Kokomo

'06 LT Automatic 2.4

When driving, once you're in 4th gear with what looks like the TC locked (looks like it shifts to a mini 5th gear) it makes a whine right at exactly 2,000RPM. If you slow down below 2000 or accelerate above 2000 it goes away. I thought it was the A/C compressor but if you shut the compressor off the noise is still there. If I accelerate normally the 1-2 is regular then it goes into third for a quarter of a second then 4th, then the whine. I just had the transmission serviced by a shop 2 weeks ago just to make sure it wasn't something I did wrong when I did it and that seemed to help a little, could've been a placebo.

It also shifts pretty harshly unless you're really getting into it. I've read here that the TCM/ECM can cause this and it's no fault of the transmission itself? Funny thing is, if I floor it and it winds all the way out the shifts are much smoother than at 1/3 throttle. You don't even feel em, just silks right through 1-2-3. Since my remote start does not work and my EVAP test refuses to run I'm going to yank a battery cable and reset it tonight. Last time I did that it idled at like 2500rpm for a week hope that doesn't happen again Still no CEL either! No pending/perm/current codes.

Oldblue

While the battery negative terminal is disconnected, take the TCM connector apart and clean the pins and apply some dielectric grease and reconnect the connection, it might be a corroded pin, loose pin or wire

donbrew

The EVAP code is the cause of the hard shifting. It is probably masking other codes.

Kokomo

The thing is, there is no code. The monitor is just been stuck on not ready for months and thousands of miles. When I scan it it comes out clean except for the catalyst and evap being not ready. How do it get it to force the test? I've tried a couple guides no luck

donbrew

They don't run because something is wrong. Every time you reset the computer ,either with a scanner or by disconnecting the battery they all start from scratch.

Here is a pdf about the catalyst and EVAP tests (DTCs):
p0341_p0446.pdf

Kokomo

Ok so a couple things happened after the battery reboot, the transmission does shift smoother now, and the idle has started randomly surging for a few seconds once it was warmed up and you'd come to a stop. It'd idle normally then start stumbling and surging and the whole car would move slightly as the idle bounced. After a few seconds that went away. I think it's learning.

Right after connecting the battery before starting it with the key I thought for shiz and giggles I'd try the remote start and it worked! Unfortunately that was the only time it would do it. After turning off and on and driving it once it won't do it anymore. No codes or anything. I think it actually may be the connector under the hood, it won't clip in so it could be wiggling loose while still looking connected. The clip and other plug are in good shape so I'm not sure why it won't click. Do our cars have a "Hood Open" message on the DIC? Sometimes the parking lights flash once right away after hitting lock>lock>start and sometimes it takes about 3 seconds to flash the lights. Both times the lights flash only once. When it remote started it didn't flash at all, just fired right up and the parking lights turned on steady.

Oldblue

Yes there is a hood open sensor, that disables the remote start.

Kokomo

Ah okay, it doesn't say anything when I pop the hood or open it. Dang, at least it looks like a replacement is only like 40 bucks.

Oldblue

But if it is the hood ajar switch, that’s integrated into the hood latch

https://www.factoryoemparts.com/06-1...95321-15895321

Way more coin!

Lonwane

Not if you go to your local auto recycling center.
Although, one without a crunched front end seems a hard find