Another blower motor issue
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 01-09-2021
Posts: 122
From: Buckner Illinois
Well I’m sorry man I’ve been away from the automotive game for awhile. I just like tinkering with my car and try to figure out what I can. I’ll keep prodding and figure something out. I always do
Senior Member
Joined: 04-27-2021
Posts: 570
From: Alabama
I should have removed the LCAs it would have made the job much easier. And perhaps a drill press and a bearing press might have made short work out of it. But I basically did what you said except my drill bit selection sucked. And I kept dulling them quickly as I went. The hardened steel of the rivets made it too easy for the bit to “walk off” and drill through the aluminum even though I used a punch and a smaller bit.
I ended up with offset holes that I had to burr out somewhat to get them to line up with the new ball joints.
I kinda went into the job half blind, not doing my homework as usual, and didn’t even know they were held in by rivets until I got there. By then., I was pretty much committed as we needed the car fixed but if I had to do it over I’d definitely buy the LCA assembly verses all this work.
I ended up with offset holes that I had to burr out somewhat to get them to line up with the new ball joints.
I kinda went into the job half blind, not doing my homework as usual, and didn’t even know they were held in by rivets until I got there. By then., I was pretty much committed as we needed the car fixed but if I had to do it over I’d definitely buy the LCA assembly verses all this work.
mess up your A arm (temper). The idea is 2 things….slightly expand the aluminum and stick paraffin candle to the rivet….it will “wick” the wax between rivet and aluminum….if it ever moves any…it will come out. I viberation from air hammer works very well but again dont get crazy. How I did mine…years of metal working experience
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 01-09-2021
Posts: 122
From: Buckner Illinois
That’s pretty solid advice
i I know I’m gonna have to do this job over because I can feel that it’s not right. My camber is out.
One of my thoughts are, to buy a used set off eBay, there seems to be a few of them that already have bolts in the ball joints. I don’t know if that’s because someone already did the job or maybe Chevy changed the design.
there is also a few aftermarket aluminum ones on Amazon that have bolts. I know the ball joints and probably the bushings are junk in those. So I’m sure I’d be doing the job again in a few thousand miles.
this is all good for future searches as well. I know I’ve fixed my car quite a few times by reading topics like this that are even several years old
i I know I’m gonna have to do this job over because I can feel that it’s not right. My camber is out.
One of my thoughts are, to buy a used set off eBay, there seems to be a few of them that already have bolts in the ball joints. I don’t know if that’s because someone already did the job or maybe Chevy changed the design.
there is also a few aftermarket aluminum ones on Amazon that have bolts. I know the ball joints and probably the bushings are junk in those. So I’m sure I’d be doing the job again in a few thousand miles.
this is all good for future searches as well. I know I’ve fixed my car quite a few times by reading topics like this that are even several years old
Senior Member
Joined: 04-27-2021
Posts: 570
From: Alabama
That’s pretty solid advice
i I know I’m gonna have to do this job over because I can feel that it’s not right. My camber is out.
One of my thoughts are, to buy a used set off eBay, there seems to be a few of them that already have bolts in the ball joints. I don’t know if that’s because someone already did the job or maybe Chevy changed the design.
there is also a few aftermarket aluminum ones on Amazon that have bolts. I know the ball joints and probably the bushings are junk in those. So I’m sure I’d be doing the job again in a few thousand miles.
this is all good for future searches as well. I know I’ve fixed my car quite a few times by reading topics like this that are even several years old
i I know I’m gonna have to do this job over because I can feel that it’s not right. My camber is out.
One of my thoughts are, to buy a used set off eBay, there seems to be a few of them that already have bolts in the ball joints. I don’t know if that’s because someone already did the job or maybe Chevy changed the design.
there is also a few aftermarket aluminum ones on Amazon that have bolts. I know the ball joints and probably the bushings are junk in those. So I’m sure I’d be doing the job again in a few thousand miles.
this is all good for future searches as well. I know I’ve fixed my car quite a few times by reading topics like this that are even several years old
Senior Member
Joined: 04-27-2021
Posts: 570
From: Alabama
if you have access to hydraulic press that would be best….after drilling the inside and hollow them out (relieve some pressure)….press them out
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Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,541
From: Fredericksburg,VA
If you have 12V on the brown wire and jump the Orange wire to ground the fan should run. That tests the blower motor.
Test the switch by looking for continuity between Orange, lt blue, tan and yellow and ground while selecting the speed. Orange is high, lt blue is M2, tan is M1, yellow is low, black is ground.
If you have 12v on the brown wire the relay and fuse are good.. Make sure Dark Green is Ground when off and open when on (that enables/disables the AC compressor).
Check the resistor pack by testing for continuity between pins C & B, B & A, A & D. Disconnect the pack first. If you really care test for resistance in stead of continuity, look in the shop manual to find what the values should be. Continuity is what counts unless they are all the same.
I know I have posted the wiring diagram 10 or more times, it is in the shop manual you can get via the link in my signature. If you don't see my sig use the "full" site. Or, just go to charm.li.
Test the switch by looking for continuity between Orange, lt blue, tan and yellow and ground while selecting the speed. Orange is high, lt blue is M2, tan is M1, yellow is low, black is ground.
If you have 12v on the brown wire the relay and fuse are good.. Make sure Dark Green is Ground when off and open when on (that enables/disables the AC compressor).
Check the resistor pack by testing for continuity between pins C & B, B & A, A & D. Disconnect the pack first. If you really care test for resistance in stead of continuity, look in the shop manual to find what the values should be. Continuity is what counts unless they are all the same.
I know I have posted the wiring diagram 10 or more times, it is in the shop manual you can get via the link in my signature. If you don't see my sig use the "full" site. Or, just go to charm.li.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,096
From: Welland,Ont Canada
As for drilling out the rivets and oblonging the holes, absolutely not! You need the holes drilled out straight.
I don’t have a press, I drill the rivets dead centre, in steps. Then drive them out with a drift punch and 16” oz BFH.
I don’t have a press, I drill the rivets dead centre, in steps. Then drive them out with a drift punch and 16” oz BFH.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 01-09-2021
Posts: 122
From: Buckner Illinois
I am not 100% certain. The orange wire seems to be the one melted. I deemed that’s the connection where the voltage bypasses the resistor when the fan switch is on high. So that’s the connection that will take the most voltage/abuse
In my past experiences with electrical connections, meltdowns usually occur in the weakest points when voltage passes so it’s possible the connection was not solid at that particular point. As I recall, the blower never worked on high so I just used 1-3 and never dealt with it. Makes sense. I think the heat and arcing finally melted the wire enough to heat the connector enough to affect the whole plug finally.
It wasn’t easy but I managed to secure a new pigtail on eBay and believe it or not I found a new blower switch (just the switch) on Amazon so I can replace the whole affected unit since they were both charcoaled.
I’ll use some dielectric grease and hopefully eliminate this issue in the future after I get the new plug soldered in
I remember being a truck driver for 34 years, throughout the 90s the Coleman 12 volt coolers were a real popular item back then but they were known for the 12 volt plugs constantly melting. This happened often enough that there was a class action lawsuit over the faulty product. It was finally determined that the plugs at the cigarette lighter connecter was jiggling loose from the road vibrations.
the same principle, loose electrical connection
In my past experiences with electrical connections, meltdowns usually occur in the weakest points when voltage passes so it’s possible the connection was not solid at that particular point. As I recall, the blower never worked on high so I just used 1-3 and never dealt with it. Makes sense. I think the heat and arcing finally melted the wire enough to heat the connector enough to affect the whole plug finally.
It wasn’t easy but I managed to secure a new pigtail on eBay and believe it or not I found a new blower switch (just the switch) on Amazon so I can replace the whole affected unit since they were both charcoaled.
I’ll use some dielectric grease and hopefully eliminate this issue in the future after I get the new plug soldered in
I remember being a truck driver for 34 years, throughout the 90s the Coleman 12 volt coolers were a real popular item back then but they were known for the 12 volt plugs constantly melting. This happened often enough that there was a class action lawsuit over the faulty product. It was finally determined that the plugs at the cigarette lighter connecter was jiggling loose from the road vibrations.
the same principle, loose electrical connection