Crispy94

was having some ac issues. Anytime I would turn it on the clutch would make noise and the car would 'overheat'. Also the fan would not turn on. So we replaced the fan, used, made sure fan worked too with the battery. Still wouldn't turn on. We regrounded the wire and checked all the fuses and relays the best we could, now the car won't start. It started with a engine power reduced and a check engine light. So we 'reset the ecm" and those light went off but now the airbag light is on in the dic and still no start and we had disconnected the battery before anything. Rado come on tho..please help.

firemangeorge

Have you checked the battery voltage ? HHR's are very finicky when the voltage is low. They have been known to throw out electrical glitches because of this.

Fwiw. Never reset the CEL without pulling the codes. The codes tell you it senses something wrong and they could point you to what needs fixing.

Crispy94

I'm not sure if it is the battery itself we hooked jumper cables to the back battery and still nothing. The fuel pump isnt coming in either. But my husband jumped the relay switch and it has power as well as the other relays. Unfortunately we haven't gotten ahold of a voltage meter so it's making this very difficult.

donbrew

Did you repair your broken A/C? Either the clutch is bad or the compressor is bad, either one could stop the engine from turning.

You can get a DVOM from places like HomeDespot and Advance Auto for less than $10. Sound like a dead battery is one of the problems, it would help a bunch to know the codes.

Year, model & mileage would help.

Crispy94

Sorry I did forget to mention what kind of car. It's an 08 chevy hhr.
Update. Finally got the car to start the bolts on the fuse box were loose. No I didn't exactly fix my ac problem. Not all the way. We replaced the radiator fan and now the ac clutch no longer makes noise but the fan still wont come on. And there seems to be high pressure in the lines. We set a wire on the relay for the fan and it kicked on no problem, so would that mean a bad relay?

donbrew

It would mean a bad A/C.

Does the fan come on when the coolant gets to 220F?

Crispy94

Ok, I appreciate the help man. Back in april we did a full engine swap with an 08 colbolt, it did sit for about a year and a half. The odometer says it has about 109,000 but when we did the swap it had about..idk id say maybe 180,000, for some reason it changed itself. But the rest of the car I'd say has about 200,000 on it now. And no I cant get tbe darn thing to go back over 198 now. So we cant even check if it comes on normally. I can maybe try and drive around very slow and get back to you on that, but everytime I rev it or drive faster than 35 it cools back down, I think because of the thermostat. Im thinking about just hooking up a toggle switch to the fan. What do you think about that?

donbrew

You have the wrong or no t-stat for starters. Get an AC-Delco 180F t-stat.

Did you forget to mention the CEL for a p0128? That's why the A/C doesn't work.

The odometer data is stored in the BCM, I doubt it just changed itself.

Crispy94

I don't have any kind of code runner. The ac does get cold tho, but only when I'm driving at faster speeds. And there is def a t-stat in there, my husband did the engine swap himself. And we've never changed it. And dude I aint kidding the odometer changed itself. Idk how but it did. Lol

donbrew

Cobalt t-stat is different temp, or bad. They stick open, that causes the engine to not get hot quick enough for the computer, that causes the A/C to not run.

Lots of folks think they are smarter than the folks that designed the car and put different temp t-stats in. It MUST be 180F. And the rubber inner gasket does deteriorate and get stuck in the valve, which holds it open, which is the same as not having a t-stat.

Regarding the toggle switch; do you think you are smarter than the computer. If you do, go ahead.

If the odometer did change; good luck with the DMV.