Here is the pinout.

 

That makes sense, orange, circuit 52, resistor bypass/blower high. When I was googling the part numbers I ran across various HHR owners who suffered the same fate.

it’s probably one of those smaller issues that affect enough owners but not large enough to be widely known

 

And for any folk from the future, here’s a couple pics of my orders to help point you in the right direction.
i was searching for the entire module which isn’t made anymore but fortunately the plug is available

 

I’m sure everyone is getting tired of me. But I’m in to another issue that I have not posted about yet.
But it’s a known issue.

my LCAs arrived. But my car has its share of undercarriage rust, and I am struck with the infamous cage nut/bolt where the nut spins.

i found several posts about it here, including one one OldBlue explained to someone that he had to remove the steering rack and I think away bar to get access to the nut with vise grips.

but my situation is a bit different. It looks like, the driver side bolt is so rotted it’s actually spinning IN the nut, the threads are gone/stripped. So even when I get to the actual nut, I’m not sure how on earth I’m going to coerce the bolt out. Maybe a pair of air nibblers or something.

I put it all together, for now, and the car drives good except now I have a pop in the front end where the bolt is a bit loose. If anyone’s had a ford truck from the 1990s might know and relate it to a loose huck rivit. From the factory.

i found the new bolts on rockauto and ordered them. So im going to have to tackle this job sooner or later. I’ll take any cheerleading or coaching anyone wants to give

 

I did also post about a new nut you would have to cut to size and drill and tap the threads for the 14-2 bolt.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-66737/

This shows for a 9/16 fine thread bolt, but a 14-2 is better!

 

My lord this is getting deep. I can’t seem too touch this car without a new dilemma cropping up.

So there’s no way a standard nut to match the new bolt can be sourced and put in place to tighten this thing up and held by a wrench?

 

You can get a nut from local hardware or TSC and install that. You might still have to remove the steering rack and sway bar in order to get a sawzall or grinder in there to cut the bolt . Grind the head of the bolt off then drive the shank if the bolt up so you can cut under the cage nut

 

That’s probably what I will try. I read elsewhere that the sway bar has to be cut out because it wont come out with the LCA in place! What you posted was clever however. I tip my hat to that engineering

 

The sway bar comes out the passenger side, the steering rack comes out the driver’s you will have to remove the rear transmission mount

 

I still have not figured out how is possible.

I ran across this, there are a bunch mostly Cobalt.