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CV joints or brakes issue !?

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Old 04-25-2014, 02:34 PM
  #11  
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Just checked the other side, same space in between the joint and transmission, no oil leaks. I'll probably find out on Monday, what needs to be changed, for now, definitely the gasket :)
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:08 PM
  #12  
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Just for comparison. This is a shot of my right axle on my SS 5 speed.
Even harder to figure out since you can't compare it to the other side.
Attachment 16129

Here's the left side.
Attachment 16130

Last edited by firemangeorge; 05-30-2014 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:03 PM
  #13  
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That is clean!!! I feel ashamed with all the oil and dirt, to my defense we had a rough winter here in Canada, definitely need to clean mine.

See how close your left inner CV joint is to the transmission, (the short one that actually has a housing and is a proper CV) LOL. I thought is the same with the automatic.

Just found a company here in Toronto that has a reman shaft for $100,- in exchange for the old one, if the CV is gone I'll go with a new reman full shaft instead of just replacing the inner/outer one... I'll keep you guys posted.

BTW GM asked $240 only to diagnose the issue, was with the car already inside the shop, I gently backed up and just drove away :), Sorry maybe next time...
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Old 04-25-2014, 05:10 PM
  #14  
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The axles on an auto are the same, however, there is an extension on one side IIRC the passenger side. If the axle has been replaced before, it is possible that the extension was removed improperly and re installed in a broken state that MIGHT cause a clunk. (done that). Don't even ask how much a new one costs, you can't afford it.

Seals do weep, if they are not dripping relax. My pass. side weeps a bit. Could also be caused by an over fill of ATF.

As for the spline protector; just use both hands to insert the new axle. They are not needed.

Reman is the way to go! In the US they go for around $90. Be sure to count the bellows on the rubber boots to make sure they are the same as you took off, or you will have a split boot in short order
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:53 AM
  #15  
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Just received a call from the shop, good news it's not the CV joint, the disc is hitting the caliper !? that's all they told me and advised to take it back to whoever did the brakes :) - I'll take it from here...

Why only when turning all the way left ??? the brakes are in now way linked to the steering !

... and they said there is nothing to worry about that leak, it's minor ...
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:08 PM
  #16  
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Interesting.....so it goes all the way back to Post #4....
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:20 PM
  #17  
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Yeap Snoopy, this weekend I'll take it apart again, see what I did wrong. They told me the rotor is not damaged there are just some rub marks on it on the inside surface.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:04 PM
  #18  
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It would make me VERY nervous driving knowing I had a problem with my brakes like that - I'd be ripping it apart asap to get to the bottom of it.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:53 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by whopper
It would make me VERY nervous driving knowing I had a problem with my brakes like that - I'd be ripping it apart asap to get to the bottom of it.
Me too, so I checked it yesterday myself.


The problem is this: I painted the brackets and it moved the bracket to close to the rotor the paint acted as a washer , so the slight play in the bearing made the rotor touch the pad guides and because of the grooves on the rotor I had the thumping noise. I'm talking about microns here ...

If the rotor did not have the grooves I would not know about this.

It grinded enough so it does not touch anymore now the noise is gone it was directly proportional to the load on the wheel/bearing, normal play in the bearing and no noise from the bearing.

The rub mark on the disk cannot be felt when going over with my finger.

The good news is I don't have the noise anymore no matter how hard I turn or put pressure on the right wheel.

Regardless, I'll take it apart over the weekend just for my peace of mind.




Last edited by mateiux; 04-29-2014 at 05:51 PM.
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