Engine Removal step by step
04-21-2018, 11:38 AM
#21
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,693
How much more specific do I need to be?
The arrows ALWAYS (it is a convention) point TOWARD the FRONT OF THE CAR. as I noted that is the harmonic balancer, sometimes called the crankshaft pulley, which is on the front of the ENGINE. The FRONT OF THE ENGINE is on the passenger side, i.e. where you would find the #1 cylinder and the timing chain and the serpentine belt.
Beside that; the axle is behind the engine, if you have never noticed. The torque converter lives on the REAR of the ENGINE.
OK, more precisely the arrow always points in the forward direction of the car, sometimes it can be from the front but pointing in the forward direction.
The arrows ALWAYS (it is a convention) point TOWARD the FRONT OF THE CAR. as I noted that is the harmonic balancer, sometimes called the crankshaft pulley, which is on the front of the ENGINE. The FRONT OF THE ENGINE is on the passenger side, i.e. where you would find the #1 cylinder and the timing chain and the serpentine belt.
Beside that; the axle is behind the engine, if you have never noticed. The torque converter lives on the REAR of the ENGINE.
OK, more precisely the arrow always points in the forward direction of the car, sometimes it can be from the front but pointing in the forward direction.
Last edited by donbrew; 04-21-2018 at 12:13 PM.
04-21-2018, 11:52 AM
#22
Moderator
Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 7,808
How much more specific do I need to be?
The arrows ALWAYS (it is a convention) point TOWARD the FRONT OF THE CAR. as I noted that is the harmonic balancer, sometimes called the crankshaft pulley, which is on the front of the ENGINE. The FRONT OF THE ENGINE is on the passenger side, i.e. where you would find the #1 cylinder and the timing chain and the serpentine belt.
Beside that; the axle is behind the engine, if you have never noticed. The torque converter lives on the REAR of the ENGINE.
The arrows ALWAYS (it is a convention) point TOWARD the FRONT OF THE CAR. as I noted that is the harmonic balancer, sometimes called the crankshaft pulley, which is on the front of the ENGINE. The FRONT OF THE ENGINE is on the passenger side, i.e. where you would find the #1 cylinder and the timing chain and the serpentine belt.
Beside that; the axle is behind the engine, if you have never noticed. The torque converter lives on the REAR of the ENGINE.
04-22-2018, 02:08 PM
#24
New Member
Join Date: 07-02-2015
Location: VA
Posts: 23
Engine is out. Thanks for the assistance. On another note, I was going to swap the exhaust manifolds, as my current is in better shape. First bolt, snapped off in the head. I've been working on removal, then switched to retapping, since yesterday. Haven't had much success. Anyone experienced a similar problem? I know snapping of manifold bolts is common. I'm thinking about moving on and leaving the bolt out. Think I'll have exhaust leak problems, leaving a single bolt out? It's the bottom bolt, closest to passenger side. I'm not looking for "best" policies, I'm asking is it likely to leak?
04-24-2018, 09:49 AM
#26
New Member
Join Date: 07-02-2015
Location: VA
Posts: 23
Old Motor
Old Motor
New Motor (95k G5)
Hoist.
Adding oil.
02-19-2020, 09:42 AM
#29
New Member
Join Date: 02-19-2020
Location: Ca
Posts: 12
Flywheel to Torque Converter bolts removal
All,
I’m doing an engine (2.2 l) out the top replacement and need some tricks of the trade on removing the flywheel to torque converter (3) bolts. I’m stuck for now. 1) what size are the bolts? 2) what tool did you use to fit the tight space to get on the bolts ( deepwells hit engine, 3/8 rotational drive head with socket seem to be the best option)? 3) how did you hold the crank to stop it from rotating and still remove the fly-torque bolts?
i have attached a video showing complicated angle/access, if u’d like to view.
thank you
I’m doing an engine (2.2 l) out the top replacement and need some tricks of the trade on removing the flywheel to torque converter (3) bolts. I’m stuck for now. 1) what size are the bolts? 2) what tool did you use to fit the tight space to get on the bolts ( deepwells hit engine, 3/8 rotational drive head with socket seem to be the best option)? 3) how did you hold the crank to stop it from rotating and still remove the fly-torque bolts?
i have attached a video showing complicated angle/access, if u’d like to view.
thank you
02-19-2020, 10:08 AM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-03-2010
Location: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Posts: 3,564
1) Do you mean what size socket to use ?
2) Try any combination that works
3) Have someone hold the crankshaft bolt on the other end of the engine.
Good luck with the repair.
2) Try any combination that works
3) Have someone hold the crankshaft bolt on the other end of the engine.
Good luck with the repair.
Last edited by Oldblue; 02-19-2020 at 10:17 AM. Reason: Quotes not required