Is this module a node on the CAN bus? (What's the node address?) I had been pondering removing the pass seat, but this latest adventure tells me its not so simple.
But if its a CAN bus node I might be able to whip up a 'test pipe' (showing my age) with a PIC microcontroler. (Some have built in CAN interfaces)
I have a few CAN bus hacking tools.

 

If it is "historic" it does not matter, that just means it happened one time and is now fixed.

Go back even farther to 10Base2. Can bus is that simple. No address just 2 terminating resistors One in the ECM and one in the BCM.

No, the PPS is not on the bus, the SDM is.

 

CAN bus certainly does have addresses. The 10Base2 is just the layer 1 aspect (But I'd say its closer to RS-485/422). The CNC lasers I service that have CAN bus, each node has an address. Need them so they know who's asking for what. If a command or data is just blindly broadcast how would anything know what it is and where it came from and how to react? There is also a 'master' node too.
But moot for me since the PPS isn't on the bus directly.

 

Here is a vid of one of the guys that developed the GMlan.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...can-bus-56781/

 

Here's one I tried out of frustration, I loosened the tilt wheel lock. Slamming the steering wheel up and down 5 or 6 times...Hooray! The light went off!!!!!

 

Had this issue with mine when I bought it, in fact I used it as an excuse to lower the price. Like shown in this thread, I went into the passenger kick panel, sprayed the yellow connector with electronics cleaner really good and followed up with dielectric grease. Did the same for the connectors under the seat just in case. So far it's been a couple of weeks and no issues. Once again, thanks for this forum for saving me bucks because I didn't not want to mess around with the local chevy dealer who wanted $150 to reprogram my keys when it was just the buttons on the fob that needed replacing.

 

reprogramming keys is free! Look in your Owner Manual.

 

My bad - meant the fob, not the key. One wasn't working at all and the other worked intermittently. Turns out the electronics were good, it was the rubber keypad. Simple R&R with the parts from a $14 Amazon replacement.