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Coolant tank

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Old 12-12-2016, 10:15 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
This has the best pic and explanation I could find.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...ank-pic-55772/

If your coolant is still not visible, add a small amount before you take the car out for the day, before you start it, when the engine is cold. To test strength, you would draw your sample from under the radiator cap, also when cold(for personal safety).
I have tried to remove the radiator cap when the engine was cool but it won't turn. What is the best way to loosen it? I've thought about using pliers but I don't want to break it.
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:10 AM
  #12  
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The largest channel locks (don't need name brand) you can find will do the job. 12 inch might work, but larger is better. Don't try to go around the cap; put the jaws in a perpendicular between the finger grips on opposite sides.

https://www.channellock.com/440-Straight-Jaw-Plier.aspx
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:46 AM
  #13  
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Channel locks are probably best as said above. My method involved a washcloth and a whole hell of alot of cursing and sweating. Just squeeze that f****r as hard as you can and turn. Key thing is to push down first then turn at least that is what I did. I had to replace mine after I had the dealer flush and fill the coolant system and the cap had developed a slow leak; whatever tech that put the cap back on must've instilled some kind of voodoo tightening magic.
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Old 12-14-2016, 03:41 PM
  #14  
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I used channel locks and had no problem getting it off other than scraping my knuckles on the engine cover. I tested the coolant and it's good to -25 degrees. Since I live in a place where it can get down to -50 degrees I wonder if that's good enough.

Should I add a little full strength coolant to get more freeze protection or not? As I said before I can't even see any coolant in the tank so there's room for more.
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Old 12-14-2016, 03:57 PM
  #15  
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It won't raise the coolant effective freeze protection so just a 50/50 mix of Dexcool
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:26 PM
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OK. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:59 PM
  #17  
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Well now, if you're only protected to -25*, then your dilution ratio is only 40% dex. Or maybe if it is past it's life expectancy, I don't know about that. If you're sure it's not old, you probably should put a stronger mix in there. If you don't know how old it is, you probably should flush it. There should be a chart on the bottle of full strength, of mix ratio for freeze protection.

Ah, here's a chart. http://www.luisa.com.gt/sites/defaul...x_dex_cool.pdf
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:18 PM
  #18  
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quote "Since I live in a place where it can get down to -50 degrees "

Hmm. Not sure of many places in the US that can get that cold.
Fwiw. If you're referring to a wind chill of -50, then don't worry about it. Wind chill values don't apply to cars. Only the actual temp.
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:22 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by firemangeorge
quote "Since I live in a place where it can get down to -50 degrees "

Hmm. Not sure of many places in the US that can get that cold.
Fwiw. If you're referring to a wind chill of -50, then don't worry about it. Wind chill values don't apply to cars. Only the actual temp.
Yes, that would be the wind chill. I didn't know it made a difference to cars. Do you know why?
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:46 AM
  #20  
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In a nutshell, wind chill values are what the temperature feels like to a person. Not your vehicle.

Google "Does wind chill affect automobiles". Several interesting articles.
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