from the dealership where I bought my HHR. It is crystal red tintcoat paint. I don't plan to do any power buffing but can the buffer trails be hand polished out? I hate the way it looks and hope I can fix it. Thanks for your informative post.

hyperv6

You can easily remove them with various hand polish. Meguires Swirl remover followed up with 3M hand glaze will remove most buffer marks. If you can use a orbial Porter Cable it will make it eaiser but it will work well too by hand. Just make sure to use microfiber towels.

I use this combo on my two black cars and the red tintcoat on my Malibu. They look great. I laugh when everyone ask what kind of wax I use. They think it is only wax that leaves it this clean and detailed.

IndianaJ.J.

Thanks hyperv6, I have another silly question. When hand waxing, do you recommend circular motion or more straight back and forth motion? All of the years I have hand waxed my cars, I never gave this a thought. But none of them were brand new and none of them ever showed streaks and swirls like this little gem. So it's like I am suddenly wax stupid. Really I just want to do it right. I love looking at streak and swirl free paint.

Silverfox

My tip of the day is mainly on the Washing part as there are many good products to take the swirls out.
Personally, I use Liquid Dri-Wash in there application bottle. I buy it in the larger bulk bottle and refill the applicator hand pump bottle.
This product is extremely friendly on your clear coat.
Just remember there is a limit to how much polishing you can get away with before you go thru the clear coat so be careful about using power buffers and products of unknown abrasivness.

My tip on Washing is to go to a Self Car Wash and use only the rinse pressure sprayer to wash all the damaging material off the car before you carefully hand wash it.
I have used this method for years and it works.
I .. like Hyper V6, use 2 Wash Mits, one for the upper and one for the lower car body with separate stuff for wheels and tires.

If I get road tar or similar stuff on the car, I use WD-40 directly on the spots to desolve and loosen the tar etc, Then spray the area with an Organic water soluable cleaner called "DP Engine Cleaner" that dissolves the WD-40 and anything else all without harming the paint and also it rinses cleanly.
You can use your own pressure washer as long as the pressure is not over 600 PSI. and pick a medium fan spray nozzle holding it a tested distance from what you are cleaning.

hyperv6

I have been taught both way as it just depends on the detailer. Either work if you are using clean towels and applicators.. I tend to find the circular mostion gives me a more even spread and application.

When I use the circular mostion there are keys to making it come out right. I try to make sure I use a new or perfectly clean applicator. I also have a can of wax just for the black cars to keep the dirt risk to a min. I have often seen paint damage done due to poor condition applicators or dirt in wax.

I spray the wax and applicator with detail spray to keep it moist it flows better. Not wet but moist.

I then use a new or nearly new microfiber towels to remove the wax. Do not let it sit on the car too long as it becomes harder to remove. I also use a little spray detailer to clean up any markes I may miss after I finish the car.
As towels get wear move them to wash duty and other less critical uses. Then toss them once they are used up. They are cheap and your first line to getting a good finish. One bad towel can waste the rest of your work.

jaymz

Here's my recipe for perfect paint:

The process: Wash; evaluate; correct; protect.

Tool: Griots 6" DA polisher (has the most "nuts" of any DA; lifetime warranty)

The best wash is Optimum No Rinse. A true paradigm shift; totally amazing stuff. Leaves paint glowing w/no water spots.

Claybar (if necessary)

Swirl Correction: Meguiars #105 or Ultimate Compound on a Lake Country orange or yellow pad. #105 has a learning curve, but UC is easy.

Polishing: Megs #205 or Ultimate Polish. UP will add some nice depth and wetness to the paint. Easy to use with a LC white pad. This is the step that has the biggest payoff to a wet glasslike finish.

Protection: Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant with a LC red pad. Totally amazing slickness, wetness and depth.

You can top with a wax, but not necessary. Colonite 845 is a great, durable wax.

I top it all with Wet Glaze 2.0 on a LC red or blue pad.

Jim

1hhrowner

3m swirl mark remover is the best product out there, to use to remove swirl marks, not hide them. Followed up with any good carnuba wax, by hand, following the manufacturers specs. Proper use of the pads, in this case, I would use foam pads by 3m, will do the job. Ebony is also a good product for dark colored, 2 stage paint. In other words, a clear coat.

SS fan

Welcome to the site, 1hhrowner. Thanks for the tip.

I have to say the Griot's machine is great, with theirs polishes too, nice to live 9miles from the garage.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...%26+wax+kit.do