Getting ready to trade this stupid POS car in...
What is your coolant level at?
You may have a blown head gasket or a leak.
Add coolant until reservoir is full. If you overfill it, it will puke it out so don't worry. Seems like a coolant issue to me.
Once we find this is the culprit, we can troubleshoot as to WHY it occurred.
You may have a blown head gasket or a leak.
Add coolant until reservoir is full. If you overfill it, it will puke it out so don't worry. Seems like a coolant issue to me.
Once we find this is the culprit, we can troubleshoot as to WHY it occurred.
The fan shouldn't stop you from getting warm air... I wouldn't think.
Could be the blend door.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...1&postcount=11
Could be the blend door.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...1&postcount=11
Temperature Valve Actuator Replacement Removal Procedure
Important: The key should be in the OFF position when connecting the electrical connectors to ensure proper calibration.
- Remove the fuse labeled HVAC CTRL (BATT).
- Remove the knee bolster reinforcement.
Attachment 8215 - Disconnect the air temperature actuator electrical connector.
Attachment 8216 - Remove the air temperature actuator screws.
Attachment 8217 - Remove the air temperature actuator.
Important: The key should be in the OFF position when connecting the electrical connectors to ensure proper calibration.
- Install the air temperature actuator.
- Install the air temperature actuator screws.
- Tighten the screws to 2.2 N·m (19 lb in).
- Install the air temperature actuator electrical connector.
- Install the knee bolster reinforcement.
- Install the fuse labeled HVAC CTRL (BATT).
Important: Do not adjust any controls on the HVAC control assembly while the HVAC control assembly and actuators are calibrating. If interrupted improper HVAC performance will result. - Start the engine and let run for one minute.
I read that the PCM does the fan control. The PCM takes inputs from the AC system and the coolant temp sensor and determines when to turn on the fan.
It may not be on always, since the AC system dries the air for the defroster... may not need to run cooling fan always since it would be counterproductive in colder temperatures.
You should be able to jumper the relay to test the fan itself... then work your way back.
It may not be on always, since the AC system dries the air for the defroster... may not need to run cooling fan always since it would be counterproductive in colder temperatures.
You should be able to jumper the relay to test the fan itself... then work your way back.
@Chevy13, I know that you are extremely upset with your situation with your HHR. I have read through the thread and see that the dealership wanted to charge you $90.00 diagnostic fee. Please, do not take what I am about to post as a slam or offensive. If you were to take the vehicle to the dealership you would have to pay the $90.00 diagnostic fee, but there are dealerships out there that will apply this fee to the cost of the repair.
So, lets say that you took the vehicle into the dealership and they diagnosed the issue. They fix it for you and with you taking this avenue to have them fix the issue then you should have the 12 month/ 12,000 mile parts and labor warranty.
Like I said, I am not trying to make the situation worse, but just trying to give another avenue for you. I apologize if my two cents has upset you more.
Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service
So, lets say that you took the vehicle into the dealership and they diagnosed the issue. They fix it for you and with you taking this avenue to have them fix the issue then you should have the 12 month/ 12,000 mile parts and labor warranty.
Like I said, I am not trying to make the situation worse, but just trying to give another avenue for you. I apologize if my two cents has upset you more.
Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service
If it's still acting the same, then it very well could be the PCM.


