How much more specific do I need to be?

The arrows ALWAYS (it is a convention) point TOWARD the FRONT OF THE CAR. as I noted that is the harmonic balancer, sometimes called the crankshaft pulley, which is on the front of the ENGINE. The FRONT OF THE ENGINE is on the passenger side, i.e. where you would find the #1 cylinder and the timing chain and the serpentine belt.

Beside that; the axle is behind the engine, if you have never noticed. The torque converter lives on the REAR of the ENGINE.

OK, more precisely the arrow always points in the forward direction of the car, sometimes it can be from the front but pointing in the forward direction.

 

OK, yeah I see it now. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Looks like there are 2 bolts connecting the engine oil pan to the trans.

 

Engine is out. Thanks for the assistance. On another note, I was going to swap the exhaust manifolds, as my current is in better shape. First bolt, snapped off in the head. I've been working on removal, then switched to retapping, since yesterday. Haven't had much success. Anyone experienced a similar problem? I know snapping of manifold bolts is common. I'm thinking about moving on and leaving the bolt out. Think I'll have exhaust leak problems, leaving a single bolt out? It's the bottom bolt, closest to passenger side. I'm not looking for "best" policies, I'm asking is it likely to leak?

 

It is likely to leak. They are torqued to 10-11 lb ft. must have been done by someone after market.

With the motor out it should be fairly easy to drill and EZ out.

 

I drilled it, but not too successful on getting good threads, however, some were made. I was able to get a bolt to hold. Put everything back together, and started up on first turn. No check engine lights and runs like a brand new engine. 95k miles out of a G5.




Old Motor



Old Motor





New Motor (95k G5)





Hoist.



Adding oil.

 

Good job - Well done.

 

Nice job!

 

All,
I’m doing an engine (2.2 l) out the top replacement and need some tricks of the trade on removing the flywheel to torque converter (3) bolts. I’m stuck for now. 1) what size are the bolts? 2) what tool did you use to fit the tight space to get on the bolts ( deepwells hit engine, 3/8 rotational drive head with socket seem to be the best option)? 3) how did you hold the crank to stop it from rotating and still remove the fly-torque bolts?
i have attached a video showing complicated angle/access, if u’d like to view.
thank you

 

1) Do you mean what size socket to use ?
2) Try any combination that works
3) Have someone hold the crankshaft bolt on the other end of the engine.
Good luck with the repair.