Dear all,

Blower fan first stopped working in all speeds. Was working fine, no rain, then blew in smoke through the vents, and that was that...

Resistor's white ceramic bit looks cooked, but the resistor looks a lot less cooked than I expected given the amount of smoke I got through the vents!! Could something else somewhere have caused that smoke? What? and Where?

PS- BCM 3 30a fuse under the hood is blown. all other related fuses seem ok.

 

If there is power to the motor terminal than its the fan motor, if there is no power to the fan than its the resistor






Welcome to the site!

 

Thanks oldblue, have not done the electrical test yet since the fuse is blown. I stuck my hand through the filter gap to move the motor's blades and they do move, but not loosely. They felt hard to move. Also, like I said, the resistor looks like it cooked the little ceramic bit looks broken and burnt. Could both be bad?

 

You have a 2007, some of them have the "butyl patch". Use the words in quotes in the search box (top,center) on any page to find out where it is and how to fix it if you have one.

 

Hi Donbrew, Heard about that patch thing. Will look into it and fix that too as soon as I figure out what croaked in the blower system. So far the fuse, and the resistor. I fear the motor is a goner too, unless those blades are supposed to be that hard to spin with the tips of my fingers...

Any tricks for removing the glove box? I got the mounting fastener screw off and the clips released, but two of the hinges latch from the top ad the center from the bottom. How are you supposed to just "lift" the glovebox off as it says on the Chilton book...

 

Your Owner Manual shows how there is a link in my sig to get one.
Just pull the 2 tabs in and watch the contents dump on the floor.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-change-52300/

If you are trying to get to the motor, that's not the way, it must be cut out. There is a how-to.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...n-motor-49542/

If you do have a failed patch that is what did the damage.

 

AND if the patch is what caused failure IT WILL CAUSE FAILURE AGAIN. Back when my blower motor went out I researched about how to replace it and was terrified about having to cut the thing out. Needless to say when I went out to my car (a 2006... ALL of them have the butyl issue) the blower motor had already been replaced, so thankfully it was easy for me. About a year or so later and that one started squeaking like all hell too. My advice is to fix the butyl patch now before you replace the motor.

 

Oldblue, my son just had this happen. Fan was blowing and then just stopped. Is there any special way of checking the motor terminal to see if it is the resistor or the fan? Just unplug and use tester light for 12volts?

 

Not oldblue, but normally if the resistor is bad the fan works but only on high.

If you know how to use a VOM the tests to do are just the normal tests.