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Front End Alignment

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Old 01-01-2019, 07:37 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by guppy
Well it is at pepboys right now. I am so perturbed with this little issue that I paid for the lifetime alignment ($150). I hope you are not right, but it is definitely a possibility. I have been having problems with a tire holding air at speeds over 75mph, so all tires are a tad over inflated (38-40psi), I never thought about that being an issue. My mexican tire shop never could fix the tire. The wife talked me into taking it to her tire guy, they are from the Middle East, he could not find the leak either, so he changed the valve stem and the tire issue has been resolved, . I put it to the test this past weekend driving to Houston. I'll put all the tires back to 35psi as soon as I get it home. I did however order a cool digital air gauge/chuck (eBay $12) last week.

Need to submerse the entire rim and tire assembled and see if there is any porosity in the rim. I've had that happen on a couple aluminum rims on my big wreckers and I know its not uncommon.
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:42 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue

Just got hot tanked, bead blasted, and powdercoated. No rust.

Those look really nice!
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:25 AM
  #23  
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Winter fashion rims! Thanks
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Old 01-05-2019, 02:51 PM
  #24  
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A lot of questionable information in this thread:

First, and by far most importantly, does it really pull? (aka, lead you in the wrong direction). Most likely not,
If not, is it that the steering wheel is not centered while rolling down the road?

Your Service Techs will love it if you can make the call between the two. I deal with this all the time at work.

Camber has nothing to do with it. Caster could, but unless you've bent something, it isn't adjustable. What you are left with is Toe, which affects centering and tracking.
This is adjustable, and all you need to do is properly describe the condition as a steering wheel off center.

Actual pulls are rare, but are usually caused by bad tires, where a belt has slipped within the tires. Bad potholes can also do this, as well as manufacturing defects.

But, for the driver, this vehicle has been driven for years, what has changed? That's where we in Warranty and Service start. Unless one side is near flat, a pull is not due to tire pressures.


Yes, I do Chassis Warranty in my paid time, but not for GM.
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Old 01-05-2019, 04:02 PM
  #25  
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I will contest your tire pressure statement. My personal experience has been 2-5 PSI low in the RF does A. lead to the right and B. pull to the right upon braking/acceleration.

More rubber on the road = more traction/drag.

I don't think this is an alignment problem; more likely worn suspension parts. Or over sensitive driver.
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Old 01-05-2019, 04:56 PM
  #26  
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Based on Guppys' earlier reply....

.When did you first notice this issue and was it ever OK since you owned this HHR. It was fine when I first bought the car (Jan 2016)

I think you can discount his over sensitivity and appears the issue was also there before and after the New Tire installation.
That leads me to Front end alignment, Worn front end parts, Front hub, Right front brake issue.

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Old 01-05-2019, 04:59 PM
  #27  
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LCA bushings, damaged steering rack, inner tie rod ends.
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:28 PM
  #28  
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:40 PM
  #29  
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Did that make it noticeably better ??

SF
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:02 PM
  #30  
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I understand how the front caster & camber can be changed by adjusting the toe.

How in the world can changing the front toe affect the REAR camber & toe?

They did not touch the rear unless they charged you a lot of money for shims and labor.

Looks like the toe was out pretty good
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