I've got a spinning sound (like a bad bearing) that rises and lowers with wheel speed. I had the sound before that I was able to isolate to the driver side bearing by weaving hard on a country road at a decent speed.

It sounds the same so I went to the same road and did the same test. Cornering and weaving make no difference. It does sound like it's coming from the passenger side.

Could it be a bad bearing but not get louder cornering? Is there a different way to check (other than paying someone to check it)?

Is there anything else that it could be?

 

If it is indeed directly related to wheel speed, it could be hub, cv axle, brakes, or... hmmmm... playing cards in the spokes? Seriously, though, it could be some kind of debris in the wheel or hubcap. Loose lugnuts? OK, I'm about out of ideas, but if you only replaced one hub, very likely it's the hub. We recommend replacing them in pairs.

 

Flex pipe.

 

Thank you both for your quick response.

RJ_RS_SS_350 - Yes. I only replaced one of the hubs. On a budget, I couldn't justify fixing something that wasn't broken. I've ordered another one - hopefully that is the issue.

donbrew - This is the first I've heard of the flex pipe. If the hub doesn't fix my issue, I'll be back to explore this further.

 

Had this exact same problem recently. Humming noise going straight and swerving left. Swerving right the noise vanished. Replaced the right side and it still made the noise. I bought 2 Detroit Axle wheel bearings at the same time hoping I'd have a spare on the shelf. Nope, had to replace the left side also, then the noise disappeared. Just happy it wasn't a rear wheel bearing, those cost much more and are a little more involved to replace. The OEM bearings went a long way, 170k. The replacements dont last worth a crap. Napa brand lasted about 2 years, about 12k... Rock Auto's economy brand made it 15 months, or 8k. Detroit Axle brand in it now.. They were all torqued correctly also. I can change a wheel bearing with both eyes tied behind my back in less than 20 minutes per side now. lol

 

The rears used to be a lot cheaper.
The way to test is to jack a wheel up and push/pull on the wheel, if you can feel ANY movement it is bad. The end play tolerance is .005 inch, if you want to use a gauge.

 

A replace the rear axle bearing hub guide


I didn’t have to remove the brakes

 

I checked them out yesterday and the rear wheels are tight as in no movement and they spin nice and smooth.

 

That is good, better inspected and know you’re good to go.