In the US passenger side is RIGHT. The "cup" is held on by a circlip, you just need something to defeat the clip without damaging anything. I used an exhaust clamp and a small hammer, be inventive.

If they are not leaking let them alone!

 

It is customary and advisable to replace the output shaft cups and seals when you replace the cv axles. If they are not leaking, and you just replaced them 2 months ago, then it’s your decision and you can probably just replace the cv axles.

apply grease to the splines and the outer surface where the axles go into the seals. As you saw in the video, just remove the ball joint pinch bolt and separate the ball joint from the knuckle, and separate the tie rod end . To gain the room to remove the cv axle. Make sure the circlip is positioned with the opening to the bottom of the output shaft.

the axle nut is a 30 mm , it is torqued to 155 ft lbs.
ball joint pinch bolt is torqued to 37 ft lbs then backed off 3/4 of a turn , then torqued again to 37 ft lbs and then tightened an additional 30 degrees. As for the tie rod nut torque, it’s 44 ft lbs it’s an 18 mm

 

So it looks like just having 2 axelshaft seal kits on hand might be a good idea just incase I nick something in the process. Would it be useful to own snap ring pliers or would that be a waste of money? I'm mostly concerned about that output shaft coming out with the axel, is there a know way to prevent that or will I just have to deal with it?

Edit: I appreciate all your help Oldblue!

 

I’ve replaced axles in several HHR’s and a couple of Cobalts, never have had the stub shaft come out with the cv axle.
expanding flat blade snap ring pliers are a help,



or dental pick tool


to work the snap ring out.

 

Awesome! I'll probably get a pick set from harbor freight a pick set might be a bit more versatile than the pliers. I really appreciate all the help and personal tips you all provide! Thank you!

 

Another video , different removal method


and a crude explanation of if the stub shaft comes out, now this guy doesn’t replace the cup seal but definitely should have. I would suggest replacing the outer seal and install the cup seal on the stub shaft , then install the stub shaft and cup seal assembly into the transmission and tap it into place with a block of wood and mallet or dead blow hammer, then install the outer axle seal, I tapped mine in with an ABS 1 1/2 inch plumbing coupler and a 24 inch length of ABS drain pipe . Then install the cv axle

 

To push the cup seal onto the stub shaft on either side



a member here indicated he used a 27 mm 12 point , 1/2 inch drive socket .

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

There is very little chance of nicking the seal, just pay attention to what you are doing. It is not "rocket science", just run of the mill square holes and round pegs. The only thing to worry about is: don't try to pull on the axle outside of the slip joint; only at the arrow.

 

I have had success with the pry bar method, be patient and it will pop out.

 

Got it, i should be able to take a crack at it some time in the next 2 weeks. I'll make sure post am update on how it goes