CV joints or brakes issue !?
04-23-2014, 12:00 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-04-2012
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 15
CV joints or brakes issue !?
2006 2LT 2.4 159000 Km / 98798 miles
Got a nasty issue after installing new rotors and pads - actually I updated to SS non brembo discs did it myself without any issues thank you Chevy HHR forum for instructions :)
I have the ATE discs PremiumOne with the RotorLife wear indicator and the Weber Ceramic pads, so far they work exceptional superb stopping power!!!
Issue: right after backing up from the garage I had the wheels turned all the way to the left I heard a clunk-clunk-clunk noise after going straight no noise.
The day after took the car out for a spin again tuning right the noise is back drove about 20 hwy km turned right again no noise, left the car sitting for about 2 hrs noise is back...
This morning drove to work heard the noise however a bit dumped - arrived at work (12 hwy km away) and in the parking lot I drove tight circles with the steering wheel all the way to the left no noise all the way to the right no noise. I know this is the way to test the CV joints if they click (clunk) they area going bad.
At high speed 120 Km/h and up, I can feel a slight vibration, below it runs smooth.
So the question is could this be because of the groves for the ware indicator in the brakes or the CV Joints are going bad and if they are going bad why so inconsistent ? or did I do something wrong while installing the new brakes ...
Got a nasty issue after installing new rotors and pads - actually I updated to SS non brembo discs did it myself without any issues thank you Chevy HHR forum for instructions :)
I have the ATE discs PremiumOne with the RotorLife wear indicator and the Weber Ceramic pads, so far they work exceptional superb stopping power!!!
Issue: right after backing up from the garage I had the wheels turned all the way to the left I heard a clunk-clunk-clunk noise after going straight no noise.
The day after took the car out for a spin again tuning right the noise is back drove about 20 hwy km turned right again no noise, left the car sitting for about 2 hrs noise is back...
This morning drove to work heard the noise however a bit dumped - arrived at work (12 hwy km away) and in the parking lot I drove tight circles with the steering wheel all the way to the left no noise all the way to the right no noise. I know this is the way to test the CV joints if they click (clunk) they area going bad.
At high speed 120 Km/h and up, I can feel a slight vibration, below it runs smooth.
So the question is could this be because of the groves for the ware indicator in the brakes or the CV Joints are going bad and if they are going bad why so inconsistent ? or did I do something wrong while installing the new brakes ...
04-23-2014, 03:40 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-24-2007
Location: Seville. OH
Posts: 2,873
A cv that is failing will make noise most of the time.
The noise was not there before your brake work was done so I would start there first. Go back over everything and tighten all the bolts.
Look for ware marks on and around bolts and fastener.
Make sure the hub where the rotor fits is clean with no rust build up.
The noise was not there before your brake work was done so I would start there first. Go back over everything and tighten all the bolts.
Look for ware marks on and around bolts and fastener.
Make sure the hub where the rotor fits is clean with no rust build up.
04-25-2014, 08:48 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-04-2012
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 15
So... after some investigation and quotes from a few shops while describing over and over what is going on I realized it might be not the CV joint itself going bad.
The sound is not a click sound is more like a thump sound and I can feel it in the steering wheel being pushed back in the opposite direction at the same time.
In my opinion the shaft jumped out of the transmission when I lifted the car to change the brakes, I can see some oil on the transmission under the right inner joint ... any thoughts on this !?
Monday I have an appointment to diagnose the issue.
The sound is not a click sound is more like a thump sound and I can feel it in the steering wheel being pushed back in the opposite direction at the same time.
In my opinion the shaft jumped out of the transmission when I lifted the car to change the brakes, I can see some oil on the transmission under the right inner joint ... any thoughts on this !?
Monday I have an appointment to diagnose the issue.
04-25-2014, 09:13 AM
#4
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,099
No. The shaft can't "jump" out of the transmission just because you jacked it up and changed rotors/pads.
Just a guess here. Take a close look at the lower control arm bushings.
And recheck all your previous work. Still sounds like maybe an installation error.
Just a guess here. Take a close look at the lower control arm bushings.
And recheck all your previous work. Still sounds like maybe an installation error.
.... don't know how the heck is this possible ...
04-25-2014, 10:26 AM
#6
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Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
Hmmm...scratches head. That's a new one on me, usually the halfshafts put up a struggle when you intentionally try to pull them.
But the leakage from the seal does mean it'll have to come all the way out. When the splines dragged across the seal, they did it in.
At this point, especially considering the mileage you have on it, go for a remanufactured half shaft in addition to a new seal.
There is a small seal protection tool available to keep you from damaging the seal with the splines on the new shaft. You auto parts store should have them, or if you have help to support the shaft, you can sneak the splines through the seal very carefully.
The clunk you're hearing may be the inner CV joint, it's properly called a "Tripod" joint, and they'll clunk and thunk as you get on and off the throttle...like a bad U-Joint of old.
And as George and Lucky pointed out, check everything including the LCA bushings.
But the leakage from the seal does mean it'll have to come all the way out. When the splines dragged across the seal, they did it in.
At this point, especially considering the mileage you have on it, go for a remanufactured half shaft in addition to a new seal.
There is a small seal protection tool available to keep you from damaging the seal with the splines on the new shaft. You auto parts store should have them, or if you have help to support the shaft, you can sneak the splines through the seal very carefully.
The clunk you're hearing may be the inner CV joint, it's properly called a "Tripod" joint, and they'll clunk and thunk as you get on and off the throttle...like a bad U-Joint of old.
And as George and Lucky pointed out, check everything including the LCA bushings.
04-25-2014, 10:32 AM
#7
Join Date: 04-25-2014
Location: il
Posts: 2
frnt end
jack car up try to move wheel frm left to right then grab wheel try to move frm top to bottom on 06 it moved I got new control arms with ball joints and arm bushings all 1 unit at autozone $134.00 bucks 30 to 45 min fix in the drive way oh 2 center bolts on lower control I used a electric inpact wrench 1bolt on rear bushing 2 bolts for ball joints life time warranty did at about 100thousand miles 2nd time at about 205 thousand miles with that warranty 2nd time was free just my labor hope this helps you john
04-25-2014, 11:10 AM
#8
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,099
04-25-2014, 01:54 PM
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-04-2012
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 15
Is it supposed to be that far from the transmission? never seen a shaft coming that much out the distance between the inner joint and transmission is about 3 -4 cm (1.5 inches)
The O-ring gasket should not be exposed like that here is a closer look:
The O-ring gasket should not be exposed like that here is a closer look: