RJ_RS_SS_350

Ok, fob#3 doing the same thing, I give up. I cannot recommend the product. However, the customer service from both Summit and Dorman has been top notch.

donbrew

I wonder if it has anything to do with OnStar?
It may have something to do with the BCM interface with OnStar?
I don't know how to safely remove OnStar.


What does the VOM show for the battery? Do you have any after-market equipment? Are any of the wires to the DLC messed with? Any metallic stuff on the roof or head liner?

RJ_RS_SS_350

I do have the red light on, far right of mirror, I think that has to do with OnStar?

It's not the battery, my original fob works with the same battery, and I have tried 4 new batteries. I'll try to find my meter, though.
Only aftermarket stuff is an amp and subwoofer, installed as in this thread https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/audi...ium-sys-10944/
Haven't messed with any wires, other than the amp. No rodent problem.
No metallic stuff.

The tech at Dorman said the only thing other than low frequency, would be if there was a code, but there are no codes. Hard to imagine 3 in a row are defective, but someone else had the same experience, IIRC.

I'm going to try an ACDelco unit.

donbrew

What I am thinking is the low speed data lines are getting confused. OnStar can unlock the car via the same data lines as the RCDLR.


One of the things GM warns about is anything that might interfere with the low speed data bus, that is usually anything that attaches to the DLC. OnStar is connected to the DLC somehow, that's how it can get OBD2 fault codes.


Maybe there is a way to unplug OnStar without going into anti-theft mode.
WikiHow says you can just unplug the 3 cables from the box. You could try pulling fuse #24 on the BCM, that should do the same as unplugging the unikt.

06REDSEDANDELIVERY

got the Dorman Keyless entry remote to replace the last one that broke. (one fried)

I took 2 minutes for the programmer to beep, held the buttons another 2 minutes then another beep - doesn't work. Tried 3 times = no go ....

It's a 2006 - one of the first with 2.4 and all options + remote start.

I was able to repair one factory remote, the other fried when the battery holder shifted - it actually got hot...

Thank Goodness I purchased the $3 5 year warrantee on the remote = back it goes on Amazon Prime..

Just have to get the GREASE out and go to CHEVY.

donbrew

Are you also registered as "2006redsedandelivery"?

I would make sure that the cigarette lighter fuse was good before I started blaming things. #30 under hood

RJ_RS_SS_350

The programmer does erase the old fobs, found out the hard way. Just sent back the 3rd dorman fob, same low fob battery issue. Now using a new ACDelco, no issue so far. Will update in a few days.

06REDSEDANDELIVERY

All fuses are good, I even tried their if it's unsuccessful programing - sent Dorman an E Mail... It's one of the first HHR's. low vin#.

The alarm by pass did not work either - when you use the key to open the door.. Had to pull the horn fuse and pull the alarm horn's wire. The flashers kept coming on - on the way home. Reset all after I soldered the battery holder back in.
Wanted a second remote for when the repaired one finally dies - for good,
There are no trouble codes in the Computer..

Oldblue

GM didn’t release the HHR as a panel until 2007 model year.
Panels have a different FOB, perhaps that’s the issue.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_HHR

donbrew

"the alarm's horn wire"?????

Evidently you have an after market system installed. There is no "alarm bypass" or dedicated "alarm horn wire". That is all handled by the BCM and RCDLR, not any external parts.

If you lock with the fob then unlock with the key the horn starts honking; it is turned back off by inserting the key into the ignition and starting the engine.

The horn and lights are supposed to turn off after 2 minutes.