X2 on test the battery and the ground connections!!
Look for brittle or burnt ground wires.

 

Thanks Donbrew

I reinspected the MAF connector and it is/was securely connected.

I'll have the battery load tested today or tomorrow (start simple). If the battery isn't the cause, we're back to wiring which brings up the below questions.


May the pins/connectors be inspected without any special tools? Aside from improperly crimped wires/connectors should I be looking for anything else?
Examples:

• May the wires be properly crimped yet still have enough wiggle within the connector to require the connector to be replaced?
• Can a connector visually appear to be fine yet still be broken?

Also, should there be no wire movement at all or is a little movement acceptable so long as the pin appears to be properly crimped?

I apologize for asking so many questions. I just want to ensure I check everything y'all recommend the way you recommend during the next inspection as to avoid wasting y'alls time.

This is the second time I've dealt with this exact same series of codes within the last year. Searching this site last year caused me to pull, clean and reinstall the TB and MAF connectors last year which, appeared to, resolve the issue...until now.

Thanks in advance.

 

Eyeballs. Inspect for bent/broken pins. Be careful when reconnecting, use dielectric grease.

 

There should be not loose fit of the wire into the connection!

 

I had the battery inspected at 3 different stores and they all said it was bad. I cleared the codes, replaced the battery and, so far, the codes have not returned. Also, the stereo is not as buggy as it was. I am not sure how the battery never had problems starting the car while bad but I'm not going to complain if a $110 part fixed the problem.

Now that I know a seemingly good battery likely caused my grief I am definitely going to add some new ground wires.

 

The TSB was right on!

 

Yup! Post 11 low voltage causes an unexplainable amount of issues.
Glad you got it fixed

 

Reading through this forum has been a blessing since I have owned my 2006 HHR. Many different issues but nothing that couldn't be solved.

My latest headache was a sudden Reduced Engine Power with a check engine light. First time this happens to me on any car. No power upon acceleration and struggled to make it home which luckily, I was within a mile.

The following day, the Reduce Engine Power was gone but the Check Engine Light was still there. I drove it with no issue to my local auto parts store to have them scan for codes. The results was a P060E which I was handed a printed sheet which indicated a fault in the Internal Control Module Throttle Position Performance.

Right away I was told to replace the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which I wasn't buying. I went home and read on here from the OP and his results and from other sources online about this frequent issue on our HHRs.

These are the steps I took to remove the check engine light and solve the Reduce Engine Power nightmare in my vehicle. So far so good and thanks to all those who share on this forum.

1. I chased the engine wire harness. Inspected the area and did notice some mild chafing but no damaged wire insulation. I taped around the chafed area with electric tape and zipped tied the bundle away from that evil corner where the harness and the engine met.

2. Removed the two ECM fuses on the engine compartment fuse box for a few minutes and while I waited I checked all the other fuses and made sure they all sat firm. Installed the two ECM fuses and installed fuse box cover.

3. Removed ECM fuse from inside passenger side fuse box compartment for a couple of minutes. While I waiting I checked all other fuses and made sure they sat firm. Installed ECM fuse and installed cover panel.

4. Removed throttle body and noticed a heavy coat of oil around inner throttle body intake tube. Cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and a lint free rag. Cleaned the intake tube well and inspected the throttle body seal. It was well and intact as I had replaced it a few months ago. Installed everything back on.

5. Removed the mas flow sensor and inspected the connector. Everything was well but I did blow dry air on connector and sprayed the mass flow sensor with mass flow sensor cleaner. Installed everything back on.

Started the car and the check engine light was gone. Drove the car around for a few miles and everything seemed well. It has been a few days and no issues. Not sure what could have caused this issue but it's been great ever since. I will update if the issue persist.

I hope this can help you all before you buy costly car parts that are probably not the problem. I was told by the guy at the auto parts store I needed to buy a PCM which to this date, I believe it wasn't my issue to begin with.

 

For the oil in the throttle body have a look, here

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/2-2l...ormance-58332/


Since I've installed the tank , no more oil sucked down into the elbow just before the throttle body.