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Did you test the wheels for being in the positions the computer thinks they are in? It is the RCDLR that is being program,med so if 1 works they all should work unless the bad one is really on the driver front corner. The tool and releasing air just "excite" the transmitter in the wheel (makes it transmit it's serial number.
You could start at any corner, the computer would assign that one to Front Left.
I tried using both of those worthless relearn tools I bought multiple times with succeeding. I tried one tire after another pressing the button multiple times at every possible angle to get a response. One time, I got a hit with it on the driver's side front but couldn't get anything from the passenger side. I started over trying it on the other tires to see if any of them would respond. Once I did get the new sensor to acknowledge the green one - but only that one time. I wish I had my money back (zero stars - don't waste your money). I gave up. After stewing about the lack of success, I decided to try the old fashion way without the tools and let air out of the tires. I was encouraged that the new sensor had been accepted once with the tool. As I started around letting air out of the tires, I was having success! Driver's side front - success! Passenger side front (the new sensor) - success! The passenger side rear - success! The driver's side rear - FAIL! NUTS!
At least I know the sensors I bought will work. Next up, wait for our weather to cycle back to warmer and dryer - (Sunday looks good right now) so I can change the other sensors. I ordered a valve stem installation tool to make pulling the new stems in easier. It should be here soon. Every couple of days our temps hit the skids and can't make up to freezing. It's 65 right now. Tonight, we've got a flash flood warning, followed by snow tomorrow making working outside pretty tough right now.
I had trouble keeping the tire squeezed down so I could remove the screw in the sensor. The bead breaker helped. I used it on one side and a block of wood on the other to keep the bead pushed down just far enough to remove the screw. The tires are so stiff, standing on the sidewall after breaking the bead doesn't compress them. Any ideas to make that easier would help.
As a former tire buster (before TPMS) the fastest way is to whack the stem with the tire removal tool, The second best way is ti act like the stem is being installed and bend the tool over the rim and keep pulling until it pops, sometimes it pulls out usually it just breaks at the rim; whichever victory!
These are different tools but the use is the same.
I've got the Milton valve stem puller coming in a day or two.
The brass stem the sensor fastens to isn't just a hollow tube. It would be hard to snap it off and with the sensor fastened to it, it's not going to come out very hard before it hits the rim. I think the safest way to get it out without destroying something is to remove the screw even though that's a PITA. I thought about trying to get some sidecutters on it but there's not enough room and it would take a tremendous squeeze to cut it. Using a saw would make all sorts of filings I'd rather not deal with. I don't want to risk dropping anything inside the tire and having to dismount the tire to get it out. That's why I had the rag pushed in under the sensor in my pictures. I'm trying to get by just breaking the bead and squeezing the tire enough to get at the screw and push the replacement into the hole afterwards.
Then you use the procedure like that, if you’re more comfortable.
thecold tire buster method won’t work on TPMS sensors but may get them up higher to access the screw.
Again, thanks to everyone's help here on the forum and a couple of warm days, I was able to finish replacing all the sensors yesterday, rotated the tires today and successfully complete the relearning procedure letting air out of each tire just now. All is well and the Information Center is pleased to display the correct tire pressures once again.
I used the valve stem installer to bend the valve stem over a little making access to the screws easier. I tried a little too hard on one and snapped the threads off. Even on that one, there was enough threads still showing to get the tool back on it and tilt it over. Stuffing a rag underneath where I was working keep from loosing the tools down inside the tire. By only breaking down one side and not allowing the tire to turn I'm hoping I won't need to have the tires balanced again. The tire shop I had balance them used the Hunter GSP9700 Road Force System (now called "Road Force Elite") and it was perfect. It was a one man shop and he retired - I'm going to miss him! If you want a perfectly smooth ride after purchasing tires, see who in your area has one https://www.hunter.com/find-equipment/
Forums like this one are valuable tools in maintaining our vehicles. Thank you all very much!
I know I posted a comment about this on a prior thread once upon a time somewhere here but my local Sam’s Club charged me $35 each installed. Exact same price whether it was with new tires or without, in which case they removed the wheels from the vehicle, dismounted my old tires, R&R’ed the sensors, remounted the tires and balanced them, and put the wheels back one the car wherever I wanted them, so effectively a free rotation too.
That’s a huge difference in labor, so I questioned it and they insisted that’s how they were supposed to price it. Could be the local yokels had it wrong, so your results may vary.
Also, one of the bargain sensors seems to have failed after just two years. Gonna pay them a visit and see what they say.
02-16-2022, 07:38 AM
